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Did you have this problem after LT install??

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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:13 PM
  #21  
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you installed something incorrectly. get under there and make sure you have the o2s hooked up right. then clear all those codes and the active ones will reset. go from there.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
You sure about that Anthony? When i got my LTs in and del. the rear 02s, i was throwing an SES light with my OEM front O2s.. This was back in 2007. So talked to my tuner, he told me to take one of my rear O2s and swap it out. Low and behold it fixed my problems. My LTFT were back on track and i ahve not seen an SES light til that day

The reason why I'm saying this is because his car isn't running nearly as hard as it should. Having a rear O2 in the front would compromise performance.

Granted, my car didn't run that well after LT's. I gained 35rwhp/40rwtq by tuning them because they threw off my tune so badly. However, I had no O2 or MAF problems, so I'm still going to go with the O2's hooked up incorrectly.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
Get the bosch 13111 Corvettes O2s and tune out the rear O2s and be donw with it
Don't get Bosch. They're junk and have a higher problem rate than AC Delco or Denso's. I kept my stock O2's and just got extensions to avoid the frequent problems tuners have due to the frequently slow Bosch 13111 sensor.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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Ok, well I'm going to go check this out as soon as it stops raining. Also, what about the reverse and skip-shift code??? Ever since those codes its hard as hell to get into reverse.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Lt1Porsche
Not trying to hi-jack but what is the difference between the Corvette and F-Body O2S?
Originally Posted by SSmokin99
Where can I get those and how much will they cost? Also what year Corvettes did those bosch 13111 come in? What's the difference between those and our stock O2's???
You can get them at autozone and Im sure O'reilly or any other parts store. They were 140 for the pair at my local autozone with a one year warranty. The difference is they dont need extensions they are long enough to reach on their own and some. Its smart to buy them instead of extensions because you are gonna spend 40 on extensions you might as well buy new 02's since your stockers have some miles on them. If you buy extensions then have your stockers go bad you are in the situation the OP is in. You have 40 in extensions and now have to buy new o2's anyway....
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 12:54 AM
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Ok, well I have O2 extension's so it looks like I won't need the Bosche 13111. I'm going to check out my car tomorrow (if it doesn't rain). I'll keep everyone posted.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 02:17 PM
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So what was the verdict? Did two new front O2's fix the problem?
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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Ok, I found out the problem. I jacked my car up and it turns out that my O2 extensions were all burnt from my headers. I plugged in a new O2 extension and all those codes are now gone, BUT I'm still throwing codes (3).

P0102- Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input.
P0801- Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfuntion.
P0803- 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Ciruit Malfunction.

I cleaned my MAF and I even switched with my friends MAF and its still throwing the code. The connectors seem fine and not corroded.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 04:32 PM
  #29  
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Did you put in a resistor for the skip shift?
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
Did you put in a resistor for the skip shift?
Well when I bought the car in '03 the previous owner had already eliminated the skip shift.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 04:51 AM
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Anyone?
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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Just buy the skip-shift eliminator module and be done with it. Its cheap.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 04:47 AM
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Ok, I wanted to bump this thread since the other day I actually found out the other O2 problem. I was still having problems with the driver side O2 so me and my boy checked my car out and.... my dumb *** was plugging the driver side O2 to the rear harness instead of the front where it should've been in the first place. We went for a test drive and both O2's seemed to work well. They were bouncing from 400-900ish. I have a question that someone asked me on another forum and I was wondering if you guys knew the answer

"Do LS1s not have the same system as everyone else where the ECU goes into Open Loop when at WOT, meaning the O2 sensors feedback is no longer used by the ECU?

So regardless of whether your O2 sensors are functioning properly, your WOT performance would not be affected"
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SSmokin99
Ok, I wanted to bump this thread since the other day I actually found out the other O2 problem. I was still having problems with the driver side O2 so me and my boy checked my car out and.... my dumb *** was plugging the driver side O2 to the rear harness instead of the front where it should've been in the first place. We went for a test drive and both O2's seemed to work well. They were bouncing from 400-900ish. I have a question that someone asked me on another forum and I was wondering if you guys knew the answer

"Do LS1s not have the same system as everyone else where the ECU goes into Open Loop when at WOT, meaning the O2 sensors feedback is no longer used by the ECU?

