I have done 20 plus of these this way. Only had 1 or 2 that would not go on all the way. You must make sure to heat it up really good or it will stick 1/2 way on.

 

Ok I got mine installed, I couldn't find a stud today so I got creative. I heated it to 350 in the oven, then used the swivel piece of my floor jack to hammer the living **** out of it and it went on, didn't use the bolt at all to push it on.

 

I am glad that is not my balancer....

 

It didn't leave any marks at all on the balancer, but my jack piece needs some file work. It's just the stock one, I didn't put the SLP back on.

 

even though its not an aftermarket one i dont think i would have pounded it. but if its on and all is well, congrats.

 

This is how I did it too - no problems. Actually I think I tried a 10.9 bolt but it bent, but I think that was operator error. I wound up making it work with an 11.8? bolt instead? Good 'ol Fastenal.

 

OK where the **** do you get one of these? I don't need 100 of them like I'm finding nor a full meter of the damn ****. I just want one about 150mm long. That's it.

 

I just got the 3' (1 meter) stick and cut it. It doesnt matter what you need, if you have to get a meter....get a meter. Your making it hard on yourself.

I happen to have a bolt store that only deals in metric bolts too, so that helps.

 

I got mine from :
McMaster-Carr. It was M16 X 2mm X 300 mm (length). I think the part number was
93325A345 "Metric B7 Alloy steel threaded rod

 

The meters were also in the $30-$40 range, no thanks.

 

I'll try that thanks.

 

I went to fastenal for mine and I think I spent 20-30 bucks on all the parts. I bought a meter long rod too and have some left over along with a few nuts.

 

Go to FASTENAL! I think mine was a 180 or 200 mm long 11.8 grade bolt, threaded all the way to the head. It ran me $11. Buy a nut and a couple washers, too. I know some guys do it with regular all-thread, but why chance it? Get a long bolt, and treat it like a threaded rod ->

1) Get the nut and run it all the way up the bolt to the head of the bolt, and then put a couple washers on.

2) Place the pulley on the crank.

3) Lube everything. The pulley/crank surface and the threads on the bolt.

4) Thread that bolt (with the washers and the nut on it) into the snout of the crank until it softly bottoms out. I would back it out half a turn after it bottoms out.

5) Start running the nut and the washers down the bolt until the washers and nut start pushing against the pulley, pulling the pulley onto the crankshaft.

5) Keep on tightening until the pulley is where you want it. Be smart. If something doesn't feel right, trust your gut and stop. Make sure the pulley is going on straight. Make sure the bolt or rod or whatever you use isn't bending. Try not to bend the bolt as you tighten the nut... it's going to get tight. Make sure your mating surfaces are clean and free of gouges, etc.

6) After you have the crank where you want it, loosen the nut and take the bolt out.

It worked for me... and if I can do it, it can't be that hard.

-Dave

 

That does change things, i wouldnt pay $30 or $40 either.

A meter here is about $8.00

 

a guy on here makes a tool an sells it for 45 bucks,.............?

 

That's what I've been finding on the web anyway. The industrial supply store had all thread but he said it was equivalent to only grade 2 or so. I got a free loan a tool harmonic balancer installer at Autozone but it's too short.

 

So you just tighten the thing till it bottoms out right? I'm installing an ATI dampener and will just be putting the hub on then bolting the actual balancer to that. What does it bottom out on, the crank timing chain sprocket?

 

you dont have to buy a tap for that. cut about 2-3 slits in the end of the old bolt about 1/4-1/2 inch long going against the threads (like longways) make the cuts go into the old bolt deeper then the threads are cut. that will help recut the damaged threads and the slits act as teeth plus gives the shavings somewhere to go. a machinist showed me that once and it works everytime. o yeah and use some cutting/threading oil to lube it up.

 

I just got done with mine and wanted to update this thread with what I did. I did the same thing as you basically. I put the balancer in my vise, put the propane torch to the hub and left it and went back and finished bolting on the timing cover.

I let the torch(the one you buy at lowes for like 10 bucks) heat up the balancer hub for like 5 minutes. I got my welding gloves on, and took the balancer out of the vise and quickly to the crank. a firm push installed it all the way in. no need to mess with any bolts or anything like that.

only thing Im somewhat concerned about is if I got it hot enough to damage the timing cover seal. I dont think so but I'll find out in a few weeks or so when I start the engine

 

You wouldn't get 20 feet from my car. I bet your thrust bearing took a nasty beating. Do you even know what a thrust bearing is? I really love it when people come on a website and expect praise for creativity when its actually stupidity.