High Output alternator (HO alt) = better MPG
08-31-2009, 03:18 PM
#1
High Output alternator (HO alt) = better MPG For real, I put on an Alterstart 200amp unit a couple weeks ago. I've been tracking my actual MPG (ODO divided by fillups at the same station) very well recently. The 4-5 tanks prior to the alternator were 15-16mpg with roughly 50/50 city/highway split. In the 3 tanks since the HO alt, I am getting 18-19 (last was 19.4) with the same city/highway split. The funny thing is, I am actually driving it a bit harder now.
I noticed the car seemed stronger immediately after the change. It's not dramatic, but definitely noticeable. FWIW, I have also done the big 3. My theory is since the fuel pump AND ignition system are getting all the current they want, I am getting steadier/stronger fuel pressure allowing better pressure at the rail (atomization) and also stronger, hotter spark at the coils all the time.
The Alterstart unit is a tad bigger than stock but DOES go with a little persuasion from a small pry bar and some cussing. My lights are brighter, stereo is louder, and the fan blower does not deviate on high even at idle. I expected all of this but the better driving car and MPG was an unexpected bonus. I theorized this would be the case, but didn't expect a jump of 15-20%. This was the best $250+ I have spent on the car in a while. This makes the OEM piece feel like, well...a piece...
I noticed the car seemed stronger immediately after the change. It's not dramatic, but definitely noticeable. FWIW, I have also done the big 3. My theory is since the fuel pump AND ignition system are getting all the current they want, I am getting steadier/stronger fuel pressure allowing better pressure at the rail (atomization) and also stronger, hotter spark at the coils all the time.
The Alterstart unit is a tad bigger than stock but DOES go with a little persuasion from a small pry bar and some cussing. My lights are brighter, stereo is louder, and the fan blower does not deviate on high even at idle. I expected all of this but the better driving car and MPG was an unexpected bonus. I theorized this would be the case, but didn't expect a jump of 15-20%. This was the best $250+ I have spent on the car in a while. This makes the OEM piece feel like, well...a piece...
08-31-2009, 03:44 PM
#3
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The title of your thread caught my attention.
I can see how running with more current and slightly higher voltage might help your car to run more efficiently.
Just the thought of a higher output alternator sounds appealing.
I ordered a Racetronix pump and hotwire harness kit.
Which car do you have?
Would you like to share more info about your high output alternator?
.
I can see how running with more current and slightly higher voltage might help your car to run more efficiently.
Just the thought of a higher output alternator sounds appealing.
I ordered a Racetronix pump and hotwire harness kit.
Which car do you have?
Would you like to share more info about your high output alternator?
.
08-31-2009, 03:57 PM
#4
Sure!
It's a 98 LS1 Camaro and as you can see from the miles, it's my DD. I got the unit off ebay from AlterStart out of Dallas. It's a 200amp Load Boss and does 110amps at 800 RPM idle. They were very responsive and friendly and shipped quickly.
I expected a difference, I just didn't think it would be so much, so soon. I was thinking 1 MPG or so but this was noticeable immediately. I actually put several tanks through it before posting to make sure it wasn't a fluke. This is in Texas heat too, it may even get better as it cools off.
I do have an audio system but it's moderately sized, under a kilowatt total RMS.
This thing really was a problem sover, as advertised. Let me know what else you'd like to know!
It's a 98 LS1 Camaro and as you can see from the miles, it's my DD. I got the unit off ebay from AlterStart out of Dallas. It's a 200amp Load Boss and does 110amps at 800 RPM idle. They were very responsive and friendly and shipped quickly.
I expected a difference, I just didn't think it would be so much, so soon. I was thinking 1 MPG or so but this was noticeable immediately. I actually put several tanks through it before posting to make sure it wasn't a fluke. This is in Texas heat too, it may even get better as it cools off.
I do have an audio system but it's moderately sized, under a kilowatt total RMS.
This thing really was a problem sover, as advertised. Let me know what else you'd like to know!
