NEED HELP!!! brake pads
NEED HELP!!! brake pads Im going to get to the point,I started to change my front brake pads on my ls1 and when I took off the caliper and old pads my stupid little cousin hops in the drivers seat and starts pressing the brakes.So when I go to use the c clamp to depress the brake pistons they don't want to go down!!!I did the passenger side brakes and attempted to do the drivers side but the pistons wont go down with the c clamp....does anybody know any other way they might go down??? need my car tomorrow for work.
Put the pads back in (to keep the pistons from hyperextending, might not be necessary but just in case). Start the car up, push the brake pedal a couple times, shut it off. Should even things back out so you can use the C clamp to compress the pistons.
I'm no pro brake guy but that is what I'd do and it worked for me once.
I'm no pro brake guy but that is what I'd do and it worked for me once.
finally got them to depress!!! had to remove brake line,when I put the brake line back on it was leaking a little bit but then it stopped ,then it did it again and stopped is this normal???
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Originally Posted by 94'BLKBRD
where's the bleader screw???I went for a drive to break in the breaks and the e-brake light turned on.what does it mean when the brake light turns on???
filled it up with some brake fuild_no more brake light
took off brake line again because it was leaking and put it back on TIGHT_NO more leaks so far,I also put some rtv just in case
and I also bleeded the brake line
took off brake line again because it was leaking and put it back on TIGHT_NO more leaks so far,I also put some rtv just in case
and I also bleeded the brake line
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
Don't use RTV on a brake connection! 
Clean that stuff off and use new copper crush seals/washers on the brake hose connection. You can get new copper crush seals/washers from any auto parts store. Now you have to worry about whether any of that RTV traveled into the system plugging something up.... this could end badly and expensive.
When you've fixed that, bleed the entire braking system. Air could have traveled.
If you search on here, you'll find plenty of threads with instructions and tips on brake bleeding procedure. (Search in the Suspension & Braking section.)
Like said above, don't drive the car until you get the brakes fixed properly.
Clean that stuff off and use new copper crush seals/washers on the brake hose connection. You can get new copper crush seals/washers from any auto parts store. Now you have to worry about whether any of that RTV traveled into the system plugging something up.... this could end badly and expensive.
When you've fixed that, bleed the entire braking system. Air could have traveled.
If you search on here, you'll find plenty of threads with instructions and tips on brake bleeding procedure. (Search in the Suspension & Braking section.)
Like said above, don't drive the car until you get the brakes fixed properly.
Last edited by VIP1; Sep 12, 2007 at 01:29 PM.
i would say rebuild the calipers if the pistons came out, and if there still leaking!! the seals around the pistons probly went out and bleed the damm brakes that is a major role in changing your brakes
dude if you do you're own brakes but ask what/where the bleeder screw is, you either need to read a "how to do your brakes" before you take a wrench to them or have someone else do them otherwise you're gonna crash.
you can't put rtv on the banjo bolt threads (that's the bolt going through the brake hose fitting holding the hose to the caliper) or on the crush washers on each side of the banjo. Nothing else is compatible with brake fluid so you most likely contaminated the brake fluid in that caliper, it's going to boil sooner when you run the brakes hard, leave sediment in the caliper, and cause the seals on the piston in the caliper to fail sooner. There's on the order of 1000-3000 psi of fluid pressure in the brake system. The banjo bolt gets tightened to 40 lb-ft, which is probably tighter than you can get it with a handheld wrench. You need a tq wrench, and need 2 fresh crush washers on each side, the correct seal is made by first having everything clean, fresh crush washers, then torqing the bolt to the proper amount to crush the crush washers properly. The crush washers are only good once, that's how they work. Once crushed, if you remove or loosen the fitting you need a new crush washer. Then you need to bleed the brakes, properly, so there's no air in the calipers and lines otherwise you'll have a spongy feeling brake pedal. Google how to do your own brakes, there's plenty of good writeups and it is not hard but you do need to know what you're doing.
you can't put rtv on the banjo bolt threads (that's the bolt going through the brake hose fitting holding the hose to the caliper) or on the crush washers on each side of the banjo. Nothing else is compatible with brake fluid so you most likely contaminated the brake fluid in that caliper, it's going to boil sooner when you run the brakes hard, leave sediment in the caliper, and cause the seals on the piston in the caliper to fail sooner. There's on the order of 1000-3000 psi of fluid pressure in the brake system. The banjo bolt gets tightened to 40 lb-ft, which is probably tighter than you can get it with a handheld wrench. You need a tq wrench, and need 2 fresh crush washers on each side, the correct seal is made by first having everything clean, fresh crush washers, then torqing the bolt to the proper amount to crush the crush washers properly. The crush washers are only good once, that's how they work. Once crushed, if you remove or loosen the fitting you need a new crush washer. Then you need to bleed the brakes, properly, so there's no air in the calipers and lines otherwise you'll have a spongy feeling brake pedal. Google how to do your own brakes, there's plenty of good writeups and it is not hard but you do need to know what you're doing.
