Driver side door latch?
Driver side door latch? i have a rattling/clunk when i go over bumps in the road it sounds like its coming from the driver side door theres no loose pieces in there? but my latch is a little loose it can wiggle quite a bit is there any way to tighten the latch?
Try taking both of your door panels off and compare the two. In addition to seeing if anything is broken or loose, you may take note of the insulators in the door. There are some sheaths on some linkages to cut down on noise - so one of those may be out of place or missing.
You may also have something loose in the bottom of the door. If you hear a dull noise, check for the rubber stopper at the front of the door (behind the speaker). Its a rubber piece that slides in to a slot in the bottom front of the door that acts a cusion when the window is all the way down. If it has come out of the slot, it could be moving around inside.
You may also have something loose in the bottom of the door. If you hear a dull noise, check for the rubber stopper at the front of the door (behind the speaker). Its a rubber piece that slides in to a slot in the bottom front of the door that acts a cusion when the window is all the way down. If it has come out of the slot, it could be moving around inside.
well im positive its towards the back of the door could even be in the panel right behind the door but i think its the latch ive had the panels off and the only thing different was that the driver side latch had a lot more play in it then the passenger side
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From: Hoosier Daddy....
This may be a shot in the dark, but check your door hinge. Open the door about half way, then lift up on the end of the door. Usually, the upper hinge goes first. You will be able to tell if there's any play in there.
If it's the hinge, that will allow the rear of the door to sag, and move up and down a bit on the striker while the door is closed and you are driving, and the body is flexing. If it's bad enough, it will wear into your door latch, and eventually latch notch in the door itself. This is from repeatedly closing a sagging door. Also look on the striker on the door jamb to see if there is any wear.
If it's the hinge, that will allow the rear of the door to sag, and move up and down a bit on the striker while the door is closed and you are driving, and the body is flexing. If it's bad enough, it will wear into your door latch, and eventually latch notch in the door itself. This is from repeatedly closing a sagging door. Also look on the striker on the door jamb to see if there is any wear.
Last edited by johnnybravo; Apr 17, 2008 at 03:17 PM. Reason: added descriptive word
Launching!
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From: Hoosier Daddy....
Replace the hinge, if that's what it turns out to be. I just found out about this issue last week. Took the car to a local Chevy dealer body shop. Apparently this is a common issue with the late model f bodies. The top hinge is not your standard pin/bushing hinge.
The manager who checked it said someone was probably leaning on the drivers door a lot when they were getting in and out. Had to be previous owner, I don't lean on the the door.
He showed me where the striker was wearing into the plastic part on the door latch. If it wasn't fixed, it would wear into the metal part, then the door latch notch (the door itself).
I thought about changing it myself, as they would get the parts for me. But, that's one stinkin' heavy door. I scheduled them to do it. They are going to change both hinges while the door is off.
What brought this to my attention was the other week i went to an event where people parked in the grass. It was a slightly unlevel surface. When I opened the drivers door, it nicked the back of the fender, chipping the paint on the front edge of the door. Just a tiny bit, but I heard the door creak when I opened it, and being **** about stuff, I checked it out.
I just dropped the car off yesterday at the body shop. It is supposed to be done today. The cost for replacing both hinges and touching up the paint nick is around $350.
I'll give an update when I get the car back.
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Launching!
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From: Hoosier Daddy....
Update Just got the car back. The door feels like it releases a lot crisper, like right now. swings nice. Also latches easier when closing. Feels a LOT better. I would imagine that's because the latch is no longer resting on the striker.
Went for a drive. Wow. That side of the car is a lot quieter when going over a bump. It used to thump when going over a bump in the road. I alway attributed that noise to the suspension. The door hinge must have been worn since I got the car.
Money well spent, I think. Cheaper than a new door.
Went for a drive. Wow. That side of the car is a lot quieter when going over a bump. It used to thump when going over a bump in the road. I alway attributed that noise to the suspension. The door hinge must have been worn since I got the car.
Money well spent, I think. Cheaper than a new door.
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From: Hoosier Daddy....
Additional Update When I picked up the car, I talked at length to the body shop guy about sub frame connectors. I've seen them discussed on the forum, but I always figured unless you were racing, they were somewhat unncessary. He said they were a good idea, whether you ran the car hard or not.
So, I'm planning on my next mods to be SFC's and a shock tower brace sometime later this summer.
So, I'm planning on my next mods to be SFC's and a shock tower brace sometime later this summer.
Launching!
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From: Hoosier Daddy....
heavy door? its fiberglass! the window weighs more than the door-almost. I've had a buick regal, 2-70 camaros 78+80camaro 79 t/a you thank changing your door was heavy try picking up a 79 t/a door and those hinges were undersized too - heavy door on a weak hinge had to change bushings in all of em
Ok, ya got me. I'll admit: I just didn't want to do it. It was easier to have a shop mess with it. I don't mind wrenching and stuff, but I'm not a fan of body work. Can you tell?
