Altenators, are the 5.3 one compatable?
They do put out more amps, 130-140 vs our 95, they are NOT compatible. Best just to get a high output aftermarket unit. Try Alterstart or Iraggi. Make sure you do your Big 3 first, will help, may solve your issue.
Yes, larger cables (I use 0 gauge) on 3 connections:
1. Battery NEG to ground
2. Batter POS to alternator
3. Engine to chassis ground
This maximizes the current flow on the entire circuit, easing strain and helping your alternator do its best. Don't do caps, Big 3 + good battery (Optima). Next stop - HO alternator.
1. Battery NEG to ground
2. Batter POS to alternator
3. Engine to chassis ground
This maximizes the current flow on the entire circuit, easing strain and helping your alternator do its best. Don't do caps, Big 3 + good battery (Optima). Next stop - HO alternator.
Yes, larger cables (I use 0 gauge) on 3 connections:
1. Battery NEG to ground
2. Batter POS to alternator
3. Engine to chassis ground
This maximizes the current flow on the entire circuit, easing strain and helping your alternator do its best. Don't do caps, Big 3 + good battery (Optima). Next stop - HO alternator.
1. Battery NEG to ground
2. Batter POS to alternator
3. Engine to chassis ground
This maximizes the current flow on the entire circuit, easing strain and helping your alternator do its best. Don't do caps, Big 3 + good battery (Optima). Next stop - HO alternator.
I have all of the big 3, except for the one from the engine to the chassis.
I have someone who rebuilds alts and starters. He says he can rebuild the stock one, and beef it up to put out more amps.
It's pollution to the system in my opinion. It's short term storage of power and can level out big spiky draws, however, it does add a drain to the system on startup and can make things act funny.
I would add the 3rd piece of the Big 3 to complete the charging circuit upgrade. Get an Optima or other premium battery and by all means, get the alternator rebuilt if you trust your buddy's work. Most HO units are simply rebuilt stockers anyway. Those 3 things will solve most any audio and charging problem.
why you say they arent compatible? I had an alterstart and it was a rewound truck alternator, physically bigger, but still bolted up and hooked up to the factory ****. The only difference is physical size, but as far as i have seen they all work, i dont know about the truck alternators after 2004 though, could be different. i havent checked.
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Cap = capacitor
It's pollution to the system in my opinion. It's short term storage of power and can level out big spiky draws, however, it does add a drain to the system on startup and can make things act funny.
I would add the 3rd piece of the Big 3 to complete the charging circuit upgrade. Get an Optima or other premium battery and by all means, get the alternator rebuilt if you trust your buddy's work. Most HO units are simply rebuilt stockers anyway. Those 3 things will solve most any audio and charging problem.
It's pollution to the system in my opinion. It's short term storage of power and can level out big spiky draws, however, it does add a drain to the system on startup and can make things act funny.
I would add the 3rd piece of the Big 3 to complete the charging circuit upgrade. Get an Optima or other premium battery and by all means, get the alternator rebuilt if you trust your buddy's work. Most HO units are simply rebuilt stockers anyway. Those 3 things will solve most any audio and charging problem.
Wondering, with the yellow top Optima in the back, whats a normal reading for the volts.
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Verdad Gallardo Couple of things:
Don't trust your dash voltmeter to be accurate, it's only an indicator. The needle can be moved too easily like when one installs an overlay and has to pull the needles. It may even be off from the factory.
If your battery is in the rear, this makes the Big3 MORE important. I would DEFINITELY run 0 gauge wire because the longer the run, the more current you lose and you need bigger cable to compensate.
Output in volts is less important than amps as something to measure. Optimas tend to put out a little more than regular batteries, but not more than 14.4 volts. You need to have your alternator tested, if it's good, keep it. How many amplifiers do you have? Add up the combined fuses for all of them and tell me the amperage you come up with. The OEM alt is pretty decent, better than the Delco replacements, which are better than any parts store unit. When is *****, do one of two things:
Replace it at a dealer, you get a lifetime parts AND labor warranty (I've used the hell outta mine)
Get a HO unit that has more output, especially at idle. An OEM unit that has been rebuilt/rewound is usually a good option.
Anything else is a waste of time.
Don't trust your dash voltmeter to be accurate, it's only an indicator. The needle can be moved too easily like when one installs an overlay and has to pull the needles. It may even be off from the factory.
If your battery is in the rear, this makes the Big3 MORE important. I would DEFINITELY run 0 gauge wire because the longer the run, the more current you lose and you need bigger cable to compensate.
Output in volts is less important than amps as something to measure. Optimas tend to put out a little more than regular batteries, but not more than 14.4 volts. You need to have your alternator tested, if it's good, keep it. How many amplifiers do you have? Add up the combined fuses for all of them and tell me the amperage you come up with. The OEM alt is pretty decent, better than the Delco replacements, which are better than any parts store unit. When is *****, do one of two things:
Replace it at a dealer, you get a lifetime parts AND labor warranty (I've used the hell outta mine)
Get a HO unit that has more output, especially at idle. An OEM unit that has been rebuilt/rewound is usually a good option.
Anything else is a waste of time.
why you say they arent compatible? I had an alterstart and it was a rewound truck alternator, physically bigger, but still bolted up and hooked up to the factory ****. The only difference is physical size, but as far as i have seen they all work, i dont know about the truck alternators after 2004 though, could be different. i havent checked.
I've had problems with my charging system for a while. My amp draws a lot of power and the only time the guage ever shows 13+ volts is with the stereo off and cruising at 70 mph. I tested the alternator and it's not fully charging. I work on BMWs and deal with Bosch a lot. I found a Bosh alternator that's a 102 amp instead of the factory 95. Would this be a bad buy or not? I can get it for $89 after core.
This is absolutely not the case. There must be something else wrong in your system. My guess is one weak battery, or more likely, a loose connection somewhere. Also, be very careful about using your dash volt gauge, they are horribly inaccurate.
