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Re-installing Crank Pulley

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Old 12-29-2003, 11:53 PM
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Default Re-installing Crank Pulley

I'm in the middle of a cam swap and need help putting the stock crank pulley back on. The LS1Howto directionsd didn't make much sense to me. I'm not sure if I got the longer bolt, its the one that came with the Thunder Racing cam swap kit. Can anyone run me through the process. And I don't have a torque wrench that will go up to 240 ft/lbs, I think I have to do it by degrees... Thanks
Old 12-30-2003, 12:01 AM
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i just installed my pulley on the seat of the crank and used the old crank bolt and tq it down has hard as i could, my tq wrentch only goes to 150ft/lbs but i used my breaker bar until it would simply not move anymore. then backed out the old bolt and tq'd the new one in to whatever ls1howto says.
Old 12-30-2003, 12:43 AM
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Since you are putting the stock pulley back on then go get a longer bolt. The bolt you need measures M16x2mmx120mm. The stock bolt is only 103mm long. The longer bolt will help you to start to press the pulley back on. Then switch to the used stock bolt and tighten it to 240ft/lbs then remove it and install a new torque to yield bolt from GM and tighten to 37ft/lbs then go an additional 120 degrees. The bolt you got from Thunder Racing is the stock length. Get the longer bolt from an autoparts store. You are only using the longer bolt to get the pulley started. Hope this helps.
Old 12-30-2003, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002SilverWS-6
[snip]
The longer bolt will help you to start to press the pulley back on. Then switch to the used stock bolt and tighten it to 240ft/lbs
[snip]
You are only using the longer bolt to get the pulley started.
[snip]
This part is *very* important. Do not use the longer bolt to seat the pulley, or you'll end up with a broken bolt in the snout of your crank...ask me how I know... Thankfully, a local shop (Thanks NITRO DAVE!) was able to save me from having to remove & replace the crank...
good luck!
Shane
Old 12-30-2003, 09:43 AM
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Here is the easiest pulley install ever. Get an old pot(big enough to put the pulley in) and boil some water. When the water starts to boil put the pulley in the water. Now go out to your car and put some anti-seize on the crank snout and smoke a cigarette(or stare at the clouds for a minute or two if you don't smoke). Now, using some gloves(pulley will be hot) take the pulley out of the water and slide it on the crank snout. If you warmed it up enough it will slide all the way on by hand(if not some gentle persuasion with a dead blow hammer will finish the job). Now wait and let the pulley cool off then install the new crank bolt to proper specs.

Good luck,
Josh
Old 12-30-2003, 12:45 PM
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I am soooooo lost. Why the hell would I use a longer bolt first, remove it, then put in the old one, remove that, and put in the new one?!?! Why don't I just put the new one in the begin with? And I said I don't have a torque wrench that will go up to 240 ft/lbs... Can anyone provide some step by step directions? Thanks.
Old 12-30-2003, 02:00 PM
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Very Important! When you begin to install the pulley back on the crank, the stock bolt will/may only have a couple of threads engaged. If your pulley is tight on the crank, and you start tightening up the bolt to draw on the pulley, you are at risk of stripping the threads off the end of your bolt. Or worse yet, damaging the first couple of threads in the crank.

So, the easy thing to do is to temporarily use a longer bolt just to get the pulley started onto the crank about a 1/2 inch. Then use the old stock bolt to firmly seat the pulley on the crank all the way. Remove the old bolt and discard. Then install the new bolt supplied by Thunder Racing. You see, the new bolt hasn't been torque streached, plus it has fresh locktite on it.

Hope this helps,
John
Old 12-30-2003, 08:47 PM
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Ok, what does it looked like to be torque streched? So I use the long bolt to get the pulley started, then use the old bolt to get it all the way in, then put in the new one for good?

Do I really need to torque the old bolt to 240 ft/lb? What it the point of this? Can't I just thread it in all the way, so the pulley is seated, then remove it, and put in the new bolt? Since I don't have a big torque wrench, do I just tighten the new bolt to 37 ft/lbs, then go another 140 degrees?

Thanks a lot!
Old 12-30-2003, 09:30 PM
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240ft/lbs is tough. Most torque wrenches only go to 150ft/lbs, so just tighten until your ***** are just about to burst then remove the bolt them use the new bolt per directions.
Old 12-30-2003, 09:40 PM
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Use a big breaker bar...

I use a big impact gun and it never came loose.
Old 12-30-2003, 10:09 PM
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Ok, so again, whats the point of putting in the old bolt, torquing it, then removing it? Thanks
Old 12-30-2003, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Ok, so again, whats the point of putting in the old bolt, torquing it, then removing it? Thanks
to seat the pulley.
Old 12-30-2003, 10:22 PM
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Thanks a lot man! Guess I need to get a longer crank bolt. Where could I find one? I looked at True Value hardware and didnt find any. Will an auto parts store have one?
Old 12-31-2003, 07:01 AM
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You don't need a longer crank bolt...just the new one. See my post above.
Old 12-31-2003, 08:53 AM
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OK now I've got some questions to ask too.

While I was putting the Pulley back on the crank I got it back pretty far, and the bolt wasn't getting too much harder to turn (not easy though), and was still moving back. I decided to stop there for now, not having a TQ wrench that goes to 240 either, because if it went back any further, then the pulley would have been farther back than any of the accesories that it was driving, making the belt not run straight, but rather at an angle going too and from the crank pulley.

How would you guys get around this. I don't know what 240 lb/ft feels like so I'm not sure where I should stop turning, and I don't have the $$$ to go buy a new TQ wrench.
Old 01-01-2004, 03:17 PM
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Ok, I tried NO CATZZ's method of heating up the pulley to put it on and it failed miserably to say the least... I used a rubber mallet to get it on as far as I could. The very tip of the pulley is just inside the seal right now. I tried threading the crank bolt in but I could only get 1 to 2 turn before it hit the pulley. Is this enough to push it on, or will I tear out the threads? I can't get a longer bolt anyways, seeing today is New Years and the nearest place that will have one is almost an hour away... What other options to I have? Thanks
Old 01-02-2004, 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 99_1LE_Z
OK now I've got some questions to ask too.

While I was putting the Pulley back on the crank I got it back pretty far, and the bolt wasn't getting too much harder to turn (not easy though), and was still moving back. I decided to stop there for now, not having a TQ wrench that goes to 240 either, because if it went back any further, then the pulley would have been farther back than any of the accesories that it was driving, making the belt not run straight, but rather at an angle going too and from the crank pulley.

How would you guys get around this. I don't know what 240 lb/ft feels like so I'm not sure where I should stop turning, and I don't have the $$$ to go buy a new TQ wrench.
Doesn't Auto Zone or any other Auto parts store rent tools out?You might want to give them a call.I've rented a few tools a couple of times.
Old 01-02-2004, 10:25 AM
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240 ft/lbs is no *****. AT 200 lbs (body weight) I had put my foot against the wheel well and put a good bit of effort into tightening that bolt. needless to say you prolly wont hit it without max effort



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