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Ls1 Polyurethane Engine Mount?

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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:22 PM
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Default Ls1 Polyurethane Engine Mount?

so i recently purchased some of these and was told it would be around 200 dollars to have them put in.... wow.. does anyone else have these? do they make that big of difference? i only bought them because one of my friends practically gave them to me. i really wouldnt think it would be that big of task, but i was told it would be a 3 hour job.

they are prothane motion control engine mounts.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:26 PM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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i just bought these as well. i have worked about three afternoons on the car, taking my time and i am just starting to put it back together. but i had to completely drop the k member to do an oil pan/front cover gasket where you wont have to. once you get the alt and air compresser and starter out of the way its not so bad.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:29 PM
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I got a set and i really like them....i didnt have to do all that i just unbolted the engine popped the hood and jacked the motor up anough to swap them...watch all the wiring and you jack it up though
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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i found the instructions in my back seat, they must have fallen out. anyway it says that the stock mounts must have the rivets drilled then you have to torch the metal to break the chemical bond between it and the rubber? is this a diy project or should i just suck it up and take it to a shop? im not really afraid to give it a shot i would just hate to be stuck mid project and no car lol.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 11:22 PM
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Who ever quoted you 200 for the install must not have done it before, so I would jump on that. The only reason I did mine is because the motor was out. I would also consider it if you were doing headers. Its not hard by any means, just quite possibly the biggest pain in the *** mod you can do to these cars.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 11:57 PM
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i def plan on doing headers later on. my car is mostly stock right now but my list of plans seem to grow and change every week lol. is engine vibration anything i should worry about? right now this car is my dd but eventually it will be sidelined for building
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 11:59 PM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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Originally Posted by Driftunit
i found the instructions in my back seat, they must have fallen out. anyway it says that the stock mounts must have the rivets drilled then you have to torch the metal to break the chemical bond between it and the rubber? is this a diy project or should i just suck it up and take it to a shop? im not really afraid to give it a shot i would just hate to be stuck mid project and no car lol.
me as well as some others i know had the rubber pieces just fall out. drill a small pilot hole through the two rivets then follow with a 3/8 bit. the other three are hollow type rivets so just run the 3/8 bit in and then pry the two halves apart. you will know if the rubber is loose bc it will move around in there. no torch needed.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 12:25 AM
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well that doesnt seem to bad. ill most likely be doing this soon when i get a little time. are the stock mount bolts hard to get to or are they in plain sight?
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 01:38 AM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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Originally Posted by Driftunit
well that doesnt seem to bad. ill most likely be doing this soon when i get a little time. are the stock mount bolts hard to get to or are they in plain sight?
well i have LTs so i can only say for them. for the pass mount the AC compressor had to come off and the bracket for it as well. i pulled the starter too because it makes access to the back of the mount way easier. then its in plain sight. the driver mount was blocked by the alternator so thats gotta come off and header clearance seems to be tighter on that side to get to the back of the mount. i was able to get to the back without removing the header though. pulling them off the motor is super easy with the motor jacked up for the pass mount but the driver mount has a heatshield(meaning a nut on top of a bolt/stud). the back two bolts were hell to get off bc of the header being in the way so i took some stainless rod i had laying around and welded it to the ends of a 10mm wrench and a 13mm wrench so i could reach the heat shield nut(10 mm) and mount bolt(13mm) bc my hand wouldn't fit up there. then its the reverse and your done.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 02:52 AM
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I have the poly motor and tranny mount, and you CAN feel the difference in vibration, but its not bad, it get worse at certain speeds and RPM's but i dont mind it...i mean its a camaro not a cadillac
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