Car stumbling! NEED HELP!!!
Car stumbling! NEED HELP!!! I was driving to my gf's house today and when I stopped at a red light my car started to stumble.So I get to my gf's house and I shut it off and start it again same thing.I disconnect the battery same thing,so I take of the lid and maf and air filter and clean them still the same thing.My car feels like it did when the batterry connections were loose.I have ran out of ideas,car has rough idle battery voltage is fine (Not going up or down).Ive had this car(00' ss)for about 18 months and have not had any problems thats why it was a big surprise when it started stumbling out of nowhere.
If anybody has any ideas of what it could be please don't hesitate to post
thanks
If anybody has any ideas of what it could be please don't hesitate to post
thanks
^^^ nope.... I've been having the same problem so yesterday I clean the maf, tb, and iac, and changed my filter since the lid was off. I started it up when I was done and it started with no problems. hopefully its fixed my problem.
might try cleaning the tb or iac and see if that does it. But i would also do what JSCamaro said and re check the ses codes
might try cleaning the tb or iac and see if that does it. But i would also do what JSCamaro said and re check the ses codes
I had the same problem, what I figured out is if you removed you AIR pump and have not had it turned off with a tune. Remove the fuse to your AIR pump. I also had a bad o2 at the time also, but I still think it was the AIR pump not being there and the PCM not knowing what the hell's going on
Even though I got a tune and the **** didn't turn off my EGR or my AIR. It worked for me, hope it helps.
Even though I got a tune and the **** didn't turn off my EGR or my AIR. It worked for me, hope it helps. ^^^ nope.... I've been having the same problem so yesterday I clean the maf, tb, and iac, and changed my filter since the lid was off. I started it up when I was done and it started with no problems. hopefully its fixed my problem.
might try cleaning the tb or iac and see if that does it. But i would also do what JSCamaro said and re check the ses codes
might try cleaning the tb or iac and see if that does it. But i would also do what JSCamaro said and re check the ses codes
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo iac is the idler air control its the top sensor that is on the drivers side of your throttle body, its held on by 2 t-20 hex screws if I'm not mistaken just clean that off with throttle body cleaner. I took the throttle body off then cleaned it very good with throttle body cleaner, you'll see all the black gunk thats on it and also clean the hole where the iac sits that gets pretty dirty also. It took two cans to clean the throttle body and iac for me. The maf you just buy maf cleaner take the maf apart and just spray it clean. both maf and tb cleaner should be at your local auto parts store. Took me a whole 20min to unbolt everything clean it and bolt it back on.
Get the codes scanned at autozone (it's free). If your SES light is flashing, you are getting misfires. You could have a bad O2 and yes it will happen out of nowhere, it did to me. Don't pay labor to get them put in, they are very simple to change out. You can also rent the tool for the socket from autozone.
Also having the air pump removed will give you an SES light (if it's not deleted in tuning) but it won't cause it to flash. The air pump only gets used on startup to prewarm the CATS, after about 5 minutes or so it turns off, it won't cause the car to stumble like you say. The stumbling is the cause of the misfires, just get the car scanned and the guesswork will be taken care of for you. Write down the code they give you or ask for the printout and let us know what happens. Good luck.
EDIT: Just noticed that you also have longtubes, forget about the O2 extensions if you are currently using those. Get the Bosch O2s 13111 part number. They also come up under Corvette rear O2s, they have a longer wire and are a hotter sensor since now the O2s are further downstream because of the longtubes.
Also having the air pump removed will give you an SES light (if it's not deleted in tuning) but it won't cause it to flash. The air pump only gets used on startup to prewarm the CATS, after about 5 minutes or so it turns off, it won't cause the car to stumble like you say. The stumbling is the cause of the misfires, just get the car scanned and the guesswork will be taken care of for you. Write down the code they give you or ask for the printout and let us know what happens. Good luck.
EDIT: Just noticed that you also have longtubes, forget about the O2 extensions if you are currently using those. Get the Bosch O2s 13111 part number. They also come up under Corvette rear O2s, they have a longer wire and are a hotter sensor since now the O2s are further downstream because of the longtubes.
Last edited by Roarin_8; Oct 9, 2007 at 12:10 AM. Reason: wrong part number
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
good ideas Wow you guys know your stuff! I am stuck in Britain with my Stock LS1 Camaro (Auto).