08-31-2009, 04:16 PM
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Sure!
It's a 98 LS1 Camaro and as you can see from the miles, it's my DD. I got the unit off ebay from AlterStart out of Dallas. It's a 200amp Load Boss and does 110amps at 800 RPM idle. They were very responsive and friendly and shipped quickly.
I expected a difference, I just didn't think it would be so much, so soon. I was thinking 1 MPG or so but this was noticeable immediately. I actually put several tanks through it before posting to make sure it wasn't a fluke. This is in Texas heat too, it may even get better as it cools off.
I do have an audio system but it's moderately sized, under a kilowatt total RMS.
This thing really was a problem sover, as advertised. Let me know what else you'd like to know!
It's a 98 LS1 Camaro and as you can see from the miles, it's my DD. I got the unit off ebay from AlterStart out of Dallas. It's a 200amp Load Boss and does 110amps at 800 RPM idle. They were very responsive and friendly and shipped quickly.
I expected a difference, I just didn't think it would be so much, so soon. I was thinking 1 MPG or so but this was noticeable immediately. I actually put several tanks through it before posting to make sure it wasn't a fluke. This is in Texas heat too, it may even get better as it cools off.
I do have an audio system but it's moderately sized, under a kilowatt total RMS.
This thing really was a problem sover, as advertised. Let me know what else you'd like to know!
08-31-2009, 05:31 PM
#7
Have you clamped it to see if it's actually putting out 110 amps at idle? I was thinking about buying a HO alternator from Alterstart but I've seen alot of threads with bad reviews over at caraudio.com Most of them saying they're not putting out what they advertise at idle.
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08-31-2009, 05:35 PM
#8
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Most likely those Alterstart alternators put out ALOT more current
than the OEM.
My concern is the battery cables and harness. I have the heavy duty Innovative upgraded battery/alternator harness too. These are far superior to the stock cable and harness. But I'm not sure they can handle twice as much current.
.
than the OEM.
My concern is the battery cables and harness. I have the heavy duty Innovative upgraded battery/alternator harness too. These are far superior to the stock cable and harness. But I'm not sure they can handle twice as much current.
.
08-31-2009, 10:46 PM
#9
Most likely those Alterstart alternators put out ALOT more current
than the OEM.
My concern is the battery cables and harness. I have the heavy duty Innovative upgraded battery/alternator harness too. These are far superior to the stock cable and harness. But I'm not sure they can handle twice as much current.
.
than the OEM.
My concern is the battery cables and harness. I have the heavy duty Innovative upgraded battery/alternator harness too. These are far superior to the stock cable and harness. But I'm not sure they can handle twice as much current.
.
That's why I did the Big 3 first. What gauge cable is it that you/Innovative used? Check any car audio source and look at wire gauge vs. power handling. YOu should be able to find it in watts, which converts easliy to amps, vs. length. The longer the run, the thicker cable you need. The thicker the cable, the easier the current flows. For example, you may get by with 8ga but using 4 ga gives you margin AND keeps the cable cooler. Just go overkill. I used 2 and 0 gauge for mine.
Alterstart's ratings are almost exactly double OEM, idle and at speed.
08-31-2009, 11:22 PM
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That's why I did the Big 3 first. What gauge cable is it that you/Innovative used? Check any car audio source and look at wire gauge vs. power handling. YOu should be able to find it in watts, which converts easliy to amps, vs. length. The longer the run, the thicker cable you need. The thicker the cable, the easier the current flows. For example, you may get by with 8ga but using 4 ga gives you margin AND keeps the cable cooler. Just go overkill. I used 2 and 0 gauge for mine.
Alterstart's ratings are almost exactly double OEM, idle and at speed.
Alterstart's ratings are almost exactly double OEM, idle and at speed.
Here's the Specs and Description.
Side Post Battery Cables
I make these cables to replace the old and undersize cables that come on these cars. These cables will help with the starting and charging system, you will also notice brighter lights.
