Kooks vs. ARH vs LPP
does anybody have side by side pics? or price comparrisson?
i was always looking towards the pacesetter LT's for fitment A+ and price...but if anybody has pics side by side drivers/then passenger of each brand installed thatd be *****...and yes lowered cars would be a bonus as well as stockers..
i was always looking towards the pacesetter LT's for fitment A+ and price...but if anybody has pics side by side drivers/then passenger of each brand installed thatd be *****...and yes lowered cars would be a bonus as well as stockers..
My ARHs also went in without any issues whatsoever. I swapped to poly MMs once the stock hardware was out, and I get no banging and have excellent ground clearance even though I could get a little more at the Y-collector if I raised the nose of my torque arm a little. The Y does have an ovaled section on the driver's side for about 18", but it's only crushed down about 1/2" or so. I went with the catted y, but I had Nick @ ARH weld up a 3.5" outlet for it so I can run a larger cutout. To get the passenger side in I had to get the centerline of the front wheels 30" off the ground, but they slid right in without removing anything and don't touch a thing once bolted up. Considering everything on the header/motor mount/exhaust install the headers/y-pipe were by far the easiest. Installing and adjusting (and adjusting and adjusting...) the catback was much more frustrating and an overall PITA.
Looks like the LPP headers are out for me. Mainly because I’m planning on using the Stainless Works 3.5 inch system with a 3.5 inch inlet and LPP will not make their Y-pipe with a 3.5 inch outlet.
Also, the dent in the tube, the closeness to the motor mount and chassis and the Y-pipe clearance have me worried.
LPP's more polished finish won't be missed as I'm gonna wrap my headers anyway.
Also, the dent in the tube, the closeness to the motor mount and chassis and the Y-pipe clearance have me worried.
LPP's more polished finish won't be missed as I'm gonna wrap my headers anyway.
does anybody have side by side pics? or price comparrisson?
i was always looking towards the pacesetter LT's for fitment A+ and price...but if anybody has pics side by side drivers/then passenger of each brand installed thatd be *****...and yes lowered cars would be a bonus as well as stockers..
i was always looking towards the pacesetter LT's for fitment A+ and price...but if anybody has pics side by side drivers/then passenger of each brand installed thatd be *****...and yes lowered cars would be a bonus as well as stockers..
everybody will have different fitment issues. headers that rub on my car may have great clearance on yours.
i would go stainless though. they last forever unlike painted which look like *** after 3 heat cycles and start rusting after a few months.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
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From: NYC
My 94 had stainless headers and the underhood temps were hot as hell. Cars I've seen with wrapped headers are always cooler. toslo5o, I'm wondering where you got the information that stainless headers don't let as much heat come through.
i run ceramic coated LT's on my formula..had em for a few years now...if i was going to do it again i would have gone with paceSetters ceramic coated again for longevity and because they huge the block a lot more and dont sit as low as SLP's
again so anybody got side by side pics? hell before or after install pics?
and how is there going to be fitment issues? if we both have 98-02 F bodys and they are built the same from the factory...then why would there be any difference in fitment?
again so anybody got side by side pics? hell before or after install pics?
and how is there going to be fitment issues? if we both have 98-02 F bodys and they are built the same from the factory...then why would there be any difference in fitment?
Last edited by Black FormulaLs1; Nov 3, 2009 at 11:22 AM.
my friend had a pair of wrapped pacesetters nearly every time we would run eachother he felt the need to pop the hoods to draw in attention from the kids at the local dig. under his hood just seemed hotter even though he has a lower temp thermostat. because of this i questioned the validity of exhaust wrap so i did some research and found stainless has 1/4 of the thermal conductivity that mild steel does. which means typical headers allow about 75% more heat to transfer than stainless.
I'm sure header wrap does the job i'm just not confident that it can make up for the difference in the 2 materials. DEI claims a 70% reduction in heat exchange which is probably optimistic considering it is their product.
I don't remember my original sources but here are a few unbiased veiws u can check out if u want.
http://www.sassda.co.za/info/facts.htm
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...=129516.0;wap2
like i said every little bit helps. i actually like the race look of wrapped headers maybe more than stainless. I didnt wrap mine because i've had wrapped headers before and this was my first set of stainless so i figured i'd show em off
My same friend decided to sand and repaint his rusty headers but decided the hassle wasn't worth it. he bought stainless and gave his away. The second car they went on needed a slight trimming on the k member. Im not sure why. a tiny difference from the factory welds of motor mounts or ..... ? idk
Last edited by toslow5o; Nov 4, 2009 at 02:09 AM.
I have had both the old style LPP and New style LPP.. the old style are the ones that had fitment issues, (hit the k-member, too clost to floorboard etc..) the new ones fit better than any header ive ever had to deal with, they slid right in with no problems what so ever and plenty of clearence, the quality was awesome on mine.. the welds were pretty freakin sweet..
