Changing the spark plugs...
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 36
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From: Hell (The locals call it Utah)
Changing the spark plugs... After three hours and progressing only one spark plug (out of 8) closer to my goal, I have come to the realization that changing the spark plugs on the LS1 engine is the biggest pain in the dick, EVER.
Not even the Chilton's manual is help. It says like, "Remove old plugs, insert new ones." Translation: "F*** that ****, you're on your own!" Right?
So, if anyone has pointers on doing this, I would appreciate it, because I'll drive the car off a cliff before I pay the 300$ that auto shops want to do it.
Not even the Chilton's manual is help. It says like, "Remove old plugs, insert new ones." Translation: "F*** that ****, you're on your own!" Right?
So, if anyone has pointers on doing this, I would appreciate it, because I'll drive the car off a cliff before I pay the 300$ that auto shops want to do it.
DS plugs are fairly easy, PS plugs get harder aas you travel toward rear of engine.
Back in the days when I still had factory exhaust manifolds and coil packs mounted on top of valve covers - I would remove the entire coil pack rail (with coil packs still attached) from PS valve cover for easier access.
I also bought a special LS1 spark plug tool - it is essentially a standard spark plug socket, shortened, with the ID bored out so that the entire plug can slide thru the socket with end of plug sticking out end of socket that normally would be where the ratchet attaches into square hole.
On the end where the ratchet would normally attach is now a hex machined on outside of socket - that way you have a shorter socket that can fit between the plug and the car when installing over the plug and there is no need to have room for the ratchet (which there isn't) - you simply use an open end ratcheting wrench (or common open end) on the socket hex to remove/install the plugs.
This tool proved to be invaluable in doing plug change and I didn't end up looking like I had been in a fight with a cat...
I got mine from eBay - do a search on 'LS1 plug socket'
Here's pics:
Back in the days when I still had factory exhaust manifolds and coil packs mounted on top of valve covers - I would remove the entire coil pack rail (with coil packs still attached) from PS valve cover for easier access.
I also bought a special LS1 spark plug tool - it is essentially a standard spark plug socket, shortened, with the ID bored out so that the entire plug can slide thru the socket with end of plug sticking out end of socket that normally would be where the ratchet attaches into square hole.
On the end where the ratchet would normally attach is now a hex machined on outside of socket - that way you have a shorter socket that can fit between the plug and the car when installing over the plug and there is no need to have room for the ratchet (which there isn't) - you simply use an open end ratcheting wrench (or common open end) on the socket hex to remove/install the plugs.
This tool proved to be invaluable in doing plug change and I didn't end up looking like I had been in a fight with a cat...
I got mine from eBay - do a search on 'LS1 plug socket'
Here's pics:
I don't have much of a problem with the ones on the drivers side, but the rear on the other side I usually get under the car to change. You didn't say if you have headers or not, but I know that I can reach the back plug (and other things in back) easily from under the car.
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 781
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From: Taxme, Ohio
It's a difficult job for most people so be patient and careful.
Obviously you need to pull the wire boots from the top of each spark plug. This in itself can be a pita. Mine where incredibly stuck with some white glue like substance.
Most people need to get the car up in order to remove the #8 (passenger side rear) plug. You should disconnect the negative battery cable and then unbolt the starter, laying it securely on the frame so you can get to that spark plug. The rest can be gotten from the top side.
You need to disconnect the A.I.R. plumbing and two bolts that secure the tube to the exhaust manifold. Usually the gasket beneath is not destroyed but you may want to have new ones on hand. For most people it is important to have the A.I.R. plumbing out of the way as it is a significant obstacle on both sides.
Next, you should disconnect the coil pack wiring and bracket from the passenger side in order to get to at least one or two other plugs on that side. This is not an easy task as there's little room under the windshield cowl. If you have a quarter inch ratchet set, getting to the last few bolts that hold the coil pack to the valve cover is fairly easy; although tedious. I did not re-use the last bolt when replacing the bracket. There are plenty of bolts without this one to hold the bracket securely.
With the car up on ramps; the starter out of the way and the A.I.R. and PS coil bracket removed, you can get to all the plugs with a standard 3/8" ratchet and spark plug socket. Having swiveling extensions and a jointed ratchet is a plus.
