Kooks vs. ARH vs LPP
did you have any hitting issues with your Lpp install? i think i just gonna flatten out the pipe that hits the mortor mount alittle and take my plasma and trim that lip off the pancake and weld it back up..... hope this fixes it all.....
and i used the impact on all exhaust bolts and amazingly all came off easy and no broken ones...
and i used the impact on all exhaust bolts and amazingly all came off easy and no broken ones...
what size are the bolts, I think I was using a 15 and it wasnt grabbing, I havent mounted the headers yet. I had to hide from the trick or treaters, they were coming into my garage when i was under the car.
can you take a pic of where its hitting?
can you take a pic of where its hitting?
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Verdad Gallardo ok finished my install and guess what? i got one hell of a vib coming from the header hitting the frame where the a-arm mounts.. sorry bout the lack of pics my camera took ***** along with my jack i guess... so now i gotta remove it all and see if i cant cut the frame and weld back in a brace along with hammer the pipe alittle flatter in that spot....
I have LPP and unless you have a load of cash i would recommend them over the arh or kooks. there are significant mods you could do with the money saved.
Mine have plenty of clearance everywhere I didn't remove my starter, filter, steering linkage or anything.
i would recommend takin off the passenger valve cover, it makes it 100x easier to reach the rear header bolts on any install.
I purchased the new LPP's with the HVMC's and I thought I'd let you guys know they don't tell you but there is a flat spot on the second primary on the driver's side header right before it connects to the flange. I e-mailed them for an exchange and they said all of theirs do that and they don't know how to fix it and then showed me a pic of their car with the same flat spot right there on the header. That's false advertising to me
ok finished my install and guess what? i got one hell of a vib coming from the header hitting the frame where the a-arm mounts.. sorry bout the lack of pics my camera took ***** along with my jack i guess... so now i gotta remove it all and see if i cant cut the frame and weld back in a brace along with hammer the pipe alittle flatter in that spot....
I didnt have to remove the Knuckle or the oil breather on the driver's side, the only down side about the LPP is the Y Pipe, Fitment was a bitch for me, but I rather have that than saggy headers
, I love the way the collectors tuck inside my side skirts, but the Y Pipe gave me absolutely no clearance what so ever, I scraped it as I was exiting the garage
The Band claps are crap though, I will be making a trip to nappa to get some good ones.
I give the Headers an A
the Y Pipe a C+
Band Clamps F
135 you musta had very little road lol i hit 155 in no time in my TA when it was stock.
I have LPP and unless you have a load of cash i would recommend them over the arh or kooks. there are significant mods you could do with the money saved.
Mine have plenty of clearance everywhere I didn't remove my starter, filter, steering linkage or anything.
i would recommend takin off the passenger valve cover, it makes it 100x easier to reach the rear header bolts on any install.
I have LPP and unless you have a load of cash i would recommend them over the arh or kooks. there are significant mods you could do with the money saved.
Mine have plenty of clearance everywhere I didn't remove my starter, filter, steering linkage or anything.
i would recommend takin off the passenger valve cover, it makes it 100x easier to reach the rear header bolts on any install.
well i didnt have to remove anything except bout an 1" of k member on driver side... other than that they fit good.. y pipe wasnt so bad it tucked in tight for me and aint scraped once...
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 65
From: NYC
Thanks for the details & pics guys.
Hey StreetGliderX, that sucks that it hits the A-arm mount. Do you have an after market tubular K-frame or the stock K-frame?
svg210, just how bad is the Y-pipe? Does it have a flattened section for clearance? I’m thinking of wrapping my headers when I do this job, did you do it?
Hey StreetGliderX, that sucks that it hits the A-arm mount. Do you have an after market tubular K-frame or the stock K-frame?
svg210, just how bad is the Y-pipe? Does it have a flattened section for clearance? I’m thinking of wrapping my headers when I do this job, did you do it?
Thanks for the details & pics guys.
Hey StreetGliderX, that sucks that it hits the A-arm mount. Do you have an after market tubular K-frame or the stock K-frame?
svg210, just how bad is the Y-pipe? Does it have a flattened section for clearance? I’m thinking of wrapping my headers when I do this job, did you do it?
Hey StreetGliderX, that sucks that it hits the A-arm mount. Do you have an after market tubular K-frame or the stock K-frame?
svg210, just how bad is the Y-pipe? Does it have a flattened section for clearance? I’m thinking of wrapping my headers when I do this job, did you do it?
and probably sell them. the roads here are really horrible. I also been scraping the transmission so I rather not leave it to chance anymore. Other than that, I really liked the LPP setup, and I will miss my Strano's when they come off 
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 65
From: NYC
Looks like the LPP headers are out for me. Mainly because I’m planning on using the Stainless Works 3.5 inch system with a 3.5 inch inlet and LPP will not make their Y-pipe with a 3.5 inch outlet.
Also, the dent in the tube, the closeness to the motor mount and chassis and the Y-pipe clearance have me worried.
LPP's more polished finish won't be missed as I'm gonna wrap my headers anyway.
Also, the dent in the tube, the closeness to the motor mount and chassis and the Y-pipe clearance have me worried.
LPP's more polished finish won't be missed as I'm gonna wrap my headers anyway.