Hopped Curb: Odd squeeking sound and Alignment Problems
04-20-2007, 06:54 PM
#1
Hopped Curb: Odd squeeking sound and Alignment Problems Background:
Unfortunately on March 21st I hopped a curb in my Formula going about 30-35. Since then I've had nothing, but problems. I ended up having to get 2 new tires, killed both tie rod ends, and the inner boot on one side. I did the driver's side tie rod end and the inner boot on the passenger's side in my drive way, figured that was it. All I had to do was get it aligned. Take it to tire kingdom and get them to align it, still pulls to the left.
I figured that the other tie rod end was the cause and decided to replace that also. Go back to tire kingdom and get it aligned, still pulls to the left. The guy there told me that I needed new brake pads, rotors (I knew I needed new brakes), and that the tie rod ends might be defective. I asked him why he thought they were defective and he told me that when they put it up on the lift they could still move the wheel with steering wheel locked. Leave, except for now when I left I noticed a slight squeeking noise coming from the front driver's side wheel.
In the process of acquiring all of these parts from a local chevy dealership I've become acquainted with one of the parts guys. I decided to take it there and get it aligned correctly (or so I thought). Wednesday I drop it off around 11am. The service guy called told me that the castle nuts on the tie rods weren't tightened enough and we're majorly loose causing vibrations. Pick it up at 4 and the service guy asks me if I hit anything in it and that he noticed somethings were scratched up underneath. I told him I hopped a curb and he told me it was still going to pull to the left, but the vibrations should be gone. He also told me that the frame might have been damaged, take it to a body shop, and have it checked.
When I drove away and started checking it the left pull was worse, but the low speed vibrations were gone. It only started to shake the steering wheel around 60. At this point it's been close to a month now and I'm getting pretty pissed off. I call my friend in the parts department and ask him some questions. I asked him if it was possible if I bent a wheel bearing or a spindle. He said it was possible and asked me about the brakes. I told him that I was going to replace everything when I get more money. He told me that might be the cause of the spueeking sound. I told him that when I did the tie rod ends I replaced a broken wheel stud on the driver's side and noticed that it was very difficult to rotate the hub assembly compared to the passenger's side and that it was making a grinding noise coming from the caliper. He said that might be the most logical answer seeing as how it initially hit on the driver's side. That the caliper might be hanging up, which caused the brake pads on that side to wear extremely quickly and they're down to the wear indicators causing the squeeking sound.
Then this morning I had to slam on the brakes because this seacow in front of me wasn't paying attention in traffic and slammed on her brakes causing a 5 car tire skidding stop. When I hit the brakes it made this awful grinding noise scaring me even more.
Cliff notes:
-Hopped curb
- 2 new front tires
- 2 new tie rod ends
-1 new inner tie rod dust boot
- Replaced 1 previously broken wheel stud and one that was beginning to round off
Symptons:
- Squeeking sound coming from driver's side wheel area
- Upon examination, driver's side caliper making a grinding noise and difficult to turn when rotating hub assembly
- Major pull to the left
- Needs all new rotors (heat cracked) and pads
Questions:
- Does this sound like a caliper hanging up, messed up wheel bearing, or a combination of the two?
- Could it be a bent spindle?
- Is frame damage possible if it didn't bend any wheels or do anything, but pop both front tires?
- Any ways to particuarly diagnose these problems?
- I plan on ordering new rotors, pads, and SS lines next Friday or before if I get my tax return money. What all is needed to do this? I have a Chiltons book and gathered some supplies today, high temp grease, anti squeel compound, brake fluid, and brake cleaner. I searched and found people saying you need to replace certain bolts when doing this, but I'm not exactly sure which they were refering to.
- Any particular tips in doing this? Like using loctite on anything or any weird little quirks?
I found this while searching around here http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...er_rebuild.htm and it helps out some with the brakes thing.
Sorry, for the freakishly long background, but this has been going on for near a month now and I'm getting majorly sick of it. Thanks for the help.
Unfortunately on March 21st I hopped a curb in my Formula going about 30-35. Since then I've had nothing, but problems. I ended up having to get 2 new tires, killed both tie rod ends, and the inner boot on one side. I did the driver's side tie rod end and the inner boot on the passenger's side in my drive way, figured that was it. All I had to do was get it aligned. Take it to tire kingdom and get them to align it, still pulls to the left.
