Header install
Header install What all am I going to need for a complete long tube header install. I'm getting the Pace Setter coated race long tubes and a 3" ORY-Pipe. I also plan on doing 2 electric cut outs. All of this will be hooked up to a Corsa cat back. What I'm asking is for the extra stuff like O2 extentions and seals and such. Personal experiences about your installs ect...
install Hey the hardest part is to take every thing off. But the rest isn't that hard but on passenger side, the heat sheild on the floor pan might have to come off. Another thing is the driver side you might have to use a jack to jack the driver side header into place, then the passenger side is a cake walk. It also helps to take the coil packs off, its easier on the hands but you dont have to, i didnt.
I searched and found a great install guide. From experience as long as you can jack it up nice nd high its a breeze. Depending on which headers you may need to notch a little piece of the k member. Its alot easier then it seems give yourself a weekend and you'll be fine
its a breeze, just take your time and make sure you have a couple days if its your first time. if it gets too diff or your not makin progress just walk away have a couple beers and go back to it when your not aggrivated. i bought header gaskets, never used them still have them in the box. RTV = the way to go personally
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Get that ****** up as high as you can safely.
Seriously.
Once you think it's high enough, put it up higher.
Also, If you're getting pacesetters don't go with their ORY or a first gen TSP ORY.
Unless you want the most god awful rasp ever.
Ended up having a custom ORY welded in.
Goes to a POWERSTICK then dumps.
Sounds sick.
-Matt
Seriously.
Once you think it's high enough, put it up higher.
Also, If you're getting pacesetters don't go with their ORY or a first gen TSP ORY.
Unless you want the most god awful rasp ever.
Ended up having a custom ORY welded in.
Goes to a POWERSTICK then dumps.
Sounds sick.
-Matt
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I agree with the above post. Don't bother with the Pacesetter ORY. For just as much money you can get the redesigned Texas Speed ORY with the Flowmaster merge. It will bolt right up to the Pacesetter Longtubes and flow much better than Pacesetter's version.
You will definitely want either 2-18" O2 Sensor Extensions or an 18" and a 12" for the Driver's and Passenger's sides respectively. I've been a part of three LT installs and every time we used Casper Electronics Extensions. They can be found at byunspeed.com or Marylandspeed.com or WS6Store.com. All of which are sponsors and have them for similar prices.
You may also want to consider upgrading your motor mounts to either Poly or Solids while you have the exhaust manifolds off the car. There are two reasons for doing this. The first being you already have the exhaust outta the way, which is a must in order to get the mounts. The second is, the rubber bushings in the factory mounts can flex with the increased torque from adding LT's. This combined with the amount of space that the LT's take up under the already cramped underbody of these cars can cause your newly installed ORY to bang the floorpan every time you punch the gas pedal. If you choose not to upgrade the mounts and your ORY does end up hitting the floorpan, you will have to completely remove your newly installed headers in order to properly fix this problem. Keep in mind that some people have had no trouble with the factory mounts, but this is definitely something to consider. Of the three LT install's I've been a part of we installed three sets of Prothane Poly Motor Mounts as well. Good luck, man.
You will definitely want either 2-18" O2 Sensor Extensions or an 18" and a 12" for the Driver's and Passenger's sides respectively. I've been a part of three LT installs and every time we used Casper Electronics Extensions. They can be found at byunspeed.com or Marylandspeed.com or WS6Store.com. All of which are sponsors and have them for similar prices.
You may also want to consider upgrading your motor mounts to either Poly or Solids while you have the exhaust manifolds off the car. There are two reasons for doing this. The first being you already have the exhaust outta the way, which is a must in order to get the mounts. The second is, the rubber bushings in the factory mounts can flex with the increased torque from adding LT's. This combined with the amount of space that the LT's take up under the already cramped underbody of these cars can cause your newly installed ORY to bang the floorpan every time you punch the gas pedal. If you choose not to upgrade the mounts and your ORY does end up hitting the floorpan, you will have to completely remove your newly installed headers in order to properly fix this problem. Keep in mind that some people have had no trouble with the factory mounts, but this is definitely something to consider. Of the three LT install's I've been a part of we installed three sets of Prothane Poly Motor Mounts as well. Good luck, man.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: California
What all am I going to need for a complete long tube header install. I'm getting the Pace Setter coated race long tubes and a 3" ORY-Pipe. I also plan on doing 2 electric cut outs. All of this will be hooked up to a Corsa cat back. What I'm asking is for the extra stuff like O2 extentions and seals and such. Personal experiences about your installs ect...
