jitsumania

iTrader: (4)

Before you tell me to do a forum search I will tell you that I already have. Heres the deal:
About 2 weeks ago I did a Cam and spring Swap (TSP Torquer 2 with PRC double springs, New valve seats, new Chromoly push rods and Titanium retainers). When we dropped the engine (easier than over the top swap) we found a part of the exhaust that had broken off near a rear hanger by the axle. Well, Installed and tuned (street tune, Dyno tune next week) the cam using EFI live(bwahahahaha). That went great. Then took the car to get the exhaust (magnaflow) fixed. Removed the defective section, welded the broken section back and reinstalled everything. The next day the car started to make this freakin chirping sound. Took it back to examine for exhaust leaks. Replaced the bands from headers to Y pipe, retightened header bolts as well as any clamp in the exhaust system. Freakin chirping still there. The chirping will ususally start 2-3 minute after car is fired up and driven. Will usually quit at WOT or maybe I just can't hear it, lol. Checked condition of the belts and they appear to be OK.
These are the things I found on the forum: Possible exhaust leak, possible tensioner gone bad, possible bent push rod or defective rocker. I sprayed both belts , serpentine and AC around the tensioners. When I sprayed the AC belt around the tensioner I got a little more prolonged relief but the sound came back. DAMN IT. Somebody help me please before I take a shotgun to this family of birds. Any and all suggestions welcome. It doesn't affect performance but is annoying as hell. Been thinking of Seafoaming the engine to see if that will help, but I just put Mobil 1 in after the swap$$$$$$. Post up Ya'll and give this F-bod Lover some help !!!!
Sorry for the long post.

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

Take a piece of hose about 2 to 3 feet long and hold one end up to your ear and use the other end to probe around the engine and the exhaust to see if you can narrow down the source of the squeak. If spraying the idler for the A/C made it quiet, try that again. You may need a new idler pulley with bearing. This may or may not have anything to do with the cam/spring swap.

Best of luck.

Steve

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

One of the pullies in the accesory drive system most likely.

keliente

iTrader: (22)

If you sprayed the a/c belt around the tensioner and it went away then it could be your problem. Take the a/c belt off and go drive it. If the noise is gone, then you know you have a bad pulley or a bad a/c belt.

keliente

iTrader: (22)

PS how long did it take you to drop the engine to swap a cam/springs?

jitsumania

iTrader: (4)

We originally tried to do the swap with the engine in but due to confinement in the cowl we just got frustrated ,especially with the rear springs so we decided to drop it. took about 2-21/2 hrs, but we had a lift so that made it easy. Glad we did it cause we decided to do AIR/EGR delete. also found some problems with a ruber coupler hose located in the rear of the engine in the PCV system that we would have never seen had we not dropped the engine. The dang thing was almost melted through. The dealership had a revamped system for the LS1 that eliminated that part.

Will try the suggestion to run w/o the AC belt and see what happen.

Did try scoping it but was not able to find anything unusual.

Keep posting up suggestions ya'll.