slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

I have to remove the bar to adjust it. I can feel the sound in the bar as i push the vehicle side to side, ( grabbing onto exhaust.) on both the upper panhard bar support and especially the bar itself. But there is also ALOT of sound coming from each of the wheels, but the sound there goes away (at least makes it MUCH harder to simulate the sound) when the e-brake is applied. So really i have 2 sounds, but can only hear one distinct one while in the car going over any sort of bumps. Sometimes it's worse than others, sometimes i can barely hear it sometimes it sounds the back end is going to fall off.

knappbunch

called bmr told them the situation and had them send me new ones got them and was going to put them in last night but there was still a little play standard sleeve metric bolt( he idiots if you sell a car specific part maybe you should research and get specific parts.) that was directed at bmr. so i am going to get the 7/16 bolts today and put them in tonight.

knappbunch

grab the torque arm and put your a#* in it pull it and push it hard while the suspension is loaded you should feel it move a little. that is probably the noise you here comming from the wheels.

JD_AMG

Should have searched through the suspension section for this. LCA and a PHB wont do anything for noise, and if they are rod ended they will only increase noise. If you want to get rid of rattles and have a better ride you need better shocks.

Dskeet6

iTrader: (20)

do you have subframe connectors?????? the stock control arm holes are slightly smaller than the sleeves on UMI's control arms..... so in order to get a bolt through, it ends up being smaller than the sleeve. I have this same problem with my UMI suspension.. subframes, control arms, relocations brackets, and panhard
strano springs

looks to me like the sleeve size on all the bushings just doesnt match up with the bolt size. These suspension companies telling us the bolts need to be torqued more so they dont rattle as much........ well im sick of it.

my rear end rattles pretty good, with every bolt tightened and control arm bolts torqued to 130ft. lbs....... tightening more is just going to cause premature bushing wear...... they should send every customer sleeve inserts to keep the parts from sliding around or just start matching up the bolt size to the sleeve itself...........

i am going to try rubber inserts on sleeves too large for the bolts to see if it quiets down let you know how it goes...

knappbunch

just drill out the holes slightly and put in 7/16 bolts if you read my previous posts in this thread you will see what i am saying.

Dskeet6

iTrader: (20)

first of all how do you get a drill in there to drill out by the subframe connectors???? Im hearing my noises come from there. Also, what happens if you want to put the stock control arms back in.... the sleeve wont match up with the hole anymore.... they will make more noise than the aftermarket control arms.

i am hearing clunking from the front of my torque arm as well, can you confirm that the sleeve/bolt sizing is not correct there as well?

knappbunch

the torque arm on my car slides into a bushing at the tranny so the bolts dont't have crush sleeves since they are factory tranny bolts but I don't plan on puuting my stock arms back and if i did i would just have to rectify the crush sleve issue on the stock arms as to make the bigger sleveves fit in them.

Black 99 Bird

iTrader: (31)

This is a great thread keep it going guys. Great brainstorming here.

knappbunch

VERY PISSED put in new crush sleeves and bolts noise still there. will try again

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

The whole point of the bar is to center the rearend under the car. the top bar ties the 2 rear frame rails together so under a big load all the force isnt going into one rail. the reason the sound going away when you remove the PHB is because when you start pushing on the car side to side your letting the rearend sway under the car instead of moving whatever is making the noise.

my guess is worn c-clips (or the axles) letting your axles move (why it gets alot quieter with the e-brakes on)

Dskeet6

iTrader: (20)

i am thinking most of the clunking, rattling is coming from aftermarket control arms or control arm mounting

subframe connectors.... relocation brackets..... or a combination of both with aftermarket control arms

if you get a chance, check the adapter and bolt inside your relocation brackets to see if they match up......

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

I dont think it can be from aftermarket suspension. if suspension had problems there would have been recalls or product upgrades.

When backing up and turning at the same time you get a bunch of clunks. i had this exact same problem with a 2000 SS and it had stock suspension....rearend was the culprit.

If i were you. put your rearend up on jackstands and pull your rear cover off. then simulate whatever you have to do to make the car make its noises. that will give you a better idea if its something internal.

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

your reasoning seems to make since to me, i will get that cover off an snap a few pics. if the c-clips are bad can i just replace them or should i get a whole new rear end?

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

I actually just ended up taking the cover off, and i can simulate ALL the sounds i hear, the clicking sound when i shift between gears comes from where the drive shaft meets up to the rear end, and i just by moving the tires back and forth and in circles i can hear all of the other sounds coming from the inside of the rear itself. I wish i could snap some pics but i don't have camera, i really can't see anything but then again i know nothing about rear ends.

also, i did a search and 95% of the clunking people seem to get is while turning, i'm not getting any of that. It's just while going over bumps, especially at lower speeds.

BigT2002

iTrader: (2)

I have the same noise you have...but I discovered it to be the exhaust was rubbing. I adjusted the muffler and it went away

07gsxr750

iTrader: (2)

u did grease the bushings right.

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

Read my post above, i found that the sound is coming from the rear end itself. no question.

DrkPhynx

I've been watching this thread and running searches on related things.

I've had clunking for a long time now. Turns out that at least *some* of that was from a widened body-side LCA bracket from when I had the SFCs installed. I could not hammer the bracket ear back in, so I slipped a washer in there instead, and cranked it down nice and tight, and verified no gaps on either side (of both LCAs). That helped.

So the next day I re-checked the PHB (tight, no gaps, solid bushing sleeve contact), the axle side of the LCAs (ditto), and even cushioned the emergency brake cable from hitting the PHB.

I thought that would cure my ills, but it did not. I still have clunking/rattling coming from the back. I'm wondering if my stock 10 bolt might be the source as well.

Please keep us posted on what you do, and how you resolve this problem. I can't afford to replace the piece yet, but this noise is killing me.

(btw, 2002 with no engine mods or tweaks or tunes, and only 12,000 miles, most of which were "easy" miles, and no drag launches)

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

I took the cover off my rear end and the sound is definitely coming from the rear-end. There is an excess amount of play in the axle so something in there is definitely broke.