What type of OIL do you use???
For the most part is doesn't really matter, to get the API certification it's about like baby formula's; they may be better but have to be made to a certain specification...
I run the german castrol just because it tends to quiet my piston slap down.
But I would recommend a good long lasting sythetic just because a lot of engine wear occurs when you add new oil (it's dirty) and the longer you can go before adding new (and that spike of dirt ingression) is a good thing...
Used oil may look dirty, but it's mostly due to soot which is sub < 1 Micron, whereas new oil can have many 14+ micron particles in it (larger given conventional means of adding oil through a dirty funnel). If you can see a spec of dirt it is at least 40 microns.
I run the german castrol just because it tends to quiet my piston slap down.
But I would recommend a good long lasting sythetic just because a lot of engine wear occurs when you add new oil (it's dirty) and the longer you can go before adding new (and that spike of dirt ingression) is a good thing...
Used oil may look dirty, but it's mostly due to soot which is sub < 1 Micron, whereas new oil can have many 14+ micron particles in it (larger given conventional means of adding oil through a dirty funnel). If you can see a spec of dirt it is at least 40 microns.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
For the most part is doesn't really matter, to get the API certification it's about like baby formula's; they may be better but have to be made to a certain specification...
I run the german castrol just because it tends to quiet my piston slap down.
But I would recommend a good long lasting sythetic just because a lot of engine wear occurs when you add new oil (it's dirty) and the longer you can go before adding new (and that spike of dirt ingression) is a good thing...
Used oil may look dirty, but it's mostly due to soot which is sub < 1 Micron, whereas new oil can have many 14+ micron particles in it (larger given conventional means of adding oil through a dirty funnel). If you can see a spec of dirt it is at least 40 microns.
I run the german castrol just because it tends to quiet my piston slap down.
But I would recommend a good long lasting sythetic just because a lot of engine wear occurs when you add new oil (it's dirty) and the longer you can go before adding new (and that spike of dirt ingression) is a good thing...
Used oil may look dirty, but it's mostly due to soot which is sub < 1 Micron, whereas new oil can have many 14+ micron particles in it (larger given conventional means of adding oil through a dirty funnel). If you can see a spec of dirt it is at least 40 microns.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 268
Likes: 1
Anyone have any experience or information on Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40?? I know some guys run conventional 15W-40 Rotella in their engines, but its much too viscous for anything other than racing applications, and its not suitable for winter.
From what I've read, T6 Synthetic 5W-40 has much more zinc and anti-wear additives than regular gasoline oil, which is why it may be beneficial to use it in our engines.
Currently I run Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic or Valvoline Synpower.
From what I've read, T6 Synthetic 5W-40 has much more zinc and anti-wear additives than regular gasoline oil, which is why it may be beneficial to use it in our engines.
Currently I run Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic or Valvoline Synpower.
Most filters commonly available on the shelf at the local parts store are junk, especially Fram. Mobil1, Wix, Royal Purple are OK but the RP is expensive.
I've exhaustively researched filters and I only use Cummins Fleetguard filters. Tough to find tho...
The five digit ones are better. I use the slightly longer truck one on the T/A.
I've exhaustively researched filters and I only use Cummins Fleetguard filters. Tough to find tho...
The five digit ones are better. I use the slightly longer truck one on the T/A.
I don't mean to be rude but come on people... Pennzoil? Really?! Are you wanting to rebuild your motor due to the crappy oil you're running in it? AND These motors are close enough tolerance that if you're running a heavier weight oil you are going to starve bearings and cause damage. They are made to run 5w30 for a reason. I work at a dealership and you would be amazed at how many engines we replace because they have run pennzoil in it since they were new and they are packed full of sludge and have torched every bearing in the thing. Thats just my opinion though do what you want.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
i run the 5w40 synthetic rotella oil.
its cheap, and i change my oil often anyway.
i will say, STAY AWAY from the new ac delco part# for the pf46 filter. the screw on portion is not stamped out of one piece anymore. its a thin piece of metal that has a threaded washer pressed into it. not saying its going to be a common issue, but it COULD spin apart from each other upon install/removal. worse it could seperate while driving down the road. highly unlikely, but im full of paranoia.
ill be switching to wix filters.
its cheap, and i change my oil often anyway.
i will say, STAY AWAY from the new ac delco part# for the pf46 filter. the screw on portion is not stamped out of one piece anymore. its a thin piece of metal that has a threaded washer pressed into it. not saying its going to be a common issue, but it COULD spin apart from each other upon install/removal. worse it could seperate while driving down the road. highly unlikely, but im full of paranoia.
ill be switching to wix filters.
Any name brand oil is fine. Frequency of oil changes is going to make the difference. Allowing the oil in your engine to break down is what will cause wear/break down, more so than the type of oil you choose. Cater the weight of oil to your application, use a good name brand like Valvoline/Penzoil/Castrol/Havoline, and you'll be fine.
The only oil I'd recommend shying away from is Quaker State, better known as Quaker Sludge. They used to use wax in their oils, and it'd turn into chocolate fudge inside your engine over time. When I first started learning how to tear down motors 15 years ago, I took apart tons of SBC's that were sludged to hell and back from Quaker State oils.
