What type of OIL do you use???
tj that is correct The big Q had a problem with their VII chemicals. In truth it really was not their fault. One of their vendors sold them some Parifin wax VII additives and all hell broke loose. It has been corrected but the guys in the KNOW like us wont trust the oil any more and that is understandable. Hay sorry westman just one of those days. The reason we are having valve train noize is not known yet. Our Mobil rep will be in town during the week and he will see what is going on. Right now its a mistery to us but we confirmed it. Like you so rightly pointed out westman there should be no logical reason for it. But here is what we were told by the reps. Even with synthetics the VII spread should be as low as possible for the climate you drive in. All oils are flow tested and rated at O* and 212* Example a O-30 would flow at O when the temps are at O* and flow at 30 at 212* So if your oil temps are below 212 and they should be what is the viscosity?? its not 30 maybe only 25 at 150* oil temp. Remember multi weight oils are VARIABLE. So always try and stay with tight oil spreads. Example a O-30 at 106* is only a 15 but a 10 30 at 106*is a 20 vis. What happens the oils are viscosity temperature modified or STRETCHED. This is a good thing but it can wear out and stop doing that. That is what happened to Quaker. The VI kept on stretching to a massive number and turned to thick sludge. Think about it like a rubber band if you stretch it to farr and to long it breaks. Also diesel oils have more acid reducing chemicals than gas oils. This is because of the sulphur in diesel fuels. Now its a different story with low sulphur diesel fuels. Like i said oil is like socks we all wear them but they come in different colors. Also changing oil is the best solution for engine life. Basically the more you change it the better. (To some extent) Oil suspends dirt and no filter can remove all of it. Remember every oil system has a bypass valve that bypasses the filter from time to time. If the filter is to restrictive it bypasses. There again another balancing effect on an oil system. The best way to have good filtering is to increasing filter material surface area and micron flow(physically bigger filter or a filter with more pleats etc). The better the filter the easier it cloggs and bypasses. I did tests years ago with different micron rated filters and found out that to much filtering can and does open the bypass valve. Hope this helps Tom
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 531
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From: Pocatello Idaho
Yep. Heard about it on here and thought why not? I really like it. The TA loves it for sure. Funny thing is every 5w-30 car I have now gets that oil. The GP I can't tell a difference, but it is low miles still and my 97 v6 bird gets it now. If I had to do it over I would have changed my filter half way thru the change cycle. Like I said lots of nasty stuff came out. Probably plugged up my filter. One thing and I don't know who said it, but make sure you use a good filter. I use the amsoil filter and when I can't find that I use a k&n. Found a thread here a while back with a link that showed how all were manufactured inside and out and what type of media they used. Very helpful.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 531
Likes: 0
From: Pocatello Idaho
No it won't come up on their site. I just had to look around town. If you get it make sure it says 0w-30 and made in Germany on back. The only place where I live that has it is Autozone. Thing is they don't always have it so I stock up a bit when I see it.
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Verdad Gallardo i checked on autozone's website and apparently the store near me stocks it. so with someone sayin earlier that we don't normally do a break in with our new cam's because they are different than old school . . . i can just run this 0w30 from the get go with no problems? if i can't find it with the made in germany logo i'll just buy some 5w30 fully synthetic either mobil 1 or GC
W stands for winter grade-not ment for winter. And parafin is wax. As damain stated, any oil. Dino or synthitec. main thing is change intervles. Do stay away from Quaker state. Pennzoil synthics have come along way. The convetional Dont trust it either as stated here. Lots of good case studies for you to read and make you comfortable with your choice.
It's on the http://www.castrolsyntec.com/grades.aspx site.
and here: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=6006933
and here: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=6006933
and i'll be picking it up on thursday with a K&N filter, thanks guys for the help! 
Guys one of our sponsors sells it by the case (6 quarts).
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1763
Buying it online is only about $7 more expensive than when I buy it in the store for $7.99 a quart plus tax. Its a great deal for people that can't find it at their local autozone or pep boys.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1763
Buying it online is only about $7 more expensive than when I buy it in the store for $7.99 a quart plus tax. Its a great deal for people that can't find it at their local autozone or pep boys.
Mobil one in the car (that's the synthetic that the dealer has) and royal purple in the Land Cruiser.
No idea where the oil is going in the Land Cruiser though (no visible leaks and it's not burning it). I have to dump a quart in about once a month. It runs fine, so I just keep doing my monthly top off. lol
No idea where the oil is going in the Land Cruiser though (no visible leaks and it's not burning it). I have to dump a quart in about once a month. It runs fine, so I just keep doing my monthly top off. lol