I figured that the other tie rod end was the cause and decided to replace that also. Go back to tire kingdom and get it aligned, still pulls to the left. The guy there told me that I needed new brake pads, rotors (I knew I needed new brakes), and that the tie rod ends might be defective. I asked him why he thought they were defective and he told me that when they put it up on the lift they could still move the wheel with steering wheel locked. Leave, except for now when I left I noticed a slight squeeking noise coming from the front driver's side wheel.
In the process of acquiring all of these parts from a local chevy dealership I've become acquainted with one of the parts guys. I decided to take it there and get it aligned correctly (or so I thought). Wednesday I drop it off around 11am. The service guy called told me that the castle nuts on the tie rods weren't tightened enough and we're majorly loose causing vibrations. Pick it up at 4 and the service guy asks me if I hit anything in it and that he noticed somethings were scratched up underneath. I told him I hopped a curb and he told me it was still going to pull to the left, but the vibrations should be gone. He also told me that the frame might have been damaged, take it to a body shop, and have it checked.
When I drove away and started checking it the left pull was worse, but the low speed vibrations were gone. It only started to shake the steering wheel around 60. At this point it's been close to a month now and I'm getting pretty pissed off. I call my friend in the parts department and ask him some questions. I asked him if it was possible if I bent a wheel bearing or a spindle. He said it was possible and asked me about the brakes. I told him that I was going to replace everything when I get more money. He told me that might be the cause of the spueeking sound. I told him that when I did the tie rod ends I replaced a broken wheel stud on the driver's side and noticed that it was very difficult to rotate the hub assembly compared to the passenger's side and that it was making a grinding noise coming from the caliper. He said that might be the most logical answer seeing as how it initially hit on the driver's side. That the caliper might be hanging up, which caused the brake pads on that side to wear extremely quickly and they're down to the wear indicators causing the squeeking sound.
Then this morning I had to slam on the brakes because this seacow in front of me wasn't paying attention in traffic and slammed on her brakes causing a 5 car tire skidding stop. When I hit the brakes it made this awful grinding noise scaring me even more.
Cliff notes:
-Hopped curb
- 2 new front tires
- 2 new tie rod ends
-1 new inner tie rod dust boot
- Replaced 1 previously broken wheel stud and one that was beginning to round off
Symptons:
- Squeeking sound coming from driver's side wheel area
- Upon examination, driver's side caliper making a grinding noise and difficult to turn when rotating hub assembly
- Major pull to the left
- Needs all new rotors (heat cracked) and pads
Questions:
- Does this sound like a caliper hanging up, messed up wheel bearing, or a combination of the two?
- Could it be a bent spindle?
- Is frame damage possible if it didn't bend any wheels or do anything, but pop both front tires?
- Any ways to particuarly diagnose these problems?
- I plan on ordering new rotors, pads, and SS lines next Friday or before if I get my tax return money. What all is needed to do this? I have a Chiltons book and gathered some supplies today, high temp grease, anti squeel compound, brake fluid, and brake cleaner. I searched and found people saying you need to replace certain bolts when doing this, but I'm not exactly sure which they were refering to.
- Any particular tips in doing this? Like using loctite on anything or any weird little quirks?
I found this while searching around here http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...er_rebuild.htm and it helps out some with the brakes thing.
Sorry, for the freakishly long background, but this has been going on for near a month now and I'm getting majorly sick of it. Thanks for the help.
04-20-2007, 07:10 PM
#2
If you hit a curb at 35 mph I would definitly get new wheel bearings installed and I cant think of a reason why your caliper would be messed up other than a bent caliper bracket making it bind up which is probably wearing out your pads very quickly.As far as the alignment goes your spindle is more then likely bent or the lower a-arm could also be bent. Im kinda surprised that none of these alignment shops thought to look closer at those items after you told them you hit something.
04-21-2007, 10:06 AM
#3
Originally Posted by EDS01SS
If you hit a curb at 35 mph I would definitly get new wheel bearings installed and I cant think of a reason why your caliper would be messed up other than a bent caliper bracket making it bind up which is probably wearing out your pads very quickly.As far as the alignment goes your spindle is more then likely bent or the lower a-arm could also be bent. Im kinda surprised that none of these alignment shops thought to look closer at those items after you told them you hit something.
