balancer install

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Mar 13, 2009 | 10:40 PM

bad toys

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balancer install

quick? im assuming that since no crank key ,it doesnt matter how the pulley goes on,is this right
thanks

Mar 13, 2009 | 10:56 PM

quintenk

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correct

Mar 13, 2009 | 11:12 PM

mrhzk35404

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From: coatesville, pa

Do you have a install tool or a longer bolt?

Mar 14, 2009 | 01:10 AM

bad toys

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yes,this is my first ls1,im old school chevys big blocks,just wanted to make sure no certain way pulley went on,since no keyway

Mar 14, 2009 | 08:42 AM

HavATampa

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From: Louisiana

Technically, it's not a balancer like the older Chevy engines. These engines are internally balanced. It's a pulley. Do you have the correct install procedure steps? It's crucial that you do it right, especially if you are using the stock bolt. It's a stretch to torque bolt and not a standard bolt.

Mar 14, 2009 | 09:33 AM

01ssreda4

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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005

right, i would read up and be careful about stripping crank threads.

Mar 14, 2009 | 09:39 AM

SweetS10V8

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Personally, I use a small piece of M16x2 all thread and thread it all the way into the crank. So its basically a crank stud, then I can install the "dampner" with a washer and a nut. Then remove the stud and torque in the factory bolt.

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Mar 14, 2009 | 09:59 AM

Cohi

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From: Va

i have to do one on my 99, do you have to pull the fans out or is there enough room to loosen that bolt and get it off?

Mar 14, 2009 | 12:54 PM

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817Borla

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4

i still like hawks tool although it is a bit expensive. im glad i bought it though.

+1 on hawks, great tool worth the money

Mar 14, 2009 | 01:08 PM

#11

01ssreda4

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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cohi

i have to do one on my 99, do you have to pull the fans out or is there enough room to loosen that bolt and get it off?

you can leave the fans on although it is a pretty tight fit.

Mar 14, 2009 | 01:16 PM

#12

bigti99a

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yeah i also recomend a full length rod rather than longer bolt. to easy to strip threads with the bolt. dont ask how i know...

Mar 14, 2009 | 02:21 PM

#13

SweetS10V8

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Exactly, I stripped out a crank....not a good feeling. The stud will stop that from happening for sure!

I had to tap and re-thread the crank to the next larger size bolt

Mar 14, 2009 | 05:50 PM

#14

syclone74

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I heated my with a propane torch, just the hub area and it slid almost all the way on by hand. I then pulled it the rest of the way on with the old bolt torqued it and thenm put the new bolt in and finished torquing it down. Went on easy heating the hub area.

Mar 14, 2009 | 09:28 PM

#15

RyderTA

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From: Utah

Ok this is on the same subject as mine. I started using the bolt to install and it got REALLY stiff and stripped out a few threads. I know there's plenty of threads left, but I don't want to use the bolt again and ruin the rest of the threads. What's this tool you guys speak of? Link?

Mar 14, 2009 | 09:57 PM

#16

SweetS10V8

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From: Michigan

The bolt store, M16x2 all thread, a nut, all costing $10 = a tool without research needed.

Mar 14, 2009 | 10:45 PM

#17

jrpimp00

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From: Fayetteville, NC

x1000 for the threaded rod, just did it on my first cam swap and it went on in less than 2 mins with no binding and very little force. Great way to go for under $15

Mar 14, 2009 | 11:41 PM

#18

RyderTA

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From: Utah

Sweet i'll go pick one up tomorrow and give her a go. Hopefully it works, that's the only thing holding up the final touches of my build.

Mar 15, 2009 | 07:56 AM

#19

bigti99a

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you may want to get a tap to. if you chewed up the first threads i wouldnt put anything in there until a tap goes all the way in.

Mar 15, 2009 | 08:21 AM

#20

bonestock99

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From: concord, nc

I went to the bolt store and got a m16x2.0 grade 10.9 6"long bolt and 3 large washers all of $5 anti-seized the bolt and washers and installed that way. There was a good 1 1/4 of bolt threaded into the crank! Tightened untill the bolt threads bottomed out, removed bolt and proceeded with the old bolt. Bada bing

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