I make these cables using 1/0 gauge copper cable for the starter and ground cables, and 2 gauge copper cable for the alternator and junction box. Solid copper ends are soldered and crimped on for the best connection, then adhesive lined shrink is installed for protection. I then install flame retardant loom and battery and alternator boots. I supply new clamps for the starter cable to frame and new battery hardware.
I can tell you, the stock cables are a joke compared to these.
I found this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-A...mZ130322980126
If those alternators are anygood, I think that would be good for my setup. I figure another 50amps over stock would be good for my allready thicker cables and new Racetronix hotwire kit.
.
09-01-2009, 12:10 AM
#13
Guys, 2 mpg - that's going from 15 to 17. 2/15 = 13+% That's the low side. I could have said 4/15 which is DOUBLE THAT, which I have seen...but I did not. I used the least beneficial math. Do the math and figure it before you say "come on".
I was seeing 15-16mpg out of a tank, over and over and over. I would get just over 17 if I never went over 2k rpms and did more highway. I could barely get 20 doing mostly highway.
I am now doing the same 50/50 split, driving the **** out of the car (shifting b/t 4-4500 all the time), and am seeing 18.1-19.4 per tank.
I actually fudged this DOWN in addition to doing 4 tanks, to ensure it wasn't a fluke and to offset my bias. If you don't believe me, I could give a ****, but the theory is sound and my results are fact.
Check out the thread using truck coils and I'll bet results are similar.
Give your ignition AND fuel system more power, probably 20+% to both, and you'll see gains too, especially on an older car. YMMV
Your combo of 1/2/0 gauge is perfect. Make sure your terminals are good and connections clean and you are golden, don't sweat it a bit. If that didn't fix your issue, get an Optima. If you have that and still are not happy, you have a bad ground somewhere or simply need more output.
I was seeing 15-16mpg out of a tank, over and over and over. I would get just over 17 if I never went over 2k rpms and did more highway. I could barely get 20 doing mostly highway.
I am now doing the same 50/50 split, driving the **** out of the car (shifting b/t 4-4500 all the time), and am seeing 18.1-19.4 per tank.
I actually fudged this DOWN in addition to doing 4 tanks, to ensure it wasn't a fluke and to offset my bias. If you don't believe me, I could give a ****, but the theory is sound and my results are fact.
Check out the thread using truck coils and I'll bet results are similar.
Give your ignition AND fuel system more power, probably 20+% to both, and you'll see gains too, especially on an older car. YMMV
Your combo of 1/2/0 gauge is perfect. Make sure your terminals are good and connections clean and you are golden, don't sweat it a bit. If that didn't fix your issue, get an Optima. If you have that and still are not happy, you have a bad ground somewhere or simply need more output.
09-01-2009, 12:53 AM
#14
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I have the Optima battery, the cables are new and perfect.
Now I'm trying to figure out which alternator I want and how to make it fit and work.
Our cars have CD130d Series, I was looking into the Delco CS144 Series which is a little bigger. Do you know which housing the Alterstart uses ?
.
Now I'm trying to figure out which alternator I want and how to make it fit and work.
Our cars have CD130d Series, I was looking into the Delco CS144 Series which is a little bigger. Do you know which housing the Alterstart uses ?
.
Last edited by bearcatt; 09-22-2009 at 11:43 AM.
09-01-2009, 01:43 AM
#15
I used this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
I think it's the CS130 but am only 90% sure. It's the OEM model, I do know that. I also know it fits and works as advertised. I had to spit on it and cuss but it went in with no hammering or cutting or adjusting. 100% feedback with over 8000 buyers doesn't lie.
They have a 235amp unit out now that looks to be identical except for output.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
I think it's the CS130 but am only 90% sure. It's the OEM model, I do know that. I also know it fits and works as advertised. I had to spit on it and cuss but it went in with no hammering or cutting or adjusting. 100% feedback with over 8000 buyers doesn't lie.
