bad toys

quick? im assuming that since no crank key ,it doesnt matter how the pulley goes on,is this right
thanks

quintenk

iTrader: (1)

correct

mrhzk35404

iTrader: (7)

Do you have a install tool or a longer bolt?

bad toys

yes,this is my first ls1,im old school chevys big blocks,just wanted to make sure no certain way pulley went on,since no keyway

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Technically, it's not a balancer like the older Chevy engines. These engines are internally balanced. It's a pulley. Do you have the correct install procedure steps? It's crucial that you do it right, especially if you are using the stock bolt. It's a stretch to torque bolt and not a standard bolt.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

right, i would read up and be careful about stripping crank threads.

SweetS10V8

iTrader: (4)

Personally, I use a small piece of M16x2 all thread and thread it all the way into the crank. So its basically a crank stud, then I can install the "dampner" with a washer and a nut. Then remove the stud and torque in the factory bolt.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

i still like hawks tool although it is a bit expensive. im glad i bought it though.

Cohi

i have to do one on my 99, do you have to pull the fans out or is there enough room to loosen that bolt and get it off?

817Borla

iTrader: (5)

+1 on hawks, great tool worth the money

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

you can leave the fans on although it is a pretty tight fit.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

yeah i also recomend a full length rod rather than longer bolt. to easy to strip threads with the bolt. dont ask how i know...

SweetS10V8

iTrader: (4)

Exactly, I stripped out a crank....not a good feeling. The stud will stop that from happening for sure!

I had to tap and re-thread the crank to the next larger size bolt

syclone74

iTrader: (4)

I heated my with a propane torch, just the hub area and it slid almost all the way on by hand. I then pulled it the rest of the way on with the old bolt torqued it and thenm put the new bolt in and finished torquing it down. Went on easy heating the hub area.

RyderTA

iTrader: (3)

Ok this is on the same subject as mine. I started using the bolt to install and it got REALLY stiff and stripped out a few threads. I know there's plenty of threads left, but I don't want to use the bolt again and ruin the rest of the threads. What's this tool you guys speak of? Link?

SweetS10V8

iTrader: (4)

The bolt store, M16x2 all thread, a nut, all costing $10 = a tool without research needed.

jrpimp00

iTrader: (17)

x1000 for the threaded rod, just did it on my first cam swap and it went on in less than 2 mins with no binding and very little force. Great way to go for under $15

RyderTA

iTrader: (3)

Sweet i'll go pick one up tomorrow and give her a go. Hopefully it works, that's the only thing holding up the final touches of my build.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

you may want to get a tap to. if you chewed up the first threads i wouldnt put anything in there until a tap goes all the way in.

bonestock99

iTrader: (1)

I went to the bolt store and got a m16x2.0 grade 10.9 6"long bolt and 3 large washers all of $5 anti-seized the bolt and washers and installed that way. There was a good 1 1/4 of bolt threaded into the crank! Tightened untill the bolt threads bottomed out, removed bolt and proceeded with the old bolt. Bada bing