Alternator goes up to 18v and dies, what's the deal?
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My alternator went out on me a few days ago, so I went to autozone to buy a new one. They didn't check it before I left and within 15 minutes of driving it was dead. I figured I was sold a bad alternator, so I went back to buy another one and this time they checked it worked before I bought it. With that one the alternator jumped up to 18v for a while (20 minutes of driving) and then failed completely. So I went back to autozone and brought in my yellow top battery since it didn't seem that it was holding a charge that well. After my alternator would die, the battery would only run my car (with all accessories off) for about 15 miles. They ran some test on the battery and said it was good, so I just replaced the alternator again and made sure there was a solid connection with the regulator inside the alternator.
The alternator ran fine since the last replacement (about 65 miles) and now my alternator is acting up again by shooting up to 18v and varies with RPM. This seems like a regulator problem but since the regulator is new with each alternator I get, I don't think that's the problem.
Could it possibly be the computer? What else could it be?
Thanks,
Andy
The alternator ran fine since the last replacement (about 65 miles) and now my alternator is acting up again by shooting up to 18v and varies with RPM. This seems like a regulator problem but since the regulator is new with each alternator I get, I don't think that's the problem.
Could it possibly be the computer? What else could it be?
Thanks,
Andy
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If you insist on aftermarket rebuilt crap, at least stop by a real parts store like a NAPA or O'Reillys.
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I checked the voltage and, sure enough, it's at 18v with the car on. The alternator carries a life time warranty; So I guess I'll try a new one. If this happens much longer, I'll probably buy a new regulator to go on the rebuilt alternator.
So is the consensus that it's most likely the poor quality regulator on the rebuilt alternators that is causing the issue?
So is the consensus that it's most likely the poor quality regulator on the rebuilt alternators that is causing the issue?