I have a slight variation on the stalling thing (although i will try all of the above)...
Mine starts fine, idle's high all fine, then i reverse out of my drive and into the road - change to Drive and it stalls. It then won't start (although cranking fine). The only way i can get her to fire up is by giving quite alot of gas. The car will then reluctantly take. After that all seems to settle down and i have no more issues.
The only other symptoms are that my gas milage recently dropped by 4mpg and i can smell more gas at start up. I figured it was just a clogged fuel injection system so ran some STP but no joy (although the car is more responsive now). Unfortunately i dont have a scanner and most people are very unsure about looking at American cars here.
I have a slight variation on the stalling thing (although i will try all of the above)...
Mine starts fine, idle's high all fine, then i reverse out of my drive and into the road - change to Drive and it stalls. It then won't start (although cranking fine). The only way i can get her to fire up is by giving quite alot of gas. The car will then reluctantly take. After that all seems to settle down and i have no more issues.
The only other symptoms are that my gas milage recently dropped by 4mpg and i can smell more gas at start up. I figured it was just a clogged fuel injection system so ran some STP but no joy (although the car is more responsive now). Unfortunately i dont have a scanner and most people are very unsure about looking at American cars here.
Last edited by screamingblues; Oct 8, 2007 at 06:52 AM.
The thing in my situation is that my car would only do it during warm up only. After it hit running temp, gone, wouldn't do it again unless I let the motor cool down again. It was bad enough that it felt like I was missing on "atleast" 4 cylinders or more. I did have the bad o2 on my car, but think it was a combo of the the 2. I pulled the fuse while running to Autozone to get a new o2 and it didn't misfire the whole way there and back. Not trying to start an arguement or anything, just some more input
Wow you guys know your stuff! I am stuck in Britain with my Stock LS1 Camaro (Auto).
I have a slight variation on the stalling thing (although i will try all of the above)...
Mine starts fine, idle's high all fine, then i reverse out of my drive and into the road - change to Drive and it stalls. It then won't start (although cranking fine). The only way i can get her to fire up is by giving quite alot of gas. The car will then reluctantly take. After that all seems to settle down and i have no more issues.
The only other symptoms are that my gas milage recently dropped by 4mpg and i can smell more gas at start up. I figured it was just a clogged fuel injection system so ran some STP but no joy (although the car is more responsive now). Unfortunately i dont have a scanner and most people are very unsure about looking at American cars here.
I have a slight variation on the stalling thing (although i will try all of the above)...
Mine starts fine, idle's high all fine, then i reverse out of my drive and into the road - change to Drive and it stalls. It then won't start (although cranking fine). The only way i can get her to fire up is by giving quite alot of gas. The car will then reluctantly take. After that all seems to settle down and i have no more issues.
The only other symptoms are that my gas milage recently dropped by 4mpg and i can smell more gas at start up. I figured it was just a clogged fuel injection system so ran some STP but no joy (although the car is more responsive now). Unfortunately i dont have a scanner and most people are very unsure about looking at American cars here.
Car needs 3 things to run, fuel, spark and air. The car is cranking so your starter is fine. When was the last time you checked your spark plugs? How many miles on the car? Since your car is stalling, your rpms sounds like they are falling too low. 500rpms is the idle for autos if I remember correctly. Is the car surging? Meaning, are the rpms fluctuating before the car stalls out?
The thing in my situation is that my car would only do it during warm up only. After it hit running temp, gone, wouldn't do it again unless I let the motor cool down again. It was bad enough that it felt like I was missing on "atleast" 4 cylinders or more. I did have the bad o2 on my car, but think it was a combo of the the 2. I pulled the fuse while running to Autozone to get a new o2 and it didn't misfire the whole way there and back. Not trying to start an arguement or anything, just some more input
No arguement intended, your case may have been slightly different. I said what I said about the AIR pump because it happened to me when I crimped the air hose since my lid didn't have the connection for it at the time and it threw a code. Something so simple and the car caught a fit
But it never misfired as a result of it. Just uncrimped the hose and the light came off after about 50-70 miles of driving or so. Last month my passenger 02 went bad and that's when the SES light was flashing and the car was stumbling, easy to hear and notice because of how loud the car is now. 