They have a 235amp unit out now that looks to be identical except for output.
09-01-2009, 01:57 AM
#16
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LOL !
I might just go with a 160amp CS130D. I don't have big amplifiers and such.
Something similar to your link here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
During the course of our conversation, I've become obsessed with this website.
http://www.alternatorparts.com/category_cs144.html
and have become obsessed with this alternator. KABOOM !!! LOL
I would have to figure out which one I need or how to adapt it.
If it's to much hassle, I'll just use the CS130D.
.
I might just go with a 160amp CS130D. I don't have big amplifiers and such.
Something similar to your link here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
During the course of our conversation, I've become obsessed with this website.
http://www.alternatorparts.com/category_cs144.html
and have become obsessed with this alternator. KABOOM !!! LOL
I would have to figure out which one I need or how to adapt it.
If it's to much hassle, I'll just use the CS130D.
.
09-01-2009, 08:38 AM
#17
Bearcatt, too bad you don't live closer...I would LOVE to see how you car rides and drives with the Konis on 1LE springs. We have similar setups, except I am on regular stock springs and Bilsteins. What do you have your Konis set at and how's it ride just tooling around?
09-01-2009, 08:52 AM
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Jmilz28, you wouldn't happen to have a underdrive pulley would you. I'm real tempted to hit this buy button. My stocker just can not handle the headlights and stereo system ever sense I put the UD pulley on.
09-01-2009, 08:59 AM
#19
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Here's the Specs and Description.
Side Post Battery Cables
I make these cables to replace the old and undersize cables that come on these cars. These cables will help with the starting and charging system, you will also notice brighter lights.
I make these cables using 1/0 gauge copper cable for the starter and ground cables, and 2 gauge copper cable for the alternator and junction box. Solid copper ends are soldered and crimped on for the best connection, then adhesive lined shrink is installed for protection. I then install flame retardant loom and battery and alternator boots. I supply new clamps for the starter cable to frame and new battery hardware.
I can tell you, the stock cables are a joke compared to these.
I found this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-A...mZ130322980126
If those alternators are anygood, I think that would be good for my setup. I figure another 50amps over stock would be good for my allready thicker cables and new Racetronix hotwire kit.
.
Side Post Battery Cables
I make these cables to replace the old and undersize cables that come on these cars. These cables will help with the starting and charging system, you will also notice brighter lights.
I make these cables using 1/0 gauge copper cable for the starter and ground cables, and 2 gauge copper cable for the alternator and junction box. Solid copper ends are soldered and crimped on for the best connection, then adhesive lined shrink is installed for protection. I then install flame retardant loom and battery and alternator boots. I supply new clamps for the starter cable to frame and new battery hardware.
I can tell you, the stock cables are a joke compared to these.
I found this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-A...mZ130322980126
If those alternators are anygood, I think that would be good for my setup. I figure another 50amps over stock would be good for my allready thicker cables and new Racetronix hotwire kit.
.
I make these cables using 2 gauge copper cable for the starter, alternator, fuse box and ground. Solid copper ends are soldered and crimped on for the best connection, then adhesive lined shrink is installed for protection. I then install flame retardant loom and battery and alternator boots. I supply new clamps for the cables to chassis and new battery hardware.
09-01-2009, 11:43 AM
#20
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You copied the LT1 specs, the LS1 specs are as follows. Everything is 2 gauge.
I make these cables using 2 gauge copper cable for the starter, alternator, fuse box and ground. Solid copper ends are soldered and crimped on for the best connection, then adhesive lined shrink is installed for protection. I then install flame retardant loom and battery and alternator boots. I supply new clamps for the cables to chassis and new battery hardware.
I make these cables using 2 gauge copper cable for the starter, alternator, fuse box and ground. Solid copper ends are soldered and crimped on for the best connection, then adhesive lined shrink is installed for protection. I then install flame retardant loom and battery and alternator boots. I supply new clamps for the cables to chassis and new battery hardware.
You're right, sorry about that.
.