405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

If those threads don't help or you have additional questions, post up and I'll do my best to help.

There is some serious *bling* up there, but just two that work when routed correctly.

SSmokin99

iTrader: (7)

I just installed a catch can today and re-did my coolant lines for my LS6 intake. I had so much oil and gunk in my manifold and on the ports of my heads.

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

You seem very informative and like you know what the hell your talking about. I would like to know what is wrong with some of the other catch cans on the market. I liked the Rev Extreme and almost purchased one untill I came across a thread with people that had them. Alot of them were rattling and making noise. For instance, what is wrong with the Elite catch can. It seem to have all the features of the Rev without the built in PCV valve. Everything else looks good.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I'm about to install one..it's not one of them up there, I got ahold of a Aluminum Cylinder and I'm making my own. A key to this functioning very well is to baffle the Catch Can with something. Some people have used Steel Wool cause it doesn't break down.

Soul TKR

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Aaron...

after skimming through those threads I noticed A LOT of diagrams... which makes this subject even more confusing

I don't have the ls6 conversion valley cover done... so looking at those diagrams didn't help me much. Just confused me more...

I've removed my AIR and EGR stuff...

one thing I don't wanna do, is bolt a catch can to the head covering up my nice AFR logo... I'm proud of that!

I'm with ShortChevy, as to how come the "others" don't work as well as the RevExtreme or the Saikou Michi? They seem the same....????

Also, I'm a bit confused on this valve cover breather thing... is that needed? and if I put one on there, what's to keep the oil from shooting out through that little cone filter?









also if anyone has any better pictures of their RevExtreme or Saikou Michi catch cans... please post them up. I'm really interested in the bracket/mounting area as well. So that I can figure out if I can mount it somewhere else than the head...

edwardzracing

iTrader: (59)

A lot of them were rattling and making noise? They're supposed to... there is a PCV valve built into it. Mine rattled and made noise... but holey ****, wouldn't you believe it... it WORKS! Another cool thing... I don't hear the rattling or the noise when I'm sitting in my car driving (sense the disbelief in people that bitch about noises that are never heard while driving).

You can't go wrong with the RevXtreme can.

I'll try to post some pictures of my RevX setup tomorrow. If you're skeptical about buying a quality catch can that will help performance and extend the life of your high $$$ motor because it's going to hide the AFR logo on your passenger side head, then I wouldn't worry about getting a RevX can. I'm not really sure where else you could mount... but I guess it's possible. Plus it looks good and factory-like with the position it mounts in. Get the quality RevX can. It does what it's supposed to. Let the performance of the car speak for the heads... not a silly logo. Good luck on whatever route you decide to go with.

Brad

toadzq8

iTrader: (43)

Norris can Is nice and slim fits in close to the head better than the larger dia cans and it works!

Pharcyde50

iTrader: (11)

So which ones work the best? I'd like to know before I blow $100.

corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

I like mine from rev xtreme!!

2000WS6ICK

iTrader: (2)

Got my Norris from KY Speed.

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

+1. Personally I think the RevX is big and ugly and looks like it has a ricer sticker on it. They'll all work just fine, get which ever you like the looks of and fits your budget. My old catch can was made by some guy selling em on LS1.com. It was big and ugly and had no baffles inside but it worked and kept the intake bone dry. I replaced it soley due to appearance purposes after about 3 or 4 years.

MiniTransAm

iTrader: (3)

My recommendation is the RevXtreme can. My install looks exactly like the picture you posted. Catches alot of oil and even better, their customer service is awesome. I was unsure of my install and when I called Tracy (TLewis) walked me through it. After a problem with the can, Tracy said to send it back and he sent me an updated one the next day. I had bought the original can off a member here and it was the version 1 product apparently. He upgraded me to the newest one. Amazing customer service.

Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

I researched and bought mine from Mike Norris via Thunder I believe. I don't get a ton of stuff in it, but it works and looks great. It might fill a styrofoam coffee cup by 1/4 after 4-5000 miles.

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

OK,

oil seperating catchcan 101:

It seems most of you are looking at the external appearance only and that is where your missing it all.

1: You can take a coke can and add 2 fittings and it WILL trap some oil but a large amount is still going to get through to the intake.

2: any steel wool or other filter material will work great at first, but quickly becomes saturated and allows oil droplets to pull off and into the outlet and into the intake.