My 93 Mazda daily driver has 225,000 HARD miles on it (2.0L Probe motor that I beat the hell out of), and I use Valvoline 5w30. Doesn't burn 1 drop. I change my oil ever 3K on the DOT.
The only oil I'd recommend shying away from is Quaker State, better known as Quaker Sludge. They used to use wax in their oils, and it'd turn into chocolate fudge inside your engine over time. When I first started learning how to tear down motors 15 years ago, I took apart tons of SBC's that were sludged to hell and back from Quaker State oils.
My 93 Mazda daily driver has 225,000 HARD miles on it (2.0L Probe motor that I beat the hell out of), and I use Valvoline 5w30. Doesn't burn 1 drop. I change my oil ever 3K on the DOT.
I don't mean to be rude but come on people... Pennzoil? Really?! Are you wanting to rebuild your motor due to the crappy oil you're running in it? AND These motors are close enough tolerance that if you're running a heavier weight oil you are going to starve bearings and cause damage. They are made to run 5w30 for a reason. I work at a dealership and you would be amazed at how many engines we replace because they have run pennzoil in it since they were new and they are packed full of sludge and have torched every bearing in the thing. Thats just my opinion though do what you want.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
From: south jersey. again
Why the hell did you just post my info? LOL... If he asked a "stupid" question then why are you making a BIG deal over it? Wash the sand out of your vagina! I'm simply telling him to do a search before making another 104590345389454 thread about oil. I didn't come off rude to the thread starter so STFU and relax
Edit: This is also the wrong section to post about oil
Edit: This is also the wrong section to post about oil
They say it has been improved but I've got pictures that prove otherwise. Pennzoil has been the death of the new 5.4 3v in the f150s. They will eat cams and spit out lifters left and right because of lack of oil pressure from the sludge being produced from the pennzoil. Thats proof enough I don't want pennzoil anywhere close to my cars. There are a lot of good oils out there. My personal preference is valvoline. The new synpower has been working pretty good and the vr1 is a great oil. Im not saying pennzoil is going to kill your car... I've just seen what it can do.
For the most part is doesn't really matter, to get the API certification it's about like baby formula's; they may be better but have to be made to a certain specification...
I run the german castrol just because it tends to quiet my piston slap down.
But I would recommend a good long lasting sythetic just because a lot of engine wear occurs when you add new oil (it's dirty) and the longer you can go before adding new (and that spike of dirt ingression) is a good thing...
Used oil may look dirty, but it's mostly due to soot which is sub < 1 Micron, whereas new oil can have many 14+ micron particles in it (larger given conventional means of adding oil through a dirty funnel). If you can see a spec of dirt it is at least 40 microns.
I run the german castrol just because it tends to quiet my piston slap down.
But I would recommend a good long lasting sythetic just because a lot of engine wear occurs when you add new oil (it's dirty) and the longer you can go before adding new (and that spike of dirt ingression) is a good thing...
Used oil may look dirty, but it's mostly due to soot which is sub < 1 Micron, whereas new oil can have many 14+ micron particles in it (larger given conventional means of adding oil through a dirty funnel). If you can see a spec of dirt it is at least 40 microns.
I use Amsoil Ea filters due to it's superior single digit micron filtration ratings and efficiency. They make one for the LS1, but I have to use a WIX on my oldsmobile since Amsoil doesn't make one for my other car.
The potential downside to excellent filtration is clogging and affecting flowrate, which is something you almost never hear about. If I could get some funding, I would love to do a study on flow rates, filtration efficiencies, and relation to protection and oil break down.
Here is some more info: http://www.amsoil.com/comparison/oil-filters.pdf
Note the particle size to wear comparison!
Note the particle size to wear comparison!
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 268
Likes: 1
I don't mean to be rude but come on people... Pennzoil? Really?! Are you wanting to rebuild your motor due to the crappy oil you're running in it? AND These motors are close enough tolerance that if you're running a heavier weight oil you are going to starve bearings and cause damage. They are made to run 5w30 for a reason. I work at a dealership and you would be amazed at how many engines we replace because they have run pennzoil in it since they were new and they are packed full of sludge and have torched every bearing in the thing. Thats just my opinion though do what you want.
I DO. The epa fined just about every car company for fudging the CAFE milage numbers. They were using 5 weight oil for the test. But the oil was never available to the public. So all of a sudden all this 5W-30 oils started to show up. The EPA made a ruling that whetever oil the engine was tested with must be available to the public. I do not use 5 weight oil in any of my GM motors. I do use it in my Turbo Fords with DIZZY drive oil pumps because they have a nasty habit of stripping the DIZZY gears. If you live in a worm climate. I personally would not use a anything lower tha a 15W-40 I have built many a close tollerance engine with no problem running 15W-40. Once again you are confusing oil designations. The W rating on oil is not the weight DESIGNATION . It defines that the oil as a WINTER GRADE. Example 20w-20 ETC is a winter OIL. AN SAE 30 is NOT. By any chance do you work in a TOYOTA DEALER ????????????
Last edited by tom falco; Dec 31, 2009 at 04:59 PM.