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Harmonic balancer bolt

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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 07:08 PM
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Default Harmonic balancer bolt

Okay, so here's the deal. Im installing a March Balancer and i bought a new GM Bolt. I rented a torque wrench from Oreilly's set it to 240 lb. ft. and go to torq'n, well after im drenched in sweat and red in the face the wrench never "clicks", I back it down to 150 ish, still nothing.... So i go to the lowest setting and nothing happens! F<*@!!!! <*&>$#! @!<?* ^%@*!!!!!!!!!!! So now im thinking this ****** is obviously over torqued. Drive another 25 mi. to exchange the wrench, get back set it to 240, click.... Set it high as it goes CLICK! Did not budge. Thats what i figured though.

Sooo, my question is do you guys think i should put it back in, torque it to 37 then another 90 deg. and run it?? Im pretty **** about **** like this, so im thinking not. It'll be monday before i can got to the stealership and get a new bolt. Do you guys think Oreilly's should remberse me for the bolt since they rented me faulty equipment?? Im just glad i stopped when i did before i stripped the threads or broke the bolt.
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 07:40 PM
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Isn't the spec 37 ft. lbs plus 140 deg?
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 09:12 PM
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Don't remove it unless you plan on replacing the bolt......it is torque to yield


I would just tighten it as much as you can and leave it
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by vsocks1
Isn't the spec 37 ft. lbs plus 140 deg?
Yes your right it is 140.

Originally Posted by AFASTYZFR1
Don't remove it unless you plan on replacing the bolt......it is torque to yield


I would just tighten it as much as you can and leave it
I know its torque to yeild.... The spec is 240, loosen, 37, then an additional 140 deg.

I over torqued it due to the torque wrench, therefore it would be over stretched and more likely to loosen or break under high RPM....
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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Might be reading it wrong, but you used the new bolt to install and attempted to torque to the 240, if so you were wrong in doing so. You should of used the old bolt and torqued to 240, removed, then put the new one on and torqued to 37. If not mistaken that 240 is just to get the pulley on. I used a rod and mine went on easy, after I got it in position, and flush I installed the new bolt and torqued to 37 and then stretched into place.
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 07:40 AM
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I bought a ARP and was done with it. Much easier than that TTY stuff.
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jrpimp00
Might be reading it wrong, but you used the new bolt to install and attempted to torque to the 240, if so you were wrong in doing so. You should of used the old bolt and torqued to 240, removed, then put the new one on and torqued to 37. If not mistaken that 240 is just to get the pulley on. I used a rod and mine went on easy, after I got it in position, and flush I installed the new bolt and torqued to 37 and then stretched into place.
This is the correct method with a GM bolt. After you torque the NEW bolt to 37 ft.lbs. you have to "stretch the bolt into place" by giving it an additional 140*.

To the OP, although you didn't use the correct method as per the book, my best guess is that you will be o.k. if you leave it as is.

It takes a ton of reefing to achieve 240 ft.lbs. If you overstretched the bolt, it wouldn't be by much. Even if you are **** about **** like this, feel confident that your balancer will not fall off.
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 08:22 AM
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You should have used to old bolt to get the 240 first.
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 08:49 AM
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ARP +1 , dont pull it out unless you wanna do it again
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 11:25 AM
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its fine, its super ******* tight, thats good enough
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jrpimp00
Might be reading it wrong, but you used the new bolt to install and attempted to torque to the 240, if so you were wrong in doing so. You should of used the old bolt and torqued to 240, removed, then put the new one on and torqued to 37. If not mistaken that 240 is just to get the pulley on. I used a rod and mine went on easy, after I got it in position, and flush I installed the new bolt and torqued to 37 and then stretched into place.
I was just doing it per March spec. It did not say to use the old bolt to seat the pulley it said use the new bolt, torque to 240, loosen the bolt, torque to 37, then an additional 1/3 turn (140 deg.) But now that i think about it when i did the cam swap couple years ago i did use the old bolt to seat it, then the new one to 37. Just going to get a new bolt tomorrow. Thanks for all the replies.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 05:00 PM
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We used a ARP stud, followed the factory torque specs and our balancer just fell off. Destroyed the balancer and the billet pulley on it.
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