balancer install
03-15-2009, 08:48 AM
#21
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I have done 20 plus of these this way. Only had 1 or 2 that would not go on all the way. You must make sure to heat it up really good or it will stick 1/2 way on.
03-15-2009, 09:11 PM
#22
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Ok I got mine installed, I couldn't find a stud today so I got creative. I heated it to 350 in the oven, 
then used the swivel piece of my floor jack to hammer the living **** out of it and it went on, didn't use the bolt at all to push it on.
then used the swivel piece of my floor jack to hammer the living **** out of it and it went on, didn't use the bolt at all to push it on. 
03-16-2009, 09:32 AM
#26
This is how I did it too - no problems. Actually I think I tried a 10.9 bolt but it bent, but I think that was operator error. I wound up making it work with an 11.8? bolt instead? Good 'ol Fastenal.
I went to the bolt store and got a m16x2.0 grade 10.9 6"long bolt and 3 large washers all of $5 anti-seized the bolt and washers and installed that way. There was a good 1 1/4 of bolt threaded into the crank! Tightened untill the bolt threads bottomed out, removed bolt and proceeded with the old bolt. Bada bing
03-16-2009, 09:23 PM
#29
OK where the **** do you get one of these? I don't need 100 of them like I'm finding nor a full meter of the damn ****. I just want one about 150mm long. That's it.
McMaster-Carr. It was M16 X 2mm X 300 mm (length). I think the part number was
93325A345 "Metric B7 Alloy steel threaded rod
03-16-2009, 09:28 PM
#32
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I went to fastenal for mine and I think I spent 20-30 bucks on all the parts. I bought a meter long rod too and have some left over along with a few nuts.
03-16-2009, 11:05 PM
#33
Go to FASTENAL! I think mine was a 180 or 200 mm long 11.8 grade bolt, threaded all the way to the head. It ran me $11. Buy a nut and a couple washers, too. I know some guys do it with regular all-thread, but why chance it? Get a long bolt, and treat it like a threaded rod ->
1) Get the nut and run it all the way up the bolt to the head of the bolt, and then put a couple washers on.
2) Place the pulley on the crank.
3) Lube everything. The pulley/crank surface and the threads on the bolt.
4) Thread that bolt (with the washers and the nut on it) into the snout of the crank until it softly bottoms out. I would back it out half a turn after it bottoms out.
5) Start running the nut and the washers down the bolt until the washers and nut start pushing against the pulley, pulling the pulley onto the crankshaft.
5) Keep on tightening until the pulley is where you want it. Be smart. If something doesn't feel right, trust your gut and stop. Make sure the pulley is going on straight. Make sure the bolt or rod or whatever you use isn't bending. Try not to bend the bolt as you tighten the nut... it's going to get tight. Make sure your mating surfaces are clean and free of gouges, etc.
6) After you have the crank where you want it, loosen the nut and take the bolt out.
It worked for me... and if I can do it, it can't be that hard.
-Dave
1) Get the nut and run it all the way up the bolt to the head of the bolt, and then put a couple washers on.
2) Place the pulley on the crank.
3) Lube everything. The pulley/crank surface and the threads on the bolt.
4) Thread that bolt (with the washers and the nut on it) into the snout of the crank until it softly bottoms out. I would back it out half a turn after it bottoms out.
5) Start running the nut and the washers down the bolt until the washers and nut start pushing against the pulley, pulling the pulley onto the crankshaft.
5) Keep on tightening until the pulley is where you want it. Be smart. If something doesn't feel right, trust your gut and stop. Make sure the pulley is going on straight. Make sure the bolt or rod or whatever you use isn't bending. Try not to bend the bolt as you tighten the nut... it's going to get tight. Make sure your mating surfaces are clean and free of gouges, etc.
6) After you have the crank where you want it, loosen the nut and take the bolt out.
It worked for me... and if I can do it, it can't be that hard.
-Dave
03-17-2009, 12:48 PM
#36
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That's what I've been finding on the web anyway. The industrial supply store had all thread but he said it was equivalent to only grade 2 or so. I got a free loan a tool harmonic balancer installer at Autozone but it's too short.
04-24-2009, 10:06 PM
#38
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you dont have to buy a tap for that. cut about 2-3 slits in the end of the old bolt about 1/4-1/2 inch long going against the threads (like longways) make the cuts go into the old bolt deeper then the threads are cut. that will help recut the damaged threads and the slits act as teeth plus gives the shavings somewhere to go. a machinist showed me that once and it works everytime. o yeah and use some cutting/threading oil to lube it up.
10-26-2010, 10:34 PM
#39
I let the torch(the one you buy at lowes for like 10 bucks) heat up the balancer hub for like 5 minutes. I got my welding gloves on, and took the balancer out of the vise and quickly to the crank. a firm push installed it all the way in. no need to mess with any bolts or anything like that.
only thing Im somewhat concerned about is if I got it hot enough to damage the timing cover seal. I dont think so but I'll find out in a few weeks or so when I start the engine
10-27-2010, 12:58 AM
#40
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