LS1 - AC not blowing cold, need freon?
#2
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You can buy a recharge kit, but you need to find out why it's not cooling, (fuse, low charge, leak, is the compressor coming on, etc.) If the system has been open you'll need it put a vacuum pump on it before charging.
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First, you need to see if there is any refrigerant in it. You can do this by using an ac gauge kit you can but at “auto zone”
Charged… the car should have 30psi during on the low presser side when the AC is turned on max.
The high pressure side should have about six times that.
If not, you have a leak
I’m assuming you have an ls1 which has a V7 compressor which is notorious for leaking off the front main seal of the compressor. I think they sell a front main seal but its recommended you just buy a new compressor. I’ve personally and tried to buy just the seal and ended up at a dead end. Maybe someone else has had better luck.
While replacing compressor replace the accumulator also and obviously the orifice valve too.
make sure you run a vacuum on it for at least an hour like 2001NBMZ28 said
during vacuum -30 is perfect. you have no leaks
Charge and check for leaks!
If so
see if the compressor is getting turned on. You can hear it click, if it doesn’t then there’s a control wire issue. (Which probably isn't the case)Or the compressor has frozen up, which would probably break your belt. You can verify this by turning the inside of the compressor wheel, if its turning..
If the car hasn’t had AC for a while then your probably going to have some other leak issues.
I hope this gives you a better idea.
Charged… the car should have 30psi during on the low presser side when the AC is turned on max.
The high pressure side should have about six times that.
If not, you have a leak
I’m assuming you have an ls1 which has a V7 compressor which is notorious for leaking off the front main seal of the compressor. I think they sell a front main seal but its recommended you just buy a new compressor. I’ve personally and tried to buy just the seal and ended up at a dead end. Maybe someone else has had better luck.
While replacing compressor replace the accumulator also and obviously the orifice valve too.
make sure you run a vacuum on it for at least an hour like 2001NBMZ28 said
during vacuum -30 is perfect. you have no leaks
Charge and check for leaks!
If so
see if the compressor is getting turned on. You can hear it click, if it doesn’t then there’s a control wire issue. (Which probably isn't the case)Or the compressor has frozen up, which would probably break your belt. You can verify this by turning the inside of the compressor wheel, if its turning..
If the car hasn’t had AC for a while then your probably going to have some other leak issues.
I hope this gives you a better idea.
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Shouldn’t cost over 500 dollars if you don’t have any other problems. But I always expect the worse and hope for the best.
That is if you DIY
I have to take 2 showers a day if I don’t have AC, I sweat so much without it
That is if you DIY
I have to take 2 showers a day if I don’t have AC, I sweat so much without it
#6
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What part of SA you live in. I just replaced my entire system. Blows cold now. My compressor gave out. I had to replace the accumulator, condensor, compressor, orifice tube, cleaned out all the lines and all the freon and oil. Cost me a pretty penny, about $700. I did all the work myself. It was all parts.....
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lol fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck that. if i won't be able to just refill it with something then i'm going to take the damn thing out. that is too much money to be spending om something that takes up gas anyways.
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R-12 is not the only freon.. Any CFC is considered a Freon. First i would get a cheap little guage from autozone.. U hook that up and find if it has any R-134A in it. If it is reading 0psi, You will have to find where it is leaking. If there is no gas in it, the compressor is probably ok because the low pressure switch should have stopped it from coming on. Remember when looking for a leak, anywhere refrigerant leaks oil is right behind it always a sign of a leak. Now if there is plenty of gas in it and it still isnt coming on, thats where it can get tricky. Compressor locked up, bad switches, lots of things that i would dred working on. make sure the fuse isnt blow, and if it is there is a reason.
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If there is a big leak it will most likley be noticable. I do more commercial A/C work but we use Nitrogen to find leaks.. We have electronic leak detectors. We use trace gas (R22) and nitrogen to find leaks. You are talking lots of money for just the tools... Dye sets work but those are alot of bread too.
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Originally Posted by 87Lt1Monte
R-12 is not the only freon.. Any CFC is considered a Freon. First i would get a cheap little guage from autozone.. U hook that up and find if it has any R-134A in it. If it is reading 0psi, You will have to find where it is leaking. If there is no gas in it, the compressor is probably ok because the low pressure switch should have stopped it from coming on. Remember when looking for a leak, anywhere refrigerant leaks oil is right behind it always a sign of a leak. Now if there is plenty of gas in it and it still isnt coming on, thats where it can get tricky. Compressor locked up, bad switches, lots of things that i would dred working on. make sure the fuse isnt blow, and if it is there is a reason.
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Originally Posted by 87Lt1Monte
If there is a big leak it will most likley be noticable. I do more commercial A/C work but we use Nitrogen to find leaks.. We have electronic leak detectors. We use trace gas (R22) and nitrogen to find leaks. You are talking lots of money for just the tools... Dye sets work but those are alot of bread too.
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Man those leak detectors we have if you turn them on low and make sure the sponge in the tip is clean it will pick up the slightest leak.. Yes it is very touchy but works pretty good.
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Originally Posted by 87Lt1Monte
Man those leak detectors we have if you turn them on low and make sure the sponge in the tip is clean it will pick up the slightest leak.. Yes it is very touchy but works pretty good.
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Originally Posted by blkbird
Yeah, but it gets freaking hot down here.... Nice car by the way.
i know what you mean. i've been doing nothing but enjoying sweat as soon as i sit in my car here. nothing is more annoying than sweating just right after you cleaned up and showered. damnit.
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If you want to go on the cheap, you could do the following as a stop gap measure:
Buy the kit that contains the connector, a can of dye w/refigerant, and a 2nd can of refrigerant. Put both cans in, using the gauges as suggested in a previous post. This should get it working, if only for a short time. You can look for the dye, it may indicate where the leak(s) are. In the mean time, you could have A/C again. Having grown up in Houston, I know what you are going through. Again, this approach won't fix the problem, but it should not cost over 20-30 bucks to try.
Buy the kit that contains the connector, a can of dye w/refigerant, and a 2nd can of refrigerant. Put both cans in, using the gauges as suggested in a previous post. This should get it working, if only for a short time. You can look for the dye, it may indicate where the leak(s) are. In the mean time, you could have A/C again. Having grown up in Houston, I know what you are going through. Again, this approach won't fix the problem, but it should not cost over 20-30 bucks to try.
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Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
If you want to go on the cheap, you could do the following as a stop gap measure:
Buy the kit that contains the connector, a can of dye w/refigerant, and a 2nd can of refrigerant. Put both cans in, using the gauges as suggested in a previous post. This should get it working, if only for a short time. You can look for the dye, it may indicate where the leak(s) are. In the mean time, you could have A/C again. Having grown up in Houston, I know what you are going through. Again, this approach won't fix the problem, but it should not cost over 20-30 bucks to try.
Buy the kit that contains the connector, a can of dye w/refigerant, and a 2nd can of refrigerant. Put both cans in, using the gauges as suggested in a previous post. This should get it working, if only for a short time. You can look for the dye, it may indicate where the leak(s) are. In the mean time, you could have A/C again. Having grown up in Houston, I know what you are going through. Again, this approach won't fix the problem, but it should not cost over 20-30 bucks to try.