wow your sponsors is mobile 1,who cares...please show us all your cars all mighty one

 

I disagree with your statement about quakerstate.the q hp cleaned all kinds of sludge out of my motor.I don't know what the previous owner ran in it but the quaker state sure cleaned it out

 

Jp temper temper dont ask for something to hard you may just GET IT. I dont want to make this a pissing contest. I apoligize i did go off the deep end. I dont want to be a show off. Lets split the difference and cool it. Let it go.

Damian you are correct. We lost 4 engines using Quaker state a fiew years ago. They had a bad batch of viscosity modifiers that turned to sludge. And believe me you dont want to know how much a GT3 cup car engine costs. Oil change intervals are the KEY. That is the most important part of good engine life. Basically any good oil by the major brands are good. Basically all the oils are made by vendors to specific application. We use MOBIL exclusively for obvious reasons. We use it in the race cars and the tow vehicles. The key is OIL CHANGE INTERVILS. PS that is exactly what happened the big Q used parafin that broke down and turned to SLUDGE. Our team was out of business that year. We now use MOBIL like i said absolutely no issues.

 

Hi King the ambient temp is also key in picking OILS. If you live in a worm climate like you do the lower viscosities are not as critical. If you look at the oil requirements on say a porsche turbo you will see different weights for sustained high speed. The theory is the faster the oil gets to the parts the less they wear. In the cold oil moves slower and thats why oils have a W rating and are thinner. But as i stated the EPA fined car companies for using oils that were not available to the public for EPA certification. So now they use Ow-5 for cafe. so the oil is now available. Synthetics are fine but we are noticing valve train noize on big cam applications on chevy motors. There seems to be a mith that synthetics cant be used on new motors for break in periods.We switched to conventional oils with good results on big cam motors(less valve train noize we cant figure out why). We use motorcycle oils on older flat cam motors for the ZYNC. Or GM EOS. We also found out that Synthetics are also good for bresk in on new motors. Gm sent us a bullitin a fiew years ago warning us about the 10-40 oils and ring problems. That does not apply to synthetics. Oil is like socks every one wears them but they come in all different COLORS. CHOOSE WISELY and choose an oil for the way you use your engine. I have a MB Engine in our coach and wE use 15-40 in the winter and we start is in very cold weather with no problems. A diesel will be the ultimate test of an oil to hold up under extream conditions. Thanks Tom

 

i run castrol syntec 5w-40

 

i dont know anything about the make up of oils, but when i was a kid helping my dad rebuild motors in the early/mid 80's, any motor we took apart, you could tell it had quaker state in it. always had to beat the oil pan off the motor cause there was sludge holding it to the block.
for that reason, i grew up being told dont ever use quaker state products.

 

First off, let me say that I merely said you "sounded" old school. I didn't say you were old school, please don't take it so personally.

So you say you are noticing more valve train noise on Chevy engines with synthetics?? Any theories on why that might be?? Doesn't really make sense, seeing as synthetics reduce friction. I'm assuming both oils were of the same viscosity?? Not saying you're wrong, just curious as to what would cause such as thing.

As for using 15W-40 in your Mercedes engine, I don't doubt that it starts without a problem in cold weather. 15W-40 isn't molasses, its just higher viscosity, which isn't ideal in cold weather. 5W-40 Synthetic is a much better choice for cold weather starts in a diesel engine, since it gets the oil flowing much more quickly and synthetics allow for a lower coefficient of friction between moving parts. Would you agree with that??

 

thanks tom

 

penn platinum 5w30 with a mobil1 oil filter

 

AMSOIL. Use AMSOIL if you care about your car. Use AMSOIL if you want to save money. By that I mean in the long run. AMSOIL is a high milage oil and you will not need to change it like the Valvoline and Mobile 1 types. AMSOIL will not break down like the rest. Change your focus to proper filtering as mentioned in the quote. You can change up your filter without having to dump your oil. AMSOIL costs more but in the long run you will save on oil and on engine maint.

 

There is some really bias and terrible information in this thread.

Its all about Amsoil! If not, penzoil platinum

 

tj that is correct The big Q had a problem with their VII chemicals. In truth it really was not their fault. One of their vendors sold them some Parifin wax VII additives and all hell broke loose. It has been corrected but the guys in the KNOW like us wont trust the oil any more and that is understandable. Hay sorry westman just one of those days. The reason we are having valve train noize is not known yet. Our Mobil rep will be in town during the week and he will see what is going on. Right now its a mistery to us but we confirmed it. Like you so rightly pointed out westman there should be no logical reason for it. But here is what we were told by the reps. Even with synthetics the VII spread should be as low as possible for the climate you drive in. All oils are flow tested and rated at O* and 212* Example a O-30 would flow at O when the temps are at O* and flow at 30 at 212* So if your oil temps are below 212 and they should be what is the viscosity?? its not 30 maybe only 25 at 150* oil temp. Remember multi weight oils are VARIABLE. So always try and stay with tight oil spreads. Example a O-30 at 106* is only a 15 but a 10 30 at 106*is a 20 vis. What happens the oils are viscosity temperature modified or STRETCHED. This is a good thing but it can wear out and stop doing that. That is what happened to Quaker. The VI kept on stretching to a massive number and turned to thick sludge. Think about it like a rubber band if you stretch it to farr and to long it breaks. Also diesel oils have more acid reducing chemicals than gas oils. This is because of the sulphur in diesel fuels. Now its a different story with low sulphur diesel fuels. Like i said oil is like socks we all wear them but they come in different colors. Also changing oil is the best solution for engine life. Basically the more you change it the better. (To some extent) Oil suspends dirt and no filter can remove all of it. Remember every oil system has a bypass valve that bypasses the filter from time to time. If the filter is to restrictive it bypasses. There again another balancing effect on an oil system. The best way to have good filtering is to increasing filter material surface area and micron flow(physically bigger filter or a filter with more pleats etc). The better the filter the easier it cloggs and bypasses. I did tests years ago with different micron rated filters and found out that to much filtering can and does open the bypass valve. Hope this helps Tom

 

i hear people preach amsoil, amsoil, all the time. im not sold on their oils, but their "marine wheel bearing grease" is insane. anything i put in my boat trailer will dissapear over time from the salt and heat.
this stuff sticks to the bearings like no tomorrow.

 

I would think it prudent that an oil manufacturer throughly test all raw materials provided by their vendors. Having failed this, they failed the end user, the consumers.

 

Totally correct and the BIG Q bought litterly hundreds of engines in the after math.

 

If quaker state is such shitty oil how do you explain all the gunk that came out of my engine after running q in it then changing it for the first time?so you pretty much saying that just because they made a mistake once then the oil is junk forever?

 

I'm pretty sure he cleared that up here (the bolded part)

 

X 2. No other company post results/stats like Amsoil. Could it be that they don't have better oil???

 

You should never trust a company's test results about it's own products. Look at test results from people/company's that have no products to sell.

Surely you must realize that a company will always say their products are the best.

I'm not saying that Amsoil products are bad, it's in a group of very, very good synthetic lubricants. You won't go wrong using it. I used to use Amsoil. It's just incorrect today to say that it's the best.

Find me an oil that meets or exceeds as many specifications as German Castrol:

"SYNTEC 0W–30 European Formula is engineered to meet the Mercedes Benz 229.5 specification....Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL–01; GM–LLA–025, GM–LL–B–025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF–3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils."

 

Damn man you know your stuff^. I like I said before swiched to GC and love it. Some serious goopy nasty **** came out after the first change with it. Used M1 5-30 before. Hard to find sometimes, but my engine has never been quieter and I have better psi too.