Difficulty of removing engine...
Difficulty of removing engine... Just wondering exactly how difficult it would be to remove the engine in my car without a lift and just do it in my garage. Ive got 4 2 ton jack stands and a decent size floor jack. I have access to a lift at school but im not really looking forward to dealing with other BS over there and have people messing with my car when im not around. Not to mention loosing important parts.
Also any special tools i might need? and how much harder is putting it back in without the lift?
Is it my best bet to just do it at school anyways?
Also any special tools i might need? and how much harder is putting it back in without the lift?
Is it my best bet to just do it at school anyways?
Your going to have to get it pretty darn high in order to clear the bottom of the car. Probably have to remove the intake,heads, lower air deflector .....things off that nature to clear out a few more inches of space for you to clear the bottom of the car. Good luck with it and by all means if you have a Digital Camera, take some photos of the process.
Also, when I did it, I put every nut and bolt in a labled ziplock bag, and when I removed the wiring harness I put blue tape around each connector and labled it. It made things much more organized and easier to put back together.
what do i do with the car once the engines out? you cant really move it around or anything once the whole engine cradle is out. did you guys just reinstall the cradle once you had the engine off of it?
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just do it from the top. You don't have to pull the wiring harness or worry about aligning your front end back up or bleeding breaks. And you can still move the car around. Best option IMO if you don't have access to a lift and a place to store your car.
From the bottom, it's very easy. I used a cherry picker to lift it up high, set it on tall jack stands, and rolled the whole k-member out on an ATV jack. Just remember, you will have to bleed your brakes, and you will have to align the car.
It is obviously easier on a lift, and if you're careful to not move the K-member at all you can usually get away with not having to align the car again.. just lower the lift back down exactly how it was.
What are you wanting to do to the engine?
It is obviously easier on a lift, and if you're careful to not move the K-member at all you can usually get away with not having to align the car again.. just lower the lift back down exactly how it was.
What are you wanting to do to the engine?
Pulling the engine only took 4 or 5 hours, but once I had it out, I pulled off the wiring harness, but it on an engine stand and replaced every gasket and seal because everything was leaking and dirty, then I cammed it and put it back in. Putting it back in only took 4 or 5 hours as well including bleeding the brakes and clutch. I set the engine on a roll around dolly and it rolled around very easily, then I just put the engine on an engine stand and left the K member n such on the roll around dolly.
Well, all 6 we did this year came out the Top. This will enable you to move the car if you need to. The only real special tools that are important are, some long extentions to get to the bellhousing bolts, also a pulley puller for the Crank pulley. Most everything else is just regular wrenches and sockets. Good luck, and keep us updated.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
I'd recommend one of these to roll the k-member/motor on and have a floor jack supporting the trans.
Works like a champ.. and when your body is sitting on jack stands you can jack this thing up and line up your k-member bolts.
I'd recommend one of these to roll the k-member/motor on and have a floor jack supporting the trans.
Works like a champ.. and when your body is sitting on jack stands you can jack this thing up and line up your k-member bolts.
anybody got a tutorial on how to remove from the top? Is there any difference really or is it just pulling it out the top and disconnecting all the same parts?
Is there any Clearance issues with removing from the top?
Is there any Clearance issues with removing from the top?
It is a little tight getting it by the Cowl, But other than that there are no real clearance issues. I have found that it is better if you take out the A/C, it gives you more room to work. Just take it slow and make sure all the wires are disconnested.
also, getting the bolt into the back of the head sounds like its going to be a bitch since thats back under the cowl. wouldnt this cause clearance problems since the cowl is covering the back of the engine? Im thinking once you have the chain connected and start to pull up its going hit the bottom of the cowl and cause some major problems.