So regardless of whether your O2 sensors are functioning properly, your WOT performance would not be affected"
i dont know much about this a tuner would be your best bet, but im pretty sure our cars have open and closed loop. i thought if something was off though they go into a kind of limp mode to make sure you dont burn anything up...take that with a grain of salt till someone else chimes in. i dont know a lot about the computer system
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 02:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SSmokin99
Ok, I wanted to bump this thread since the other day I actually found out the other O2 problem. I was still having problems with the driver side O2 so me and my boy checked my car out and.... my dumb *** was plugging the driver side O2 to the rear harness instead of the front where it should've been in the first place. We went for a test drive and both O2's seemed to work well. They were bouncing from 400-900ish. I have a question that someone asked me on another forum and I was wondering if you guys knew the answer

"Do LS1s not have the same system as everyone else where the ECU goes into Open Loop when at WOT, meaning the O2 sensors feedback is no longer used by the ECU?

So regardless of whether your O2 sensors are functioning properly, your WOT performance would not be affected"

Im almost positive you are right. At WOT I belive Ls1's stop using more then just the o2's. Like said above talk to a tuner they would know better but these cars do go into a open loop at WOT
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 02:39 PM
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I'm thinking the same thing. Guy I knew Said his car ran kinda choppy at wide open throttle. He thought it was the 02 sensors but I didn't think so because when you go WOT the ECU has a preset determination. It doesn't take readings off the 02's and try to adjust at WOT. This is what I was always told.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 02:43 PM
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i'm almost positive i know what' up with your car. there's a fuse that when it blows it'll set the maf, reverse lockout, O2's, etc codes. i forgot which fuse it was but the same thing happed to my car and i replaced the fuse and it fixed it.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dutinsss
i'm almost positive i know what' up with your car. there's a fuse that when it blows it'll set the maf, reverse lockout, O2's, etc codes. i forgot which fuse it was but the same thing happed to my car and i replaced the fuse and it fixed it.
I fixed the reverse lockout problem long time ago. It was a fuse...
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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They ignore the 02's completely at WOT (open loop).
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SSmokin99
"Do LS1s not have the same system as everyone else where the ECU goes into Open Loop when at WOT, meaning the O2 sensors feedback is no longer used by the ECU?

So regardless of whether your O2 sensors are functioning properly, your WOT performance would not be affected"
First check the engine sensors fuse... if that is not blown then read this:

You do go open loop when you are WOT, which means no O2 sensor feedback. Open loop (power enrich) uses a combination of speed density (manifold pressure/temperature) and MAF, I believe based on RPM - If I am correct at high RPM it runs off pure MAF, however since you have an MAF failed code it might remain in speed density. In either case, however, with a failed MAF you are probably getting worse than normal WOT performance assuming you are untuned.

You need to figure out the MAF issue - since you tried another MAF with the same results it could be a wiring or PCM issue (I assume you cleared the code when you changed it out since the code will stay there for several cycles even if the problem goes away). One thing you could do is just unplug the MAF all together, which will force the car to run in speed density. If it runs better you know the MAF is hurting you. If you can get access to a good scan tool you can drive around and see how your mass flow rate changes with respect to TPS and speed density estimated mass flow and see if that helps you diagnose the MAF issue.... you will also be able to check that your O2's are switching properly in closed loop (will bounce between 100-900 mv) and open loop (should peg "high" for a rich condition). good luck!

As far as the skip shift/ reverse issues I would check for shorts or lose wires... not really sure what is going on but sounds like your reverse solenoid is failed to lockout and the skip shift is failed to allow 1-2 shifts all the time (which is what you want, but without the code which is the purpose of the resistor).
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