Here's a company in Florida that sells 220 amp kits with the best WAI parts you can get. WAI makes 105, 140, 160, 180, 220 stators, regulators and rectifiers.
http://www.springhillautoelectric.co...d&productId=39


Here's the manufacture for reference.
http://www.waiglobal.com/index.html
http://search.waiglobal.com/prodsubc...rnator%20Parts



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220 is def overkill for what i need. it wont push that much unless the car needs it right? like its not going to burn my **** to the ground.....

 

You're right. I talked with a local Alternator rebuild shop in my area.
This guy gave me a real good an education about hi-po alternators.

He was saying the ratio of a hi-po alternator output is less of a percentage than a stock or lower power alternator. In the real world many hi-po alternators don't put out where you might need it. For example, sitting in traffic at idle with the AC and other accessories on.

Another important point he made was that most online hi-po kits don't provide the rotor that's required for the hi-po stator. He told me that a 220 amp hi-po kit with the stock rotor would shut down at idle.

This company can take my old alternator and custom build it with a new
custom wound stator and rotor. He would even show me how it performs on thier alternator test bench equipment. In other words, he could build me an alternator that would run to it's optimum efficiency and performance while running cooler that most hi-po alternators.

Glad I called this local company.

For my application, I think 140amps is more than enough.



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I'l second that
and in my experience Optima sucks period. Back in the day when they first came out had a red top that seemed strong for a minute but died quick.

 

This would be the battery I would buy if I was in the market today.

See bottom of page.
http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?category=14






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what else can your car do at idle? I mean since it totally collapses the realm of reality as we all experience it, it must be one bad *** mamma jamma right? maybe with an idle speed of 2k that wouldnt be a problem.

you sir are a liar. first off.....none of that stuff will fit with the massive engine you have under the hood. lets just think about what i said for a minute now. you DO have a minute dont you? i mean you spend all this time on the forum looking for sheeple and such pimpin your precious harrop intakes and vast knowledge that knows no bounds and even dips into the realm of the "beentheredonethat10timesbetterbangedmoregirlsandh ave2tshirts" then you can listen to how obsurd what i just said was. What i just said is right on par with what you just said. maybe you just dont understand in general like you said. ANYTHING. that sounds more like it. FYI the pepboys alt didnt come stock on any C5, let alone a 427. If you want to be as **** as dating the plug wires, then at least you could get that right.

 

I read LS6427's material all the time.

Gives great advice. I'd take it any day.

 

Just sharing my experience, guys. Odyssey may be the **** now, but I did say "widely available." An Optima is not what it once was, but still 5x better than a Delco, if for no other reason than an Optima cannot leak and Delcos leak more often than not. Optimas (or any dry cell) also live longer in the Texas heat. CCAs are not a concern here like they are up North, it's how long will they live in the heat and not leak. I've seen literally hundreds of Delcos leak, including my OEM battery. I did get a bad Optima once, but AZ swapped it no probs. I also have an Optima I was told was bad. I put it on a trickle, took it off, then set it in my garage. Two years later, I put it in a friend's Inifiniti, and he started like a champ and drove home. I've drained it completely many times and it comes right back. Did I mention this battery is at least 5 years old? It still works great! No Delco - or any non-dry cell battery can say that.

Maybe the extra output juiced up some tired plugs, maybe not. I know that that one change picked up MPG noticeably and thought you guys would like to know. I'm almost tempted to throw some plugs in there just to see if I get another little boost but I got an LS3 going in within 2 months. But seriously, Delco platinums and OEM wires are plenty reliable to 100k, provided everything else is kept up meticulously, and mine is...so 80k is no problem from my experience on these motors.

IF this unit dies after the one year warranty, I'll nut up for an Ohio Generator or Rush Power Systems jobby. Good thing I will have a spare Delco to drive around on in the meantime.

 

Second it all you want but the math doesn't lie, put several tanks through it: same pump, full to one clickstop, fill up, divide miles by gallons used to refill. It's a fact, it happened. There was actually almost 24% a couple of times, that's why I used the average and did it 4 times to make sure it wasn't a fluke.

My experience with Optima, both my own (see above) and many (dozens) I have recommended, has been 100% positive. Maybe quality has declined recently, it's still better than any other widely available battery for not much more than a "premium" other brand AND they don't leak. Clean up a couple leakers and you'll understand.

