Window doesnt't go up all the way...Pics included
07-29-2008, 10:04 PM
#21
Sounds like a fair idea if the door panel still goes on OK.
BTW - Taking another look at the pics, the damage may be due to rivets of the wrong type. The correct rivets (GM has a special part # for them) are special and have a steel mandrel with an alumninum jacket. If yours are steel throughout, they may have caused the fiberglass to crack around the holes.
BTW - Taking another look at the pics, the damage may be due to rivets of the wrong type. The correct rivets (GM has a special part # for them) are special and have a steel mandrel with an alumninum jacket. If yours are steel throughout, they may have caused the fiberglass to crack around the holes.
07-29-2008, 10:42 PM
#23
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Sounds like a fair idea if the door panel still goes on OK.
BTW - Taking another look at the pics, the damage may be due to rivets of the wrong type. The correct rivets (GM has a special part # for them) are special and have a steel mandrel with an alumninum jacket. If yours are steel throughout, they may have caused the fiberglass to crack around the holes.
BTW - Taking another look at the pics, the damage may be due to rivets of the wrong type. The correct rivets (GM has a special part # for them) are special and have a steel mandrel with an alumninum jacket. If yours are steel throughout, they may have caused the fiberglass to crack around the holes.
Well then if this is the case, im really gonna pissed cause chevy is the one who has replaced my window motors and tried to fix that window problem...so if they didnt use those GM rivots then ima be mad...
07-30-2008, 01:26 AM
#24
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perhaps you can adjust the rails where the regulator sit's on until it closes correctly when i replaced my regulator and motor i had a similar issue with sealing but i just adjusted the rails and problem was halfway resolves as long as i don't take a pressure washer to the top but that might do to old weather stripping. and the plate idea doesn't sound bad either buy and modify
07-30-2008, 06:37 AM
#26
If you put a magnet to the rivets, does it stick? Are they steel or alumninum? Are the rivets listed as parts on your invoice from the repair? If they used the wrong parts, you may be able to file a claim against the dealership and have them deal with the problem. (Of course, they may make the whole thing worse.)
07-30-2008, 07:28 AM
#27
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Please do this ... I just got done with mine and got through a whole dumbass ordeal with the dealership and whatnot because I didn't want to mess with the stupid thing. I took it to my guy and we fabbed up a metal plate the shape of that entire place where the door kind of sinks in. Then held up the metal plate and held the motor to it so it had no play in it. Then took some rivets and riveted the plate to the door. Looks much better than the chewed up door and works a **** load better than before the window was messed up.
Oh and they really are a pain in the ***. The dealer told me I needed a whole new door too, yeah right! Stick it up your *** ...
Oh and they really are a pain in the ***. The dealer told me I needed a whole new door too, yeah right! Stick it up your *** ...
07-31-2008, 12:37 PM
#29
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Don't worry about a metal plate. Drill out those rivets and put in a set of nuts and bolts with locktite on the threads. Get some big washers to go on there and make sure you tighten them pretty good and it will not move. I had the same issue bc the asshat before me replaced it with bolts and nuts but no locktite and they did the same thing yours did. Put washers on them and locktite and it's good to go. Perfect seal with no sagging issues for over a year now. The metal tab that sits on the inner panel isn't critical if you have 3 secure mounting points (should have with all the bolts in). Your gonna risk rattles with a metal plate and it's going to be more expensive then a trip to lowes for some stainless bolts+nuts+washers+locktite.
08-02-2008, 02:32 AM
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Don't worry about a metal plate. Drill out those rivets and put in a set of nuts and bolts with locktite on the threads. Get some big washers to go on there and make sure you tighten them pretty good and it will not move. I had the same issue bc the asshat before me replaced it with bolts and nuts but no locktite and they did the same thing yours did. Put washers on them and locktite and it's good to go. Perfect seal with no sagging issues for over a year now. The metal tab that sits on the inner panel isn't critical if you have 3 secure mounting points (should have with all the bolts in). Your gonna risk rattles with a metal plate and it's going to be more expensive then a trip to lowes for some stainless bolts+nuts+washers+locktite.
SimC33, check out my thread i made the other day. I looked at the pictures of your door and they are not that bad. To me it looks like you can do as firechicken said and just use bolts and screws with washers.
One thing you also want to check is make sure that the wheels are inside the runner rails, inside the door. If they are off the rail, your window wont roll all the way up so make sure the wheels are in the rails.
Last edited by 98boxer; 08-02-2008 at 02:03 PM.
08-08-2008, 01:58 PM
#32
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Well here is the update on this for future people to see if this problem occurs to yall...here is my car after i took it to my body shop...Overall i think they did great work on the door...Its exactly how i wanted...no noise coming off of it and the window goes up ALL the way...so for people with this window problem...this way works....
12-09-2008, 05:42 PM
#35
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but when you guys had this problem, did you also have the door panel actually pushing out at the bottom when window went all the way down?
I'm 99% sure I have the same issue.
I noticed that I could pull the window up to where it should be, but it goes right back down to look exactly like the picture in the first post.
Thanks for any info.
I'm 99% sure I have the same issue.
I noticed that I could pull the window up to where it should be, but it goes right back down to look exactly like the picture in the first post.
Thanks for any info.
12-09-2008, 06:25 PM
#37
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No, this pushes out like an inch or more...enough so that it made me notice it. I could always feel it hit the panel or whatever, but this actually feels like its trying to push through it.
09-23-2009, 01:55 PM
#40
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well being as you had gm do the work(and they are suppose to be the best mechanics....lol sometime and certified). i'd be one pissed off son of a bitch. they would beeen fixing it for free or paying the body shop.