Help! Safe method to raise car for header install
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
yeah it is def easier to do it with the headers out of the way...but it does come down to money i guess...but 75 bucks for wires and plugs on ebay even is just cheap insurance
I learned long ago that it's not worth my time to try and replace the plugs on an F-body. Bother that. That's the ONE maintenance item I won't do.
If I don't have to remove them to get the headers on, I'll have them done when they're due, by someone I'm paying to suffer.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
You have to drive the front onto a pair 2x8's or maybe even four if your car is real low. Or jack each side up and slide 2x8's under each front tire. That should raise the front high enough to get a floor jack under the air dam and under the k-member.
Or if you ramp from the front you might have to repeat the process on the back if you want to raise the car from the rear too if the front is already on ramps in order to get a jack under the rear end pumpkin. Or jack from the side and slide boards under the rear tires.
I have a 2 sets of 2 X 10's each cut at a 45 degree angle on the front edge. The tires drive up easier cut at 45 degree. Boards want to slide forward on slippery concrete.
If fact I just got done raising and lowering my care to adjust pinion angle.
Or if you ramp from the front you might have to repeat the process on the back if you want to raise the car from the rear too if the front is already on ramps in order to get a jack under the rear end pumpkin. Or jack from the side and slide boards under the rear tires.
I have a 2 sets of 2 X 10's each cut at a 45 degree angle on the front edge. The tires drive up easier cut at 45 degree. Boards want to slide forward on slippery concrete.
If fact I just got done raising and lowering my care to adjust pinion angle.
Going to try installing my headers. I know the car has to be raised pretty high to do the install. What is a safe method to do this? I have seen a couple of pictures that looked VERY unsafe. Such as 4 x 4's under and on top of the jack stands. Don't want to get killed! Thank you
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Verdad Gallardo I have every intention of having someone else do it.
I learned long ago that it's not worth my time to try and replace the plugs on an F-body. Bother that. That's the ONE maintenance item I won't do.
If I don't have to remove them to get the headers on, I'll have them done when they're due, by someone I'm paying to suffer.
I learned long ago that it's not worth my time to try and replace the plugs on an F-body. Bother that. That's the ONE maintenance item I won't do.
If I don't have to remove them to get the headers on, I'll have them done when they're due, by someone I'm paying to suffer.
it's much easier to change them after a header install. what makes the plug change a nightmare is the emissions junk, manifold heat shields and the passenger side coils. removing the entire valve cover takes 5 minutes and gives u tons of room
plus there's a good chance u will break a few plugs during the header install.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
These stands are safe - 6 ton limit - Harbor Freight.
As you can see in the pic my stands are set to the lowest setting. Twenty-four inches is max. You will need an industrial strength jack however to raise the car 24 inches. You have to raise the car in steps (3-4 inches at a time) unless you have two jacks - one in the front, the other on the rear.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
Once you get the car raised - tires and rims under each tire is a safety net if the car actually slides off the jack stands. But that shouldn't happen if you put the jack stands under the axle tubes on the rear end. The jacks stands under the rear axle tubes should lock the car in place keeping in from shifting forward or backward or sideways on the front.
I would never use cinder blocks - they break too easy.
As you can see in the pic my stands are set to the lowest setting. Twenty-four inches is max. You will need an industrial strength jack however to raise the car 24 inches. You have to raise the car in steps (3-4 inches at a time) unless you have two jacks - one in the front, the other on the rear.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
Once you get the car raised - tires and rims under each tire is a safety net if the car actually slides off the jack stands. But that shouldn't happen if you put the jack stands under the axle tubes on the rear end. The jacks stands under the rear axle tubes should lock the car in place keeping in from shifting forward or backward or sideways on the front.
I would never use cinder blocks - they break too easy.
I had my car on 4 x 6 ton jack stands and had a cinder block underneath each wheel. There was a little bit of a gap between the cinder block and the front tires (rear was sitting on them), but I just had those there for piece of mind if for some reason the quality control guys was out to lunch the day sears mfg my jack stands. 
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
You will be unable to drive the car unto the ramps front and rear at the same time.
If fact if your car is lowered - dependent upon height of the ramps - you might have to drive unto 2x8's first raising the car and then from the 2x8's continue up the ramps in the front.
After the car is on ramps in the front, jack the car under the rearend pumpkin high enough and then slide the ramps under the rear tires.Do it all of the time.
Be careful when doing this because as you raise and lower the jack the car will be forced to roll forward or backward as you raise the jack. If raising the rearend first always block the front wheels to keep the car from rolling forward. When lowering the rearend first, always block the front wheels on the rear side to keep the car from rolling backward.
If fact if your car is lowered - dependent upon height of the ramps - you might have to drive unto 2x8's first raising the car and then from the 2x8's continue up the ramps in the front.
After the car is on ramps in the front, jack the car under the rearend pumpkin high enough and then slide the ramps under the rear tires.Do it all of the time.
Be careful when doing this because as you raise and lower the jack the car will be forced to roll forward or backward as you raise the jack. If raising the rearend first always block the front wheels to keep the car from rolling forward. When lowering the rearend first, always block the front wheels on the rear side to keep the car from rolling backward.
when i first got my car i thought the same but when the shop wanted over $500 i changed my mind.
it's much easier to change them after a header install. what makes the plug change a nightmare is the emissions junk, manifold heat shields and the passenger side coils. removing the entire valve cover takes 5 minutes and gives u tons of room
plus there's a good chance u will break a few plugs during the header install.
it's much easier to change them after a header install. what makes the plug change a nightmare is the emissions junk, manifold heat shields and the passenger side coils. removing the entire valve cover takes 5 minutes and gives u tons of room
plus there's a good chance u will break a few plugs during the header install.
I don't even know how to get the coils off.
Everything comes apart with bolts and nuts. Get a little repair manual and have at it. I had never even taken an intake manifold off up until a month ago, and the wife and I just finished replacing the passenger side head gasket, cam swap, springs, pushrods, etc etc etc. It wold take you about 10 minutes to take a valve cover off. Do eeet