My catch can routing ok?
you guys are just trying to block off or redirect crankcase pressure instead of getting rid of it. be careful your about to pop a dipstick or rear main seal.
What can I do?
Basically, both valve covers "T" connected to the catch can "in" and the "out" to a small filter. SD tuned.
Last edited by ragtopz28; Feb 9, 2017 at 02:43 PM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
By all means set me straight on the best set up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...k-dsc04629.jpg
What about those "breathers" that replace the oil cap, they any good?
Trying to vent crankcase pressure here....
The engine is either at idle or WFO (again this is a drag only car)!
Thanks,
Last edited by ragtopz28; Feb 10, 2017 at 06:54 PM.
If you are over stock hp i would look to doing a little bit more at least than the current setup. Or just try it out and see how it does. if it pops the dipstick up or rear main seal out then it is not enough.
IMO the intake manifold connection is not a big component of crankcase pressure control.
Most engine breathers also partially or completely defeat pcv function, so if that ends up being something you want to maintain then I would look at the types that are exit only, so that they seal during pcv vacuum. If not interested in pcv i would look to the type that have good baffling since you can get direct splashing from the pushrod in this spot.
-not have the fumes released to the atmosphere
-keep smell down
-keep oil out of the intake
-release crankcase pressure so that I don't blow my rear main seal
-ensure blowby fumes are not consumed so that power is made with fresh air
-no vacuum leak
-don't allow unmetered air into the system at WOT
My routing is:

and I'm using this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-300104
No idea how this can plays into it all, as it looks like a simple can with 2 ports and a breather on top. I'm assuming that to achieve these goals, I need to run a different can? I can remove the breather on my current setup and cap the can, to get rid of the fumes, but then I'm not adding any ventilation capability. Also won't all of the blowby fumes be force consumed, causing power to be made by those fumes and not fresh air? I see that the MM PCV mild can has a breather on the top. How's the fumes on that setup?
Does the catch can being used in this image below have a breather on it and how is the smell on that setup? I'm wanting to modify my existing setup if possible to achieve my goals listed above. Can it be done with re-routing, minor changes or do I need a new $150-$200 can?
https://www.c-f-m.com/performancepar...it-748p340.htm
https://www.c-f-m.com/performancepar...it-748p340.htm
Had I known what needed to be done in the first place, I would have went with the MM can and saved myself money.
pcv system must always be clean air in one end of the engine (measured by the MAF if you have one) dirty air out to pcv valve, line from pcv valve to intake manifold. catch can could be before or after the pcv valve but there can only be one hose between valve and intake manifold








