Snootch

iTrader: (3)

I have a really weird problem. I have a SES light, and got the code read, It was P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input. The car died on me once or twice while I was driving, but started right back up. Lately, I've had to wait 30-45 minutes on the side of the road after it dies on me. It will crank, but won't turn over. I've tried resetting the PCM (disconnecting battery, removing fuses) and cleaning the MAF out with carb cleaner with no effect. The issue seems to be getting worse. Could this be caused by a bad MAF or PCM? The car was just removed from storage for a year, (car was started and driven around the block once a quarter, tank was empty when car was delivered to me) and didn't have any SES light when put into storage. Any suggestions? The car is a 2000 TA, LS6 intake, lid, LT headers, ORY, exhaust, Z06 cam, no tune.

EDIT: BTW, the fuses are all good.

camaroguy26

iTrader: (21)

I don't think carb cleaner helped it any. You may need to replace it but give it a really good cleaning first. do a search and you'll find how to clean it. the MAF is veeeeery sensitive. Pretty much how it works is the thin wire in the middle is heated to a really high temp, and as air passes over it the maf reads how much voltage it takes to keep it at that temp. I don't know this for a fact but I read somewhere that when you turn the car off it heats that wire to an ungodly amount to help self clean it so you get more accurate readings. but if there was more on it then normal contaminants in the air it probably got cooked or coated with something and is reading completely off

2001NBMZ28

Are you sure the ENG SEN fuse isn't blown? Buddy of mine threw P0102 and the fuse was open because one of the 02 wiring harnesses was melted against his LT. If it's good, time to do a full diagnosis - www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic9069.php

Atver300

iTrader: (8)

unplug it and the car should run just fine untill you get another one if it does thats your problem

AJ93LT1

unplugging it wont fix the problem and spraying any cleaner on the maf will ruin it very fast there is no way to clean them, and it dont sound like a pcm prob. i would just go ahead and change the maf if it were me b/c either way it hs been damaged by the cleaner that was sprayed into it. hope tis may help its not much but just from exp. it worth a shot man

CJDZ24_Z28

iTrader: (75)

Same thing happened here and that was the code i got.

Atver300

iTrader: (8)

I didnt say unplugging it would fix it. it will allow him to diagnose the problem before buying a new maf though. if you unplug the maf and drive the car and the problem isnt there then the maf is your priblem if you have the same symptoms as before then he'd need to look else where. Adnd the is a way to clean a MAF its called MAF cleaner and they sell it at almost all parts stores

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Not sure what rock you came out from under but carb cleaner will not damage the MAF. We have cleaned many mafs through the years at shop that have been oiled by careless users of cleanable reusable airfilters.

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

Okay, I replaced the MAF and TB, and I still have the issue. It now runs for 10-15 minutes then dies and will not restart. Can anyone shed some light on this? This really sucks because my other car has been getting worse (bad wheel/axle bearing) and if it breaks, I am walking. BTW, the ENG SEN fuse is good.

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

Bump.

Seriously need some help here guys. Anyone?

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

I started it today, and is ran for 4 minutes before dying. It actually started again immediately, and ran for 5 minutes before dying again. It would not start again, only crank, and crank. Does anyone have any idea what this problem is? I've replaced the MAF once already, and all the fuses are good.
I don't think there is a GM dealer anywhere in this part of Italy, and If I have to have it towed into town to have it worked on, it'll cost me upwards of $500. (Ihad it towed 1.3 miles from home when this problem started initially, and it cost me 100 euros ($160) to have it towed)

So any help would be seriously appreciated. Thanks!

fuseone

check the harrness for the maf.

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

I ran the car today with the MAF un-plugged and it still died in 4-5 minutes. I guess this leads me to believe its a computer or wiring problem. How would I check the harness, strip the covering off it as far as possible, then look for shorts?

fuseone

could do that but i would think to check for exessive voltage drop

leoni62486

iTrader: (5)

i would def check those 02 wiring harnesses under there u never kno that might be the problem i had the same trhin but my fuse was blown so i dunno but do check it, i was goin insane when this was doin it to me, so i dunno, i would def double check it all under there...

fuseone

would the o2 harness cause that code?

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

What should the voltage be at the MAF plug?

oh, and I have headers installed (no O2 sensors) should I look at the wiring there for obvious shorts in the wiring?

fuseone

wait so no o2 sensor or just no rear o2's? and im pretty sure it should be 5volts. but you would have to check volt drop across the ground side also not just total voltage

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

The headers I have do have O2 bungs on them. I was under the impression those were the only o2 sensors. I had a shop do the install, I assume they used O2 sims, or programmed them out.

My MAF voltages (motor running > 1 minute) are: Black-Pink: 14vdc Black-Yellow: 4.5-5.0vdc

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

Quick question, Could it possibly be an O2 sim going bad? If that happened, wouldnt the computer throw a different code? I'm thinking maybe over the year the car was in storage maybe the o2 sims went "bad" or something. Also, since the header install, do they have to mess with the rear o2 sensors? are they located on the y-pipe? and if they are, then possibly could they be going bad, even though i'm seeing 12vdc at the MAF?

EDIT: I just got out from under the car, and there ARE o2 sensors on the headers. It looks like the guys that installed my headers cut the o2 wires, and shortened them. The splice looks good- barrel-crimp connectors wrapped with shitloads of electrical tape. Should I just get some new o2 sensors from the dealer (or GM parts direct) and replace them?