Does 10-30 plus 20-50 equal 15-40
#4
Originally Posted by SHINER
Do NOT ever mix oils!
The oil is synthetic and the same brand if that makes any difference.
Please enlighten me............!!!!!!!
DH
#5
Originally Posted by JohnnyC
No, and the reasons why involve equations that I do not want to even think about getting into.
It would have to be thicker than 10 at the low range and less than 50 at the high end.....wouldn't it????
DH
#7
Tech Resident
no, because they all have different properties. for example, mobil 1's 40 weight series is much better than its 30 weight series. you'll be mixing different additives, different base crude, possibly different groups (group I, group II, group III, group IV, group V), plus they all run at different CST's. it's nothing but a big mess. mixing oil is a BAD IDEA. PERIOD.
btw, why would anyone EVER want to run a 15W-40, especially in an LS1? can you say "no startup protection" and "never starts in the cold"?
btw, why would anyone EVER want to run a 15W-40, especially in an LS1? can you say "no startup protection" and "never starts in the cold"?
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#9
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
no, because they all have different properties. for example, mobil 1's 40 weight series is much better than its 30 weight series. you'll be mixing different additives, different base crude, possibly different groups (group I, group II, group III, group IV, group V), plus they all run at different CST's. it's nothing but a big mess. mixing oil is a BAD IDEA. PERIOD.
btw, why would anyone EVER want to run a 15W-40, especially in an LS1? can you say "no startup protection" and "never starts in the cold"?
btw, why would anyone EVER want to run a 15W-40, especially in an LS1? can you say "no startup protection" and "never starts in the cold"?
Also I am in SoCal ...... so cold = 40* F
And this is a stroked 402 which is not really a factory LS1 in clearance specs.
And the builder recommeded 15-50 Mobil1
DH
#10
Originally Posted by staringback05
WTF?~!.....who comes up with this crap?...choco handle this oil issue, just thinking about that gave me a headache....
thatd be like giving midgets stilts and telling them to post up jordan....that **** just aint gonna happen
thatd be like giving midgets stilts and telling them to post up jordan....that **** just aint gonna happen
DH
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Originally Posted by dirty howie
So you recommend Mobil 10-40 (correct me if I'm wrong) but feel 15-40 is too thick???
Also I am in SoCal ...... so cold = 40* F
And this is a stroked 402 which is not really a factory LS1 in clearance specs.
And the builder recommeded 15-50 Mobil1
DH
Also I am in SoCal ...... so cold = 40* F
And this is a stroked 402 which is not really a factory LS1 in clearance specs.
And the builder recommeded 15-50 Mobil1
DH
#12
Originally Posted by SHINER
I think you could get away with a 20W-50, especially if your living in sunny California!
Then when the weather recently changed my oil consumption went up. I had a leakdown/compression test and all was good.
Tony at AFR suggested that a possible explanation would be (this is not his words) that some tilt in piston/rings could be sucking extra thick oil off cylinder walls.
Thanks for confirming that I am not a COMPLETE IMBACILE for using thicker oil
DH
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If a builder specs an oil weight then I guess that's what you should use. The ONLY oil brand I would mix weights with (within brand only) is Red Line. Reason being, they are one of the few (only??) brand(s) that DO NOT add viscosity index improvers/pour point depressants to any of their oils except for their 5W-40. Otherwise, the additive package is IDENTICAL across their whole multi-viscosity range (I confirmed this with their techs). So mixing weights is OK with Red Line.
#14
Tech Resident
Originally Posted by dirty howie
So you recommend Mobil 10-40 (correct me if I'm wrong) but feel 15-40 is too thick???
Also I am in SoCal ...... so cold = 40* F
And this is a stroked 402 which is not really a factory LS1 in clearance specs.
And the builder recommeded 15-50 Mobil1
DH
Also I am in SoCal ...... so cold = 40* F
And this is a stroked 402 which is not really a factory LS1 in clearance specs.
And the builder recommeded 15-50 Mobil1
DH
a 50 weight is far too thick IMO! i wouldn't want that clogging up my motor and causing huge oil pressure. i wouldn't run a 40 weight either if it's conventional oil. a 40 weight synthetic is fine because they seem to be thinner and have better flow properties. again, 5W or 0W is all you should run in these motors. 10W is too thick for startup and doesn't flow fast enough.
#15
Originally Posted by dailydriver
If a builder specs an oil weight then I guess that's what you should use. The ONLY oil brand I would mix weights with (within brand only) is Red Line. Reason being, they are one of the few (only??) brand(s) that DO NOT add viscosity index improvers/pour point depressants to any of their oils except for their 5W-40. Otherwise, the additive package is IDENTICAL across their whole multi-viscosity range (I confirmed this with their techs). So mixing weights is OK with Red Line.
DH
#16
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
i wouldn't recommend a 10W anything. there's no point in running a 10W in an LS1. all it does is starve the motor on startup. run a 5W or a 0W. the only oils i can honestly recommend are GC 0W-30 and mobil 1 5W-40. mobil 1 0W-40's okay, too. other than those three, i wouldn't put anything else in my engine. the last ~8,000 miles of my motor's life have been on GC 0W-30. i just switched to mobil 1 5W-40 for a comparison. i'll analyze both and run the better from here on out.
a 50 weight is far too thick IMO! i wouldn't want that clogging up my motor and causing huge oil pressure. i wouldn't run a 40 weight either if it's conventional oil. a 40 weight synthetic is fine because they seem to be thinner and have better flow properties. again, 5W or 0W is all you should run in these motors. 10W is too thick for startup and doesn't flow fast enough.
a 50 weight is far too thick IMO! i wouldn't want that clogging up my motor and causing huge oil pressure. i wouldn't run a 40 weight either if it's conventional oil. a 40 weight synthetic is fine because they seem to be thinner and have better flow properties. again, 5W or 0W is all you should run in these motors. 10W is too thick for startup and doesn't flow fast enough.
DH
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Originally Posted by staringback05
WTF?~!.....who comes up with this crap?...choco handle this oil issue, just thinking about that gave me a headache....
thatd be like giving midgets stilts and telling them to post up jordan....that **** just aint gonna happen
thatd be like giving midgets stilts and telling them to post up jordan....that **** just aint gonna happen
#19
Refilled with Mobil1 15-50 as originally recommended by builder.
Doesn't seem like anyone makes a 15-40 synthetic?????.....you can get 0-30, 0-40, 5-20, 10-30, 10-40, 20-50, and even 5-50....but not 15-40
At least I know I can run the **** out my car saturday at WSIR
DH
Doesn't seem like anyone makes a 15-40 synthetic?????.....you can get 0-30, 0-40, 5-20, 10-30, 10-40, 20-50, and even 5-50....but not 15-40
At least I know I can run the **** out my car saturday at WSIR
DH
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Originally Posted by dirty howie
Refilled with Mobil1 15-50 as originally recommended by builder.
Doesn't seem like anyone makes a 15-40 synthetic?????.....you can get 0-30, 0-40, 5-20, 10-30, 10-40, 20-50, and even 5-50....but not 15-40
At least I know I can run the **** out my car saturday at WSIR
DH
Doesn't seem like anyone makes a 15-40 synthetic?????.....you can get 0-30, 0-40, 5-20, 10-30, 10-40, 20-50, and even 5-50....but not 15-40
At least I know I can run the **** out my car saturday at WSIR
DH