quick? im assuming that since no crank key ,it doesnt matter how the pulley goes on,is this right
thanks

 

correct

 

Do you have a install tool or a longer bolt?

 

yes,this is my first ls1,im old school chevys big blocks,just wanted to make sure no certain way pulley went on,since no keyway

 

Technically, it's not a balancer like the older Chevy engines. These engines are internally balanced. It's a pulley. Do you have the correct install procedure steps? It's crucial that you do it right, especially if you are using the stock bolt. It's a stretch to torque bolt and not a standard bolt.

 

right, i would read up and be careful about stripping crank threads.

 

Personally, I use a small piece of M16x2 all thread and thread it all the way into the crank. So its basically a crank stud, then I can install the "dampner" with a washer and a nut. Then remove the stud and torque in the factory bolt.

 

i still like hawks tool although it is a bit expensive. im glad i bought it though.

 

i have to do one on my 99, do you have to pull the fans out or is there enough room to loosen that bolt and get it off?

 

+1 on hawks, great tool worth the money

 

you can leave the fans on although it is a pretty tight fit.

 

yeah i also recomend a full length rod rather than longer bolt. to easy to strip threads with the bolt. dont ask how i know...

 

Exactly, I stripped out a crank....not a good feeling. The stud will stop that from happening for sure!

I had to tap and re-thread the crank to the next larger size bolt

 

I heated my with a propane torch, just the hub area and it slid almost all the way on by hand. I then pulled it the rest of the way on with the old bolt torqued it and thenm put the new bolt in and finished torquing it down. Went on easy heating the hub area.

 

Ok this is on the same subject as mine. I started using the bolt to install and it got REALLY stiff and stripped out a few threads. I know there's plenty of threads left, but I don't want to use the bolt again and ruin the rest of the threads. What's this tool you guys speak of? Link?

 

The bolt store, M16x2 all thread, a nut, all costing $10 = a tool without research needed.

 

x1000 for the threaded rod, just did it on my first cam swap and it went on in less than 2 mins with no binding and very little force. Great way to go for under $15

 

Sweet i'll go pick one up tomorrow and give her a go. Hopefully it works, that's the only thing holding up the final touches of my build.

 

you may want to get a tap to. if you chewed up the first threads i wouldnt put anything in there until a tap goes all the way in.

 

I went to the bolt store and got a m16x2.0 grade 10.9 6"long bolt and 3 large washers all of $5 anti-seized the bolt and washers and installed that way. There was a good 1 1/4 of bolt threaded into the crank! Tightened untill the bolt threads bottomed out, removed bolt and proceeded with the old bolt. Bada bing