I've heard people not having to disconnect mounts but there was no way that my driver side QTP was going in without removing the pedistal on that side. I tried for quite a while before I ended up taking it off and it slid right in. I'm sure each brand of header installs differently

 

Ah... with this being the case, you can definitely take your time with the installation. That is good thing.

And since time is not an issue, you should most definitely consider upgrading your motor mounts to either polys or solids, while doing your LT installation.

The easiest way to get to the motor mounts is with the exhaust manifolds/headers off the car and outta the way.

Upgrading your mounts is also the only way to insurance that your new Y-pipe won't be banging the floorpan when you nail the throttle after your LT install.

I'm not sure what a set of solid motor mounts go for, but a set of Prothane Poly's are like $60.

And, yes. Installing upgraded motor mounts is a ******* bitch, but it is well worth it.

There is a great write-up on this site you can follow.

Like I've said (and other members are probably tired of hearing me preach) when you do headers you should ALWAYS do motor mounts at the same time.

Good luck.

 

+90000
Definitely do the mounts.

 

Alright, no I don't got issues lol. I was just saying...

 

Well I did it with 16 inch jack stands the first time but I did jack up all 4 wheels, I got the headers in fine. Im not a big fat *** or anything but im not small. It was a bitch getting the old out but pretty easy putting the new in. +1 for the 10mm racheting wrench, if you dont have one borrow, buy, or steal one of these you will thank yourself within 30 min of starting the job. Do not put the 5 bolt back in the coil bracket you dont need it and you will learn to hate it. Wear a long sleeve shirt (trust me). Be careful with the last bolt on the passanger side, it likes to snap, PB Blaster all the way. Good luck!

 

thanks alot man, I have a set of SLP longtubes im putting in, Im not possitive but I think they are suppose to be the hardest to install.....is this true?

 

I had three ton jackstands (18" max I think), and I went back to Harbor Freight and got the six ton ones because my car wasn't high enough. Well, MAYBE it could have been done but I started getting pissed. And believe me, you ARE going to get pissed at one point or another during this install. Just take a few minutes and settle down, then get back to it. Especially if you do the mounts too.

I'm not being a smartass either. The steering shaft/knuckle is a total bitch, and the mounts will absolutely do everything they can not to realign. Good luck man, and I probably wouldn't drink while you do it, at least not Labatt Blue or Budweiser. Those beers transform me like the Incredible Hulk....

 

lol yeah Im a pretty big hot head so Ill dont need to be drinking while I do this

 

I don't have any experience with any of SLP's headers. (I have been a part of installing three sets of Jet Hot LT's though.) But from reading posts from others, I know the older style of SLP's Longtubes were a bitch to install and left you with much less ground clearance than what newer style headers offer. If these are the headers you are planning to install, I would say you have your work cut out for you. Here is a link to the version you don't want...

http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...52&BIG=30052-1

But... SLP has a newer, revised version of LT's made from 409 Stainless Steel that looks as though they should fit much better than their first style. If these are the headers you have, I believe the install will be no more difficult than any other quality header on the market. Here's a link to the ones you want...

http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...47&BIG=30047-1

One more shameless plug for motor mounts as well...

If you decide not to upgrade your mounts and end up with your Y-pipe banging on the underside of your car, you will pretty much have to completely uninstall your new headers/Y-pipe in order to get to the motor mounts.

And, although I know there are remedies that can help with banging exhaust, the correct way to alleviate this problem is to do the mounts.

With each header install I've been a part of, we also upgraded to a set of Prothane Poly Motor Mounts. Not one of these three cars has ever had an issue with the exhuast hitting the car.

So, as I said before, please consider upgrading them now. You won't be sorry you did.

Good luck, man.

 

1st bold - haha yup did the same thing here, **** that piece of **** bolt it's sittin my cup holder as we speak, haha that was a major pain in the *** to take out... on and why the **** does the bolts have to have a stud on the end, is it just to **** us off if we cant find the 10 deep??? i think it is... like i said P.O.S. bolt!!!!

2nd bold - yes, do not be greedy with that pb blast use the whole can on the header bolts and y-pipe bolts like i said before let that sum bitch soak for a couple of days and that will make life a lot easier on your self!!!!

 

Are these the new or old SLP design? If they are indeed the old design, I say go with a different set!

Installing my cheap Pacesetters was my first real upgrade on my Camaro and I did it with a lift at an Air Force hobby shop. It helped having a friend hold the header while I lined up the gasket and bolts. It's not hard, but it is time consuming. Don't use the gaskets that come with the headers because they tend to leak. I believe in GM gaskets. JMHO. Good luck.

I miss my Camaro now

 

I installed my Pacesetter a couple weeks ago it wasn't as bad as I thought.I used jack and jackstands no wood needed for me. I had to disconnect the steering linkage and grind the block a bit on the drivers side. It was the first time I worked on my Camaro. As others have said the 10mm ratcheting wrench. Good luck man

 

figures, I have the older tuned length ones, oh well, thanks for the info, my installation got pushed back a few days due to daily driver issues so hopefully this goes ok

 

This doesn't make the task impossible. Obviously many have walked this path, so it can be done.

Another option is, you could sell the headers you currently have and use that cash towards the purchase of a different set.

If you choose to push forward with the tuned length headers you'll just have to be extra carefull with speed bumps once they're on the car. LOL

 

yeah im just gonna push fowards with these ones since I picked them up retardedly cheap, and im gonna be putting prokits on it

 

HOW THE **** am I suppose to get to the back header bolt on the passenger side

 

i used a stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench... one of my fav wrenches, i use it all the time and it fits in the palm of my hand

 

Once the factory Y-pipe and cats are outta the way, you can reach up from underneath with the ratching 10mm and take care of that bad boy.

If you plan to remove/replace the plugs and/or wires, I would attack them from below as well.

 

As you can see in my sig and in my profile pic I raised the car with a horse. I actually pulled the motor up with the car. I disconnected the steering wheel from the inside and out. It took me roughly 30 mins to do it with Pacesetter Longtubes. But the only problem is that it scraped the steering rack everytime I turned and its like if I had no power steering.

 

I used zip ties to hold on the exhaust manifold gaskets to the header to help keep them under control with the install. Once you have 2 bolts in the head just cut the zip ties and continue to put in the rest of the bolts