Cracked interior door panel...:( *DON'T QUOTE PICS!
#202
TECH Senior Member
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If you read this thread you will clearly see that the dealer can make several cases for not replacing them. Anything from user damage, to not being a wearable part, etc...
You should read the thread about the roof panels. The dealers can say and do numerous things to get out of repairs. A lot of it depends on the dealer and how you approach them.
You should read the thread about the roof panels. The dealers can say and do numerous things to get out of repairs. A lot of it depends on the dealer and how you approach them.
#209
12 Second Club
iTrader: (20)
I had my car for 4 weeks, bought it with only 14,000 miles. Now I got a crack all the way down too on the drivers side. WTF Is anyone pursuing this further. I'm all in. Where do I sign. email zekevelazquez@yahoo.com 708-870-5500
#215
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Location: THE BANDIT'S LAIR in Louisiana
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If the crack is not too long...like ALL the way down the panel. Its possible you can fix it. You just have to be good at applying the interior paint to the stressed area of the crack once it is back together to make it blend into the rest of the panel.
#216
i just did the repair today that BANDITCAR's posted (on page 8 of this thread) and it seemed to work. we will see if it holds up. I did it to the cracked side and the side that wasn't cracked to see if it helps it from not happening.
#217
I've got the same schtuff (cracks on both panels), and it has nothing to do with weather (I live in Florida). My drivers side is pretty bad and my passenger side is a white hairline (I purchased it like that with plans to buy new panels). I know absolutely nothing about these engines, but I do know the difference in sound between the way my doors close and the way my boyfriends do on his 01 Z28. (Maybe that's why their doors are covered in leather?) I think it's a flaw in the something inside that causes stress on the panel because mine sound very rough when they close.
#218
After reading these last few posts, it seems that people haven't read Bandit's post back on page 8. I am confident that he posts the EXACT cause of this problem, so rather than trying to reinvent the wheel, everyone should make sure to read his post. To reiterate a previous post that I made...
Per Bandit's instructions, I took my panels off and found that although both the inside and outside of my panels were discolored in the "soon-to-be" crack location, the crack had not started to form yet. When I removed the staples, as Bandit suggested, you could feel the pressure releasing from the plastic and the discoloration on the back of the panel decreased significantly. In fact, after removing the staples from the passenger side there was almost 3mm offset between the holes in the seal and holes in the panel. Over time, I am sure that the 3mm of pressure would have grown until the panels cracking point.
Rather than using copper wire to replace the staples, I took a slightly different approach. I carefully used a drill bit to open the staple holes slightly larger than they were. Then I used very small cable zip ties to go through the holes and come together beneath the door panel. I tightened them enough to hold the seal in place, but not so much that it doesn't allow enough flex for temperature change. They worked perfectly and I am so glad that I caught this before they cracked.
Per Bandit's instructions, I took my panels off and found that although both the inside and outside of my panels were discolored in the "soon-to-be" crack location, the crack had not started to form yet. When I removed the staples, as Bandit suggested, you could feel the pressure releasing from the plastic and the discoloration on the back of the panel decreased significantly. In fact, after removing the staples from the passenger side there was almost 3mm offset between the holes in the seal and holes in the panel. Over time, I am sure that the 3mm of pressure would have grown until the panels cracking point.
Rather than using copper wire to replace the staples, I took a slightly different approach. I carefully used a drill bit to open the staple holes slightly larger than they were. Then I used very small cable zip ties to go through the holes and come together beneath the door panel. I tightened them enough to hold the seal in place, but not so much that it doesn't allow enough flex for temperature change. They worked perfectly and I am so glad that I caught this before they cracked.
#219
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Thanks for the back up Rybo and good on you for altering the remount method to better suit your needs.
One of the reasons why I used the copper wire was because I had it handy and it was the first "fix" I thought to use.
One of the reasons why I used the copper wire was because I had it handy and it was the first "fix" I thought to use.
#220
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This happened on both my doors. The crack was so clean, all I did was remove the panel and use Locktite epoxy on the underside, clamo it together and wait. Came out great. If you'd never seen them before, you'd never notice them now.