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LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal

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Old 08-12-2009, 12:18 AM
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After getting the brakes disconnected, I disconnected the fuel line on top of the manifold (3/8") and at the black canister toward the front of the intake. Once they were disconnected, I unhooked a chassis ground strap located below the fuse box on the driver's side of the car.
Attached Thumbnails LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-001.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-005.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-004.jpg  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:21 AM
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After getting the fuel lines disconnected, I removed both throttle cables from the throttle body. They simply pry off the bracket straight up. After removing them from the bracket, I pulled them over the top of the motor and secured them on the driver's side of the car so they would be out of the way.
Attached Thumbnails LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-002.jpg  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:27 AM
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I did a quick look over to ensure nothing was going to hang up as I dropped the K-member and I was set to go. Brought in a typical engine hoist, secured a tow strap around the chassis and hooked up to the hoist. Now some guys have built engine/tranny cradles to roll there set up out with, however I couldnt afford to lose the extra 6", so I left my wheels/tires on, supported the rear of the transmission with a jack, removed the K-member bolts, gave it a tug and the whole setup stayed on the ground! Check out the pics!
Attached Thumbnails LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-007.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-008.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-009.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-010.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-011.jpg  

Old 08-12-2009, 12:31 AM
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Rolled the setup out, now the fun begins! And of course I had to take a goofy pic.....saw it on another thread where it said it was required! Now I have to decide if I want to refresh this with new internals/ heads/ etc.....or do I just buy a built short block with some heads and save some cash. Tranny is getting rebuilt, the 3600 stall is shot so I think I may back up a little on the street with a 3000 stall. Gimme your opinion cause time is on my side now!
Attached Thumbnails LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-012.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-013.jpg  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:08 PM
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What brand stall is it? whats wrong with it?
I would send it back in to be freshened up, it will most likely cost much less then buying a totally new one but thats what it will be. I want to say mine was like 275 shipped when Yank went through it. all new bearings, lock up clutch and anything else that they saw wrong.

I would keep as much stall speed as you can especially if your going with more cubes and better heads. Just my .02$

other than that good job, i'll be checking back in when i finally drop mine out.
Old 08-21-2009, 10:41 PM
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Got the tranny all done this week. I'll get some pics when I get it back from the dyno shop....works out nice when a good friend works for the transmission shop (both for testing and for wholesale prices!!!!). We redid it all of it in my garage with a billet input shaft, 14 clutches, new pump, etc. Should work out great. Also took the advise and had them rebuilt my 3600 converter, saved a ton! Now onto the motor work..........
Old 08-21-2009, 10:42 PM
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Got the tranny all done this week. I'll get some pics when I get it back from the dyno shop....works out nice when a good friend works for the transmission shop (both for testing and for wholesale prices!!!!). We redid all of it in my garage with a new input shaft, 14 clutches, new pump, etc. Should work out great. Also took the advise and had them rebuilt my 3600 converter, saved a ton! Now onto the motor work..........
Old 08-28-2009, 05:09 PM
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In the 4th picture from the left I can clearly see the end of the jackstand.
What is supporting the body it looks like it's floating in mid air?
Old 08-28-2009, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by john shea
In the 4th picture from the left I can clearly see the end of the jackstand.
What is supporting the body it looks like it's floating in mid air?
at that time he was lifting the body off the motor with the cherry picker.
Old 10-26-2009, 11:03 AM
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Pm send on above message. Hey guys, been a long time so it is time for an update. Heres some pics of the transmisson rebuild mess! Waiting on the shortblock to get back from the machine shop and it will be all ready for assembly. Shortblock got punched over to 3.905. Heres the skinny on the shortblock- ARP rod bolts, Speed-Pro forged pistons,TSP Torquer V3 cam with LS7 lifters, heads are Lingenfelter CNC ported and polished LS6, TSP ported LS6 oil pump and an LS6 intake (plus lots of other little things). Get updated pics once its all together and going back in! Also going to post some pics of my powderocoated accessories I did in my garage incase anyone is interested!
Attached Thumbnails LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-mitch-stuff-2-014.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-mitch-stuff-2-012.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-mitch-stuff-2-013.jpg  
Old 10-26-2009, 05:25 PM
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Here's my engine about to go in. Take my advice and dress it up, clean it up, paint it or whatever you want to do. There is never an easier time then now.

Old 10-26-2009, 05:35 PM
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Looks good! Yeah, fortunately I have powdercoating equipment so most of my stuff is getting coated.
Old 12-07-2009, 10:41 AM
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I'm new to the F-body world and am having to drop out my engine and all to be rebuilt and I just wanted to say that this is very helpful in what I need to do. I've worked on '79 Trans Ams and done engine swaps and all, but the F-body has to make things complicated, lol. So, any updates? I see it's been a month since the last post. Did the engine get finished and everything put back in?
Old 12-07-2009, 10:59 AM
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Well, it has been my fault not doing any updates. I am still waiting on the block to get back from the machine shop. The guy doing my work is really good...but taking forever. When he was torque plating the driver's side cylinders, one of the head bolt holes stripped out and he had to order an insert (time consuming apparently). But once its back I got a whole table of parts ready to go together. I have powdercoated many items, including most recently my oil pan. I will get some pics up and be sure to ask any questions....helps keep the forum going!!!! Good luck with your build!
Old 01-04-2010, 08:50 AM
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Time for another update, got tired of waiting on the guy to get the correct tool so I ordered it myself and should have it on Wednesday to fix the block. What a process. Here are some pics of the items I have powdercoated plus I just finished porting/polishing my throttle body. What do you guys think?
Attached Thumbnails LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-001.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-002.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-003.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-004.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car.jpg  

Old 01-21-2010, 05:34 AM
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Machine work is finally done! Balancing will be done by Friday and then its time to assemble.......
Old 02-05-2010, 04:17 AM
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Got the motor together, just waitin on my 42lb injectors and my pushrods, both of which should be here by Monday. Then its reverse process getting her back in. Wrestling with picking a tuner. Wichita Dyno is my only local shop in KS, but he is pretty expensive. Looking in the Topeka/ Kansas City area as well as Oklahoma. Advise here would be great! And correction on pne of my previous posts....trans shop did not rebuild my old converter (it was junk), it was replaced with a billet Hughes converter stalled to 3700. If you are in the Newton, KS area....stop by!
Attached Thumbnails LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-006.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-008.jpg   LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal-car-001.jpg  
Old 05-12-2010, 06:29 PM
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did you ever get it together?
Old 05-12-2010, 06:30 PM
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and also is there a quick and easy way to pull just the tranny out?
Old 04-20-2011, 11:30 AM
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Man this thread has been dead for awhile.....to awnser your question long ago. Yes it was put together but have since sold the car. Made close to 430 at the back wheels. I am actually going up to KC this weekend to pickup a modded formula to play with for cheap. The tranny is a bit of a pickle unless you have some extensions to get to the top bolts. Easiest to drop the setup in my opinion.



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