 

glad someone gets that optimas suck. i have never seen one last more than 3 years. a good wet cell battery will last longer than that. the die hard platinum has the same idea as the optima, but its made differently so it lasts longer. and i love how people say "ive ran my optima dead numerous times and charged it back up and it works fine". a good battery wont go dead. hell i can go buy a wal mart battery and run it dead 100 times but i can trickle charge it back up every night

 

It seems like the older Optima's were better. I had one in my old truck for 12 years and it was still working fine. I just changed it out for a piece of mind. My second one lasted about 4 years. ( that sucks ) lol

Since they were bought out by another company and mass produced for all the major retail autopart chains, It's seems like Optima's aren't so Optimum anymore.


I'm still researching my next Alternator.
Everyday I learn more and tell myself I'm glad I didn't buy one yet.


It seems that Remy has something going on with Powermaster. Not sure if they're one in the same.
http://www.remypowerproducts.com/ind...d=13&Itemid=38



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some good info. I need to but a alternator soon

 

I just received my new 160amp alternator today.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=170379069832
The picture in thelink is just a generic watermarked WAI alternator photo.

I'm happy because they sent my alternator with a Renard USA rectifier
instead of the typical chinese Transpo electronics.

One thing I found out about high output alternaters that claim 200 to 220 amps... Most only have 6 total diodes... 3 negative and 3 positive diodes. In reality that means 3 diodes at 50amps each, making only 150amps total.

The advertised wording is deceptive because it leads one to believe you are getting a total rectifier equaling 300amps.


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i have a 2 amps 1 is a 420 rms amd the other a 320rms ampfull system in the car with flipup.....cap 1.0, stock alternator, and a 6 year old optima yellow top battery..i love the battery and i will buy one again no problem....never had a problem with lights dimming or anything with my setup if the music is extremely loud and has lots of bass if noticed it drop a littlelower than 13 at an idle only...in the morning the needle is almost 3/4ths most of the time...maybe 16 volts, if the alternator goes im upgrading to a Denali unit since i heard that would fit my ls1 camaro

 

The Denali unit most likely has the larger Delco, Remy, Delco-Remy or Delphi
CS144 alternator. They are a fantastic OEM alternator.
Those are 140amps out of the box. They will fit ... but it's a tight fit ...
You will have to bend power steering lines near the rack and pinion to make it fit.


This is by far the best alternator place, I have ever seen.
http://www.alternatorparts.com/index.htm
That guy knows his stuff. I called and talked with him for a while.
Learned a heck of alot.

This would be the ultimate CS144, it might not fit because of the dual rectifiers.
http://www.alternatorparts.com/Extre...144%20type.htm




This would beyond the ultimate if you want to spend the money and it will fit.

You could use the CS144 ...
http://www.alternatorparts.com/category_cs144.html

AND ...

This Remote Bridge Rectifier System.
http://www.alternatorparts.com/Dual_...r%20System.htm


Like many things in life, it's all about what you want to spend.


By the way 420 and 320 rms is alot of power.
This means @ 420 root means square you have 593.8 peak - 1187.7 peak to peak.
This means @ 320 root means square you have 452.4 peak - 904.9 peak to peak.





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I was looking for a thread on how to change my black alternator cable and saw this, what did y"all replace ur cables with and was it hard?

 

And BearCatt where do your battery gauge sit at while at a steady idle?

 

Hey! Bearcatt Where does your power gauge sits at?

 

When you upgrade the cable , is it required to add in a fuse?

 

These cables are real nice but they come as a complete set.
http://www.innovativewiring.com/Chev...CamaroPage.htm

It's not to hard to change them out, however it its a bit of work and a few tight spaces.

It's well worth it. I had no choice but to change mine, they actually started to spark at the battery terminals.

Small picture are links to larger pictures.







With the key on, car not running, the needle sits just past the second mark in the yellow. Showing about 10 or 11 volts ???

I also connected a voltmeter directly to the battery terminals and got 12.8 volts.

Needle sits right in the center, between the middle mark and the one to the right ???

I also connected a voltmeter directly to the battery terminals and got 14.9
at idle.

Still reads 14.9 volts at idle with the AC, lights, Racetronix Hotwire kit and stock radio. If I had a huge audio system with big amplifiers, that might be a different story.



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