BTW, I'm not sure this applies to you as I do not see what model or year of car you have.
Obviously you need to pull the wire boots from the top of each spark plug. This in itself can be a pita. Mine where incredibly stuck with some white glue like substance.
Most people need to get the car up in order to remove the #8 (passenger side rear) plug. You should disconnect the negative battery cable and then unbolt the starter, laying it securely on the frame so you can get to that spark plug. The rest can be gotten from the top side.
You need to disconnect the A.I.R. plumbing and two bolts that secure the tube to the exhaust manifold. Usually the gasket beneath is not destroyed but you may want to have new ones on hand. For most people it is important to have the A.I.R. plumbing out of the way as it is a significant obstacle on both sides.
Next, you should disconnect the coil pack wiring and bracket from the passenger side in order to get to at least one or two other plugs on that side. This is not an easy task as there's little room under the windshield cowl. If you have a quarter inch ratchet set, getting to the last few bolts that hold the coil pack to the valve cover is fairly easy; although tedious. I did not re-use the last bolt when replacing the bracket. There are plenty of bolts without this one to hold the bracket securely.
With the car up on ramps; the starter out of the way and the A.I.R. and PS coil bracket removed, you can get to all the plugs with a standard 3/8" ratchet and spark plug socket. Having swiveling extensions and a jointed ratchet is a plus.
BTW, I'm not sure this applies to you as I do not see what model or year of car you have.
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your first time doing it , it will also take more than the usual time. its like swapping intakes... i have done mine 2 times and helped friends do theirs at least 3-4 times... i can do those things quick now
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I'll tell you one thing for sure the first time is a pain until you get the process down. I can do mine now in about 30 minutes with a cold motor. It definitely is harder when you have the egr and air systems still on the car. If I were you I would remove the air hoses and metal pieces, then I would pull the coil packs. Now you will have and extra couple of inches for your hands. Number 8 is the hardest plug no doubt though and it really is easier from underneath but I do it from on top every time. Like someone said earlier, try to get your arm low at the front of the motor and then reach back for number 8. Also pulling your dip stick is a huge help as well.
I did mine for the first time 3 weeks ago and it was a huge pita!
I would remove the air/egr pipes out of the way. And i just removed a few coil packs out of the way instead of all of them. I also removed the dip stick because it was in the way. i did plug #8 from the bottom and it was real easy. I dont know if it makes a difference but i have pacesetter longtubes
I would remove the air/egr pipes out of the way. And i just removed a few coil packs out of the way instead of all of them. I also removed the dip stick because it was in the way. i did plug #8 from the bottom and it was real easy. I dont know if it makes a difference but i have pacesetter longtubes
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 63
From: Knappa, Oregon
There are many threads on this. A good write up on installuniversity. If you don't have headers it's pretty hard to do the #8 from below. Removing the coil pack/rail from the passenger side is a must. You can leave the back bolt on loose and remove the others and just tilt the front end of the coil rail up if you want. Some guys never put the rear bolt back on the coil rail once they take it off. You also want to unhook the AIR tubes if you have them. Recommend getting new gaskets for them if you do. Stay calm. You can do it.
After three hours and progressing only one spark plug (out of 8) closer to my goal, I have come to the realization that changing the spark plugs on the LS1 engine is the biggest pain in the dick, EVER.
Not even the Chilton's manual is help. It says like, "Remove old plugs, insert new ones." Translation: "F*** that ****, you're on your own!" Right?
So, if anyone has pointers on doing this, I would appreciate it, because I'll drive the car off a cliff before I pay the 300$ that auto shops want to do it.
Not even the Chilton's manual is help. It says like, "Remove old plugs, insert new ones." Translation: "F*** that ****, you're on your own!" Right?
So, if anyone has pointers on doing this, I would appreciate it, because I'll drive the car off a cliff before I pay the 300$ that auto shops want to do it.
I wasn't able to see getting to #8 from underneath with the stock manifolds and exhaust in the way. I got all of them from up top with no parts removal except the coil rail. Then again, I've got small hands and arms so that is a definite plus...
but ur best bet would be to remove the coil pack on the PS and it should be easy,