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ARH Starter Fit Issue

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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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Default ARH Starter Fit Issue

Finished up my ARH header install. Both sides slid in very easy but now I am having trouble getting the starter back in. I don't think I could have gotten the header in with the starter installed?

Anybody have any tips on how to position the starter to slide it in between the primaries and the K member? Is this the correct way to get it back in.....looks like the only way to get it to mate up?


I will say the headers slid in with tremendous ease, can't say enough about how great they fit.....just having trouble getting the starter back in.

I will say I will never do a set of engine mounts in the car again.....what a PITA. Mounts were easy to replace but getting the mount bolts in on the driver side, and getting the center bolt in on the passenger side took me 8 hours.

Tks for the advice.....
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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yeah motor mounts are a pita. take your time and maybe put the back end of the starter in first.

Last edited by 01ssreda4; Jan 5, 2009 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 08:24 PM
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My LT's were installed with the started in place. I don't think that the starter can be installed or removed with them in place.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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I have the 1 7/8th with a BMR Kmember that has the build in LS1 engine stands. I also have no AC. Ive put the starter in after the headers were in, I just had to put the long bolt in the starter as I put it in the installed placement. You put the rear end on the starter in 1st, and kinda set on the the Kmember/rack, wired it there. And pushed it back into place, your might be hitting the AC lines going into the back of compressor? So maybe you have to loose the compressor, or if you have a stock Kmeber maybe unbolt that side castiron engine stand, with a 2x6 and jack under the oil pan? But mine fits with them in place.
These pics might help, I was gona upload a bunch of pics, and make a thread about how ARH fit, just to link to it for everyone at that asked about them. And everypne else to post how great theres fit Mine fit great I love them.


Last edited by studderin; Jan 4, 2009 at 10:34 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 12:11 AM
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I did an install of the 1 3/4 ARHs, and the install was SOOO easy, I kicked myself for having QTPs before.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 07:20 AM
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I slid mine right in without removing the starter.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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Thanks for the input. I was tired last night and gave up so I need to give it another try with your suggestions. I have a stock K member so that may be where the difference is. Worse case, I may have to undo the cast iron mount to jack the engine up a bit. I really hate to mess with those mounts after the PITA I had.

Can't belive that with the great fit of the ARH they did not allow for starter removal/replacement with the headers in place.

I am going to give ARH a call tomorrow to discuss with them.

Originally Posted by studderin
I have the 1 7/8th with a BMR Kmember that has the build in LS1 engine stands. I also have no AC. Ive put the starter in after the headers were in, I just had to put the long bolt in the starter as I put it in the installed placement. You put the rear end on the starter in 1st, and kinda set on the the Kmember/rack, wired it there. And pushed it back into place, your might be hitting the AC lines going into the back of compressor? So maybe you have to loose the compressor, or if you have a stock Kmeber maybe unbolt that side castiron engine stand, with a 2x6 and jack under the oil pan? But mine fits with them in place.
These pics might help, I was gona upload a bunch of pics, and make a thread about how ARH fit, just to link to it for everyone at that asked about them. And everypne else to post how great theres fit Mine fit great I love them.

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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 08:14 PM
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Would it not be easier to just pull that header back off and reinstall the starter? Especially if they really slide right in.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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Problem solved!

Long story short I have determined that there is not enough room to remove/install starter with headers installed and stock K memeber.

Solution: we have a gear drive starter which allows the motor to be removed from the gear drive/solenoid assembly. There are two through bolts that hold the starter on to the assembly. I removed the bolts and motor, being careful to not drop the gears out. This allows the assembly to easy slide in place and for real easy access to wire connections. Finally, the motor is slid into place and reattached to the gear assembly. Too easy!

The only slightly difficult thing is to reattach the starter wire to the solenoid, which can be done by reaching from the front of the K member, through to the back of the starter.

I can't take credit for this idea as it came from my good bud Tim. Fortunatelly, he has experience working on R22 helicopters which require the same approach. Thank God we have a gear drive starter and not a direct drive shaft type!

I took lots of picture and plan to do a write up for others who may run into this problem.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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Maybe. I used the Stage 8 locking bolts and those clips were a little difficult to put on.

BTW, I don't think unbolting the iron pedestals and jacking would have helped; those jokers were what my starter was hitting on trying to back it in and I don't belive lifting it a few inches would have worked. Thanks for all the great suggestions and help including picks....You da man.

Originally Posted by SidewayzOZ
Would it not be easier to just pull that header back off and reinstall the starter? Especially if they really slide right in.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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I have the 1 7/8 AR headers and I had my starter out doing the PITA motor mount install as well...haha... I got the starter in pretty easy. The problem I had with my ARH's was putting the dip stick tube in and the Y-pipe was so close to the trans crossmember in the back corner. I just took the plasma cutter out and trimmed the crossmember a tad. Also my Catback won't slip up on to the Y-Pipe. Got to take the intermediate pipe off of the catback off and have it expanded just a hair....
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 11:02 PM
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i just had this issued. i had these headers for a year or so and i just put them on. i just unbolted the 1 7/8 ARH and put the starter in and then bolted them back up. i didnt remove the header from the car just unbolted it and slid it down a little bit . the hardest part is bolting the headers back up when you don't have any help. you need to align the bolt holes and hold the header at the same time. these headers didn't slide in as easy as my pacesetters did but it may be because they are larger. also, i noticed that the y-pipe is a little longer than the TSP y-pipe that i had before. overall, the fit is great.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cals400ex
i just had this issued. i had these headers for a year or so and i just put them on. i just unbolted the 1 7/8 ARH and put the starter in and then bolted them back up. i didnt remove the header from the car just unbolted it and slid it down a little bit . the hardest part is bolting the headers back up when you don't have any help. you need to align the bolt holes and hold the header at the same time. these headers didn't slide in as easy as my pacesetters did but it may be because they are larger. also, i noticed that the y-pipe is a little longer than the TSP y-pipe that i had before. overall, the fit is great.

This was going to be my answer. As for alignment issues with th y-pipe everything should be fitted loosly then tighten everything up from the headers back while watching your alignment
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 08:37 PM
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No doubt I could have gotten it in with the header loose, I was just lazy looking for another option. Turned out to work well. All in all the headers fit very well and were very easy to slide in place, but this was my first header install on an F body.

The ARH header product was of high quality consistant with all the comments on the board. Would buy them again in a heart beat.

Thanks Tom.

Originally Posted by Tom@ARH
This was going to be my answer. As for alignment issues with th y-pipe everything should be fitted loosly then tighten everything up from the headers back while watching your alignment
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 11:35 PM
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like i said, i was happy as well. i was really happy with the y-pipe. good quality and it doesn't hit the floorboard like my tsp y-pipe did.
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