ARP Crank Pulley Bolt?
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Dallas, Tejas
ARP Crank Pulley Bolt? Looking for the torque specs and installation proceedure for an ARP crank pulley bolt for an LS1. Any help is appreciated. I searched and found that its a 27mm 12 point head.
thanks
Jesse
thanks
Jesse
Using the factory GM bolt:
1. Use your old bolt to install the damper and torque to 240 ft/lbs, then remove it. This is to seat the damper completely.
2. Install your new bolt and tighten to 37 ft/lbs.
3. This step is to get a reference on the front of the engine. With the torque wrench hanging at the spot where the 37 ft/lbs was achieved, reference 140° clockwise for another tightening cycle. Put a mark or a piece of tape where you need to tighten.
4. Then go another 140° from the 37 ft/lbs start point and you are now tight. (We also recommend Loctite here if you are doing any High Performance Driving with this engine.
For an aftermarket ARP Bolt use Red Loctite and tighten to 250 ft/lbs.
1. Use your old bolt to install the damper and torque to 240 ft/lbs, then remove it. This is to seat the damper completely.
2. Install your new bolt and tighten to 37 ft/lbs.
3. This step is to get a reference on the front of the engine. With the torque wrench hanging at the spot where the 37 ft/lbs was achieved, reference 140° clockwise for another tightening cycle. Put a mark or a piece of tape where you need to tighten.
4. Then go another 140° from the 37 ft/lbs start point and you are now tight. (We also recommend Loctite here if you are doing any High Performance Driving with this engine.
For an aftermarket ARP Bolt use Red Loctite and tighten to 250 ft/lbs.
In case you get confused by the post above, steps 1-4 are for the GM torque-to-yield bolt. The ARP just gets torqued down to 250-ish lb/ft (I think the actual spec I found from ARP was 247 lb/ft).
Or just use the ARP and crank it down to 250ish?
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Nope - when I go to install it, I just use a pulley installer to pull it all the way down onto the snout, take the puller out, and install the ARP bolt and crank it down to 250-ish (with the car in 6th gear, parking brake on).
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Keying the crank damper isn't the problem - the stock or ARP bolt would need to be torqued properly regardless. The only beef I ever had with the stock bolt is that it is a torque to yield design - that means one use, and one use only. The ARP can be reused - plus I don't have to measure the degrees of rotation with the ARP.
DO NOT PULL THE DAMPER ON WITH A BOLT!
make sure you use some type of tool, or a stud with some nuts and washers.
you dont have to get it to 250 pd ft. just get it as tight as you possibly can.
its not going anywhere. even if it does, that balancer isnt comming off, IMO.
make sure you use some type of tool, or a stud with some nuts and washers.
you dont have to get it to 250 pd ft. just get it as tight as you possibly can.
its not going anywhere. even if it does, that balancer isnt comming off, IMO.
