Gun5

iTrader: (37)

had a quick question I run 10-30 regular castrol right now its pretty loud at startup until oil gets up top.. I was thinking 5-10 with a quart of lucas stab think that combo would work pretty good?

jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

I don't like raising threads from the dead but I figured it would be better than starting a new one.

I want to try Mobil 1 5w-40 on my next oil change. My AutoZone is saying that this oil is turbo diesel truck motor oil. Can I use this on my Camaro or is this the wrong Mobil 1 5W-40 to use?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

fleetmgr

Never, ever adulterate your oil with an additive of any kind. All you will do is dilute the additive package that is already built into the oil, and possibly damage that same additive package.
If your engine is basically stock, use what Chevy says to use for viscosity.

fleetmgr

Most 5W-40's that I'm aware of are intended for diesels.

fleetmgr

The startup protection is governed more by the boundary layer properties than by the viscosity. True quality oils (not commodity oils) are MUCH better at this than you might think. It's really not a problem until you get below 0c.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

in terms of viscosity probably somewhat close,
this is exactly how an oil with whatever desired viscosity is made, by blending different viscosity base stock oils. In your case you're blending finished product but generally the same thing will happen, no need to you glorify it and make it more complicated than it needs to be with equations.
what would throw the math off is the additives in the finished 10w-30 and 20w-50 oils primarily the viscosity index improvers which give the 10w-30 it's 10w and the 20w-50 its 20w.

it is fine to mix any API rated engine oil you can find on the shelf, you are not going to hurt anything.

been running 15w-40 in my 02ss for the past 5 ******* years and I am in CT and have oil analysis to back it up so spare me the "OMG why" bullshit
and the only reason i'm replying here is because i am changing the oil in my 05 altima and that is also getting 15w-40, I hope it gives everyone a sleepless night

stop getting all your lubrication knowledge from forums, go to more reputable sources such as noria and machinerylubrication.

Mr Incredible

To the resurrection question, I have used that oil in my Camaro with good analysis numbers. I've also used the thinnest 5w-30 (both conventional and synthetic) with about the same analysis numbers. It all works in stock cars that are abused very much. If you abuse your car you might want a bit thicker 5 or 10w-30w. If you really, really abuse your car you might want to use a 5w-40.

As to the original portion of the thread... If you have a built motor, use what the builder tells you. His is the opinion that matters.

If you HAVE to mix oils, you would be able to mix oils that are from the same maker without much worries. The add packs would likely be the same. The problems (might) occur when using oils from different makers. The add packs may not be compatible. It isn't real likely, but it's possible. However, with all the different cans of oil out there, SURELY a person can find the right one without mixing them together. You'd have to be pretty oil smart to really, truly understand what you are doing and why...rather than doing something that FEELS like it's the right thing to do.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Don't put so much thought into oil, its all bullshit. As long as you keep it clean, as in 3,000 mile oil/filter changes, there is absolutely NOTHING one oil will do over another. Either non-synthetic or sythetic.

My 427ci stroker motor is right at 140,000 miles and going strong, never had a single issue yet.

All its ever had, from day one, is the cheapest, crap Castrol GTX NON-synthetic regular friggin cheap *** oil....20w50 only. Purolator filters. My oil changes are like $15.00 each. My oil pressure on start-up is 60psi and rarely ever drops below 39psi, unless its a very very hot 95* day in city traffic.

You will waste your money on all that exspensive synthetic crap and you will get absolutely nothing in return, that cheaper regular oil won't provide you. I have many friends through the years that use synthetic oils and super duper oil filters....their engines get rebuilds after 40,000-50,000 miles. Makes me laugh.

3,000 mile oil/filter changes...there's nothing more you can do, unless you want to change it earlier....lol

Clean oil is the key to longevity......not the brand, type or weight. (buy don't totally use the wrong weight for your type engine.)

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