After I yanked the Coils/ Air plumbing, I noticed the rear most bolt on th edriver side manifold was gone. Took an inspection mirror and sur enough their was a broken bolt. Greast way to start a mod. It gets worse, the front one on that side just twisted off. With very little torque. The rest of that side and the passenger side was fine. When I got the manifold off the driver side gasket had copper coating. So some one ws obviosly their before me.

The bolt in the rear is sticking out. So I should be able to get that one. I was planning on gentle heating the head with a propane torch and the blasting the bolt with freeze spray.

The one up front I 'm going to have to drill and easy out that one.\

Anyone got better Ideas??
Ed

 

Is there anything at all sticking out on the drivers side?

 

Man that sucks dude. No bolt touches aluminum around me unless it has antisieze on it...

 

That what I was saying both bolts that are brole are on the Driver side.
The one that has about a 1/4" sticking out is the one all the way to the rear.
The one that is about 1/8 inside the head is the one all the way to the front.
Ed

 

+1.

And I also chase the threads in the aluminium with a thread chaser/cleaner tool before installing said bolts.

 

The one thats sticking out about 1/4 inch you might be able to get.

Find two nuts with the same type of thread but narrow enough so they both fit.

Then tighten the nuts up to each other, and put a wrench on the nut closer to the head and you might get it.

The one thats 1.8 inside.. Im not sure what you can do....

 

Even if it's at the front, is it even possible to get a drill in there?

This is a delicate operation, don't want to mess up your heads if the drill slips or is on even the slightest angle.

I would remove the head and do it on the bench.

Not the answer you were looking for.

 

might be a good excuse for a head upgrade?

 

This whole problem is compounded by these facts:
1. I have Mamo ported AFR 205's sitting 5 feet from where I'm typing. I also have a the AFR 224/228 114 LSA cam brand new (which I need to sell) and crane lifters, Yella Terra Rockers etc.etc..

2. Eric Koenig at HKE is 3/4 finished with my LS3 416 short block (which has a PAT G + Engine Power Systems) spec'd cam .

3. My plan was to install the headers and exhaust with Wideband, then install then tunable parts injectors, intake and fuel pump etc. then tune with my EFI live.

4. Then drop the motor and swap intake, headers and put then new one up and flash the computer with new with a different VE table. That should be a good starting place to tune.

So all of this complicaties my situation.
ED

 

just got your pm lol.

If you are just going to have the headers on there for a little bit of tuning, can you get the header on there tight enough without using that bolt?

 

Probably but I'm pretty **** about doing it right. The big thing is AIR LEAKS in the exhaust upstream from the Widenband O2 totally screw up readings. So
I would have very little confidence in my tune data.

 

The rear one is out used this tool I bought from Sears along time ago. I had to shorten it. It was cake, I even used my 1/4 drive air ratched after I got it moving.




This one isn't going to be so easy!

 

same thing happened to me.i just used a visegrip to remove it

 

How about this for a temp fix. There are unused holes right above the headers. Find a bolt that fits them. Then make a small brack that could push the header towards the head from the outside of the flange. The bolt would tighten the bracket which will push on the header to seal it. You could leave the broken bolt in there as it wouldn't be in the way.

 

In light of the rest of the story, I would skip the whole deal until the new engine is ready.

Or if I had to drive the car, I would just install the headers without that bolt and skip the tune for the time being.

But that's me, and we're talking about you.

 

I got the other broken bolt.
I made this jig from the gasket, I wanted something to guide the drill bit and stop it from wandering into the head.

Then bolted it on and hit the drill for a second, then removed the jig and verified the location.

Mirror check

I then bolted it back on and drilled an 1/8 inch hole. I then used a brand new extractor from Sears. It slipped after I looked at it the extractor was all tore up. Of course its suppose to be high carbon steel. It said made in China on it, imagine that! I then drilled it to 3/16 and used the other extractor and success!


The good news is the extractor did not penetrate the sides so the threads have not been damaged.

 

Damn good job, Funny how the fun jobs or the ones we want to do turn out to be a pain in the ***

 

Congrats on pulling out!! :-)

 

wow dude, nice work.

 

nice dude, congrats.....