3: Anything less than a 1 qt capacity (2/qt for road race applications) does not have enough surface area for the temprature differential to condense the vapors/mists to droplets that can then be trapped in the can. The key is for the vapors to make contact with as much outer surface area possible to accomplish this (and ideally to mount your can as far from the engine as possible.....but most do not have the room in a street car so the pass cyclinder head works for most).

4: Just open up the cans that open and measure the distance from the inlet of the can to the outlet. Only an inch or two seperates most and there is NO way to prevent a good portion of the vapor/mist laden gasses to have a chance to condense to liquid droplets so your allowing a good amount of vapor/mist into the intake system.

5: A seperator with an integrated PCV check valve insures the proper amount of volume is pulled. Not to little & not to much and also prevents reversion back through a can where a fixed orfic cannot. Much of the issue is that the LS6 & newer have a fixed orfice tube in the crankcase ventalation system and NO form of one-way check valve. You can add one inline for any can though to accomplish this.

Many vendors on here sell most of the cans mentioned above so they are readily available, but think about the design. Just a great looking piece that is small and compact has no way to be highly effective. It can and will catch oil, but so will a soda can. All that most do is allow some of the gasses to swirl around and condense only a portion of the oil vapor/mist so a good amount still goes right into the intake. If the appearance is all you care about and want as effective of a small can as possible I would vote for the Norris can.....great quality and works the best of the small cans, but no can less than 1 qt capacity has the surface area to be truely effective in seperating the vast majority of oil out of the gasses pulled through. The key to the few that do work (and yes, at 1 qt they are large....but make the choice, eliminate your oil ingestion issue, or just reduce it for looks) is first the amount of external surface area. Then, how are the gasses routed to make sure the maximum area is contated with little just traveling right to the outlet? There units have a perforated dispersion tube that runs from the inlet down the center of the can evenly dispersing the gasses to contact as much outer surface as possible condensing the vapors to droplets with plenty of area to collect and not be drawn back out. Also, the most effective one has a series of circlular baffels the further force the gasses to travel completely to and through the bottom portion and back up the outer sides to again cool further with a isolated baffel at the top so there is no possible way for any of the gasses to cross right out between the inlet & outlet. And last, if a PCV/checkvalve does NOT rattle, then it has clogged and is not functioning. There are proper flow one way checkvalves available to place inline that would be quieter but as mentioned, I have never been able to hear the rattle from inside a car or with the hood shut....just as all pre 2000 motors used the same type PCV valve.


So, please read & re-read this post and ask questions.......the idea here is to understand the function and design and why some work better than others and why. Outside appearance is great if looks is all your concerned about, but function is what gives the desired results and anyone that has removed their cyl heads and seen the amount of oil/carbon buildup on the piston tops & intake valve stems kows the reduced power that motor makes and the detonation that oil vapor/mist causes by reducing the useable octaine is not good period.


I'm sure 405hp-Z06 has more to add as he can quote all the engineering math formulas, etc. and has probably tore apart & examined more different cans than anyone I have ever met.

Pharcyde50

iTrader: (11)

I'm going with the rev one. I work in bradenton so I'm just gonna stop by and pick one up tomorrow.

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

I run the Rev unit. As another member stated the customer service there is second to none. I had an older design unit that they replaced with a newer design very recently for absolutley nothing. As TLewis mentions above this unit is designed to perform it's task and works. Tracy one question if I mount the catch can on the passenger fender where the battery is usually mounted (mine has been relocated) will it function better than on the passenger head?

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

Yes. The cooler the unit the better the function.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

suprised noone caught this...this setup is wrong it is letting unmetered air in through the oil cap vent...most likely you are gonna run lean...the pvc system need to be full closed system...if you use a vent the tb should be capped, along with the head ports

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

If he has a working PCV valve inline then the amount of air pulled from the vented cap VS the TB or airbridge (where it is all metered) is minimal and simple to compensate for in the tune.....and in most cases the PCM/ECM can compensate just fine w/out touching the tune.

If it is wide open, then yes there will be all sorts of issues.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

what is the purpose for having the vent cap...still the system is supposed to be closed anf now it is open so the actual air metered in not going into the engine...it is pulling some from the vent and some from the tb, even if the amount is small, why have the vent i dont see the need...