Pass on byunspeed go with this guy at "CC Performance Parts" I paid only $875 for ARH 1 7/8" headers and they are super trick also He'll deal with you and follow through with what he says, just ask for Chris
Los Angeles Zoo Crew
I agree with the above post. Don't bother with the Pacesetter ORY. For just as much money you can get the redesigned Texas Speed ORY with the Flowmaster merge. It will bolt right up to the Pacesetter Longtubes and flow much better than Pacesetter's version.
You will definitely want either 2-18" O2 Sensor Extensions or an 18" and a 12" for the Driver's and Passenger's sides respectively. I've been a part of three LT installs and every time we used Casper Electronics Extensions. They can be found at byunspeed.com or Marylandspeed.com or WS6Store.com. All of which are sponsors and have them for similar prices.
You may also want to consider upgrading your motor mounts to either Poly or Solids while you have the exhaust manifolds off the car. There are two reasons for doing this. The first being you already have the exhaust outta the way, which is a must in order to get the mounts. The second is, the rubber bushings in the factory mounts can flex with the increased torque from adding LT's. This combined with the amount of space that the LT's take up under the already cramped underbody of these cars can cause your newly installed ORY to bang the floorpan every time you punch the gas pedal. If you choose not to upgrade the mounts and your ORY does end up hitting the floorpan, you will have to completely remove your newly installed headers in order to properly fix this problem. Keep in mind that some people have had no trouble with the factory mounts, but this is definitely something to consider. Of the three LT install's I've been a part of we installed three sets of Prothane Poly Motor Mounts as well. Good luck, man.
You will definitely want either 2-18" O2 Sensor Extensions or an 18" and a 12" for the Driver's and Passenger's sides respectively. I've been a part of three LT installs and every time we used Casper Electronics Extensions. They can be found at byunspeed.com or Marylandspeed.com or WS6Store.com. All of which are sponsors and have them for similar prices.
You may also want to consider upgrading your motor mounts to either Poly or Solids while you have the exhaust manifolds off the car. There are two reasons for doing this. The first being you already have the exhaust outta the way, which is a must in order to get the mounts. The second is, the rubber bushings in the factory mounts can flex with the increased torque from adding LT's. This combined with the amount of space that the LT's take up under the already cramped underbody of these cars can cause your newly installed ORY to bang the floorpan every time you punch the gas pedal. If you choose not to upgrade the mounts and your ORY does end up hitting the floorpan, you will have to completely remove your newly installed headers in order to properly fix this problem. Keep in mind that some people have had no trouble with the factory mounts, but this is definitely something to consider. Of the three LT install's I've been a part of we installed three sets of Prothane Poly Motor Mounts as well. Good luck, man.
. I appreciate all the help guys. Sweet. For some reason I didn't get half of that when I searched. My searching skills need some work, lol. Thanks alot.
X2 Do the motor mounts with the headers if you plan on doing them. You will thank yourself later.
Dont forget header bolts and gaskets.
Dont forget header bolts and gaskets.
Last edited by BlueBird346; Nov 29, 2009 at 02:40 PM.
That's a good question. From the research I've done it's an issue with added torque. It has to do with adding stress to the stock mounts. It's been said that your engine will move and vibrate quite a bit more when sticking with the stock mounts. Most people just replace them for added comfort in knowing that the motor won't be bucking around under their hoods. Hope that helped.
Hey Joe,
Are you really going to use Long-Tubes & this whole package in California?
I always thought that in California you couldn't even move the 'cats'!
Yes, there are some people who do the LT swap, but have to swap back to the stock stuff for inspection every couple years. Or they use the shorties & retain the stock cat position.
What's yer plan? Can you get away with it?
Any of you other Kali-Fornians have any suggestions or similar packages?
Are you really going to use Long-Tubes & this whole package in California?
I always thought that in California you couldn't even move the 'cats'!
Yes, there are some people who do the LT swap, but have to swap back to the stock stuff for inspection every couple years. Or they use the shorties & retain the stock cat position.
What's yer plan? Can you get away with it?
Any of you other Kali-Fornians have any suggestions or similar packages?
I used to live in California. It sucked because EVERYTHING had to be carb (california air resources board) approved or you had to switch it out before emissions testing. Unless you want to switch out your long tubes before every test, you need to get a set of shorty headers that have the "carb approved" registration number welded to them. If you know a guy, that is a different story or you take to a guy that doesn't know long tubes are not approved and fab up your own registration medallion (that's what I did back in the day)...