finally got my LS1 started!!! strange prob though...
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finally got my LS1 started!!! strange prob though...
Not sure where to post this, so feel free to move in appropriate forum...
After all the studying and planning and doing, my LS1 FINALLY starts up and it sounds MEAN!!! I have a weird problem though...After a while it will just start to rev on its own, I mean the rpms just keep slowly climbing from idle all the way to 2500. I tried bringing the idle screw down on my 78mm throttle body, but when I do that, the car has trouble starting.
The engine is a 98 LS1, TSP XS Series 233/239 cam, granatelli maf, TSP pcm tune.
Has this ever happened to anyone? What do I do from here?
Thanks for any help/advice
After all the studying and planning and doing, my LS1 FINALLY starts up and it sounds MEAN!!! I have a weird problem though...After a while it will just start to rev on its own, I mean the rpms just keep slowly climbing from idle all the way to 2500. I tried bringing the idle screw down on my 78mm throttle body, but when I do that, the car has trouble starting.
The engine is a 98 LS1, TSP XS Series 233/239 cam, granatelli maf, TSP pcm tune.
Has this ever happened to anyone? What do I do from here?
Thanks for any help/advice
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I noticed also that there is a hole in the throttle body plate.
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small update
I sprayed carb cleaner at potential leak spots; it did nothing to the idle. I did however, manage to lower the idle to just under 1000 by taking the throttle body idle screw almost all the way down. But, in order to start the car, I have to put my foot on the accelerator.
So I talked to TSP since they're the ones that did my pcm tune (and my cam). They said that the hole in the throttle body that I have should probably be a little bigger because what that will do is allow more air to come in on startup, but the idle should stay the same, since the pcm reads throttle position to determine how much gas to give the engine (throttle position among other things).
So it looks like I have a little drilling to do. What do you guys think?
So I talked to TSP since they're the ones that did my pcm tune (and my cam). They said that the hole in the throttle body that I have should probably be a little bigger because what that will do is allow more air to come in on startup, but the idle should stay the same, since the pcm reads throttle position to determine how much gas to give the engine (throttle position among other things).
So it looks like I have a little drilling to do. What do you guys think?
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With a cam that big you will probably have to drill the TB a little bit regardless. Doing so could keep you from having to shell out $450+ on a custom tune. Clean up the wiring and make 100% sure you don't have an intake leak before you get a custom tune.
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I sprayed carb cleaner at potential leak spots; it did nothing to the idle. I did however, manage to lower the idle to just under 1000 by taking the throttle body idle screw almost all the way down. But, in order to start the car, I have to put my foot on the accelerator.
So I talked to TSP since they're the ones that did my pcm tune (and my cam). They said that the hole in the throttle body that I have should probably be a little bigger because what that will do is allow more air to come in on startup, but the idle should stay the same, since the pcm reads throttle position to determine how much gas to give the engine (throttle position among other things).
So it looks like I have a little drilling to do. What do you guys think?
So I talked to TSP since they're the ones that did my pcm tune (and my cam). They said that the hole in the throttle body that I have should probably be a little bigger because what that will do is allow more air to come in on startup, but the idle should stay the same, since the pcm reads throttle position to determine how much gas to give the engine (throttle position among other things).
So it looks like I have a little drilling to do. What do you guys think?
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If your idle is too high, drilling the hole in the tb bigger will allow the engine to draw more air and idle even higher than before. I would (as others said) check for a vacuum leak everywhere first. Check to ensure the intake manifold is thoroughly seated EVERYWHERE. Also make sure the sensors on the back of the manifold are properly installed and necessary vacuum lines have been capped. May be worth cleaning your MAF and other air intake sensors.
I sprayed carb cleaner on the EGR plug at the front and top of the intake manifold also.
NONE of this changed the idle AT ALL. If you are convinced that I have a vacuum leak, where else should I be looking? I do NOT want to drill into my throttle body if I don't have to. I am paranoid about overdrilling.
I have a short video of what it was doing...I will try posting it to youtube soon.
#12
I had a similar problem, but not quite as extreme. replaced the intake manifold gaskets and pcv valve and hose and it went away.
I was able to find it using brake parts cleaner and spraying around. Did you have someone watching the tach as you did it? i definitely couldn't hear a difference but the needle did jump around a tad.
I was able to find it using brake parts cleaner and spraying around. Did you have someone watching the tach as you did it? i definitely couldn't hear a difference but the needle did jump around a tad.
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I had a similar problem, but not quite as extreme. replaced the intake manifold gaskets and pcv valve and hose and it went away.
I was able to find it using brake parts cleaner and spraying around. Did you have someone watching the tach as you did it? i definitely couldn't hear a difference but the needle did jump around a tad.
I was able to find it using brake parts cleaner and spraying around. Did you have someone watching the tach as you did it? i definitely couldn't hear a difference but the needle did jump around a tad.
I know that a mail order tune isn't perfect and several people have said a dyno tune will do wonders for these engines. Even TSP said a mail order tune was to get you in the ballpark.
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video
here's a video of how it starts and the idle just gets up to 2500 rpm without me touching it. In the video it looks like I turned the idle screw with a little allen wrench, but I couldn't get it on the screw so I actually did NOT touch the idle screw at all in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgtTbiaEdvk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgtTbiaEdvk
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Also, here's the hole in the throttle body (78mm FAST); not sure if this has been drilled out already or not. looks like a good sized hole to me, i think the stock throttle bodies' holes are much smaller, correct?:
#17
such a pretty engine!
and yeah that hole is way bigger. i threw on a ported throttle body with the hole drilled out and it raised the idle noticeably. car fought the brakes(automatic) and accelerated on it's own without hitting the gas. strange that yours is normal at first and then revs up so fast though. do you have a scanner so you can watch what the IAC is doing?
and yeah that hole is way bigger. i threw on a ported throttle body with the hole drilled out and it raised the idle noticeably. car fought the brakes(automatic) and accelerated on it's own without hitting the gas. strange that yours is normal at first and then revs up so fast though. do you have a scanner so you can watch what the IAC is doing?
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such a pretty engine!
and yeah that hole is way bigger. i threw on a ported throttle body with the hole drilled out and it raised the idle noticeably. car fought the brakes(automatic) and accelerated on it's own without hitting the gas. strange that yours is normal at first and then revs up so fast though. do you have a scanner so you can watch what the IAC is doing?
and yeah that hole is way bigger. i threw on a ported throttle body with the hole drilled out and it raised the idle noticeably. car fought the brakes(automatic) and accelerated on it's own without hitting the gas. strange that yours is normal at first and then revs up so fast though. do you have a scanner so you can watch what the IAC is doing?
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To throughly check for a vacuum leak also consider the brake booster and or the evaporate emmisions system for un-metered air, if possible watch the long term furl trim percentages and start pinching of VAC line i. e. to brake booster or to EVAP lines or PCV and if the idle changes or smooths out or your fuel trim (long term) starts to drop then u have isolated the concern.