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Hooker headers any good?

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Old Dec 14, 2008 | 07:18 PM
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Default Hooker headers any good?

I have heard they are good as far as ground clearence but I cant find anything regarding how they perform.

I have a chance to pck up a set of new 1-3/4" for a really good price from a local shop.
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Old Dec 14, 2008 | 08:27 PM
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I think for the most part about all longtube headers are not too far apart in means of performance. People on here use them and will tell you they love them, others will tell you they dont. The reason the range in price is so different between brands is because of quality and fitment. If you can get a good deal on a set then i'd say go for it.
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Old Dec 14, 2008 | 11:58 PM
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i love mine.... i did however have to grind on the K-member to make them fit. They look/perform amazing and they sound even better with a full system.... just my 2 cents

and make sure you get them ceramic coated
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by NeedaV8foundation
i love mine.... i did however have to grind on the K-member to make them fit. They look/perform amazing and they sound even better with a full system.... just my 2 cents

and make sure you get them ceramic coated
They aren't coated. Is that a big problem? Does it really make a big differance in under the hood temp?

And what sort of hp gains can I expect? (stock other than Borla catback and SLP lid with K&N filer,)
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ryanater
They aren't coated. Is that a big problem? Does it really make a big differance in under the hood temp?

And what sort of hp gains can I expect? (stock other than Borla catback and SLP lid with K&N filer,)
The problem with them being uncoated is not only the increased underhood temperatures but the coating protects for longevity. A set of painted headers isn't going to last long. They'll start rusting within weeks and, depending on your location, they may rust through entirely in a few years and require replacing. IMO, getting anything less than coated is a waste of money. I strongly recommend a stainless header. That's the way I went and I don't regret it at all. Stainless is cheaper in the long run because buying one set of headers once is a lot cheaper than buying 2 when your first set rusts through and fails.

When you say "a good price," how much are we talking? If it's over $300 you're getting ripped off big time on a painted header.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
The problem with them being uncoated is not only the increased underhood temperatures but the coating protects for longevity. A set of painted headers isn't going to last long. They'll start rusting within weeks and, depending on your location, they may rust through entirely in a few years and require replacing. IMO, getting anything less than coated is a waste of money. I strongly recommend a stainless header. That's the way I went and I don't regret it at all. Stainless is cheaper in the long run because buying one set of headers once is a lot cheaper than buying 2 when your first set rusts through and fails.

When you say "a good price," how much are we talking? If it's over $300 you're getting ripped off big time on a painted header.
They are going to be $200. And I don't have to pay shipping because he is trying to get rid of them before the end of the year.

So what kind of horsepower can I expect to get with these things?
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ryanater
So what kind of horsepower can I expect to get with these things?
15-20 would be a safe range.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by SS1875
15-20 would be a safe range.
Thats pretty good! How does that compair with Kooks and other top performance headers?
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ryanater
They are going to be $200. And I don't have to pay shipping because he is trying to get rid of them before the end of the year.

So what kind of horsepower can I expect to get with these things?
15-20, like mentioned above, is a reasonable guess. In my case, I didn't gain much of anything with the headers because the car got thrown so far out of tune. I dynoed 303rwhp with them. After my tune, I dynoed 338rwhp. I picked up 35rwhp and 40rwtq from the tune. Realistically, headers and a tune were good for at least 40rwhp for my car so keep that in mind (also keep in mind I got QTP's which are a longer, equal length design and have merge collectors so that's good for ~5-10rwhp over most other headers). All cars respond differently.

BTW, I still recommend you spend the extra $150-$200 and get coated.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 11:05 AM
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Are the QTPs one of the best, if not the best on the market, from what I hear?
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Striker
Are the QTPs one of the best, if not the best on the market, from what I hear?
It's hard to say what is "the best" header on the market because that is a matter of opinion. What is the best may be the best performing, the best fitting, the best horsepower/dollar, the least expensive, etc. What I can tell you is QTP is one of the best value stainless headers out there as they are less money than other stainless brands and they are one of the best performing as they are the longest designed longtubes, are equal length and have merge collectors. Overall I'm happy with the headers themselves. It's just a shame their y-pipe isn't as good as it is aluminized and has poor ground clearance. If you don't mind having a custom y-pipe made, they're a good way to go.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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Hooker headers are FINE. I have them on my trans am, on my 69' camaro racecar, and on my dads 64' chevelle racecar. My 1-3/4's went up with no issue or notching of the k member, and my frends 1-7/8's were alot tighter to the plugs but still fit not problem. If your truly worried about the painted... send em to jet hot and have them coated, then theyll be better then anything, and wont rust.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 01:16 PM
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+1 what Dragkid1917 said
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragkid1917
Hooker headers are FINE. I have them on my trans am, on my 69' camaro racecar, and on my dads 64' chevelle racecar. My 1-3/4's went up with no issue or notching of the k member, and my frends 1-7/8's were alot tighter to the plugs but still fit not problem. If your truly worried about the painted... send em to jet hot and have them coated, then theyll be better then anything, and wont rust.
Will do. Thanks!
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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I have qtps and love them.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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i had hooker longtubes and there off road y pipe for my old 00 Z! they were good quality headers. no problems at all. the only regret i did have is the y pipe banging the floor board, but that is a common thing. very good header.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 03:42 PM
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Coated headers will still rust. They'll just rust a little slower than painted headers will. In 3 years, if your car sees any kind of weather, even coated headers will look pretty nasty. The only way to escape that is to go stainless steel.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
The problem with them being uncoated is not only the increased underhood temperatures but the coating protects for longevity. A set of painted headers isn't going to last long. They'll start rusting within weeks and, depending on your location, they may rust through entirely in a few years and require replacing. IMO, getting anything less than coated is a waste of money. I strongly recommend a stainless header. That's the way I went and I don't regret it at all. Stainless is cheaper in the long run because buying one set of headers once is a lot cheaper than buying 2 when your first set rusts through and fails.

When you say "a good price," how much are we talking? If it's over $300 you're getting ripped off big time on a painted header.

Thanks ChOOOOCO I just leaned I got rippped off on my ARH's since they were not coated THANKS FOR THE INFO.. HOPE YOUR QTP'S DON'T START LEAKING SOON and banging soon
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 09:03 PM
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^^^ arh makes non stainless headers ?? I have qtps and they dont leak or rattle or anything.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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Whats a really good fitting header/Y pipe out there that can be bolted up with no modifications or grinding of the K member?
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