MSD Blaster coil packs
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,453
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From: Glen Burnie, MD
MSD Blaster coil packs do these have any benefits over the stock ls1's that will make any noticeable difference on a stock bottom end LS1? i mean i will be getting trick flow heads, and a 231/239 LSR cam. already have long tubes, off-road y, SLP LM, LS6 intake, and a Predator tune.
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...Yeah but the guy with 450 at wheels who has them and has had no issues must not have a clue. And the guys with less then that and don't have them but have "heard" about issues are who you listen to. lol
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TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,099
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From: Texas/Afghanistan
uhm...as in diablosport predator?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 3
From: Glen Burnie, MD
yes, diablo sport tune. works good so far. my brother says that i am going to big on the cam though, i disagree. sure it will be a little tough to drive on the street, but not that bad right.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,453
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From: Glen Burnie, MD
and, of coarse there is this GT500 that keeps talkin smack, he wont even race me cause he says i don't stand a chance. he works in the building across from me, he is such a pansy. so if i am making 450 to the wheels, is that safe to say i am at LS7 power levels?
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2
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From: fall river mass
little help on msd coils i just brought these coils and not knowing the issue's. That's my fault but when i install them on the car i had miss firing on 2,4,6 pistons i thought i have three bad one's then i put the stock coils back on only 2,4,6 still had miss firing but was better. Do you think the other MSD coils is effecting the Stock one's and a side note MSD coils on 1,3,5,7,8 are fine with no miss firing
Do research, MSD's have a high failure rate.
Accel's do not seems to be reliable either.
Best choice time and time again used by many builders and hot rodders are the truck coils with heatsinks in them. There is only 1 type like this by AC Delco and can randomly be found in GM trucks, vans, SUV's. It is a misconception that it is only found in 6.0L applications when in fact they can be found randomly in other GM vehicles mentioned.
I just got done reading a 21 page thread on this.
Accel's do not seems to be reliable either.
Best choice time and time again used by many builders and hot rodders are the truck coils with heatsinks in them. There is only 1 type like this by AC Delco and can randomly be found in GM trucks, vans, SUV's. It is a misconception that it is only found in 6.0L applications when in fact they can be found randomly in other GM vehicles mentioned.
I just got done reading a 21 page thread on this.
These are my "notes" I took from the thread.
I always surf LS1Tech Forums with Microsoft Word side-by-side.
I always surf LS1Tech Forums with Microsoft Word side-by-side.
OK guys, I finally had the chance to fool with the left side coil packs and moving everything in the way.
First, I snipped through the spot welded tab on the fuel line just after the quick-disconnect. This allowed me to carefully bend the tube upwards. I did this a little at a time until it cleared the number five coil. I put a 2 X 3 block between the intake and the tube and used a large bent prybar pushing the tube upwards. The snipped tab doesn’t look too neat but to get at it to make it nice, you’d need to remove the fuel rail from the car. You ain’t gonna see it unless you really look for it.
Next, I removed the heat shield wrap from the fuel and evap hose. I also removed the hard line from the solenoid and the brass nipple on the front of the intake manifold. I put a short rubber fuel hose between the solenoid and this nipple. Then I trimmed the evap hose going to the chassis hardline just enough until it looked right. These lines are hard nylon tubes in a soft rubber hose sheathing. I used a short bit of hose with a tie-wrap looped through it and around the coil pack bracket to prevent it from wobbling around. I had to extend the wires for the solenoid plug, my good-n-hot iron saw to it.
This work took about a half an hour. The coil bracket now mounts up with no problems.
The truck coil brackets are 10457736, 2 needed.
The LS2 wiring harnesses are 12601824, 2 needed.
The coils are 10457730 (AC D585), 8 needed.
Go to a junkyard, find a 6.0 truck motor that's still intact, disconnect the the coil pack from the pcm, it's a single connecter, then unbolt the whole bracket assembly. Now you have the coils, the wiring harness, and the coils ready to bolt onto your car. If you still have the stock fuel rail, you'll have to adjust where it connects to the line from the tank.
I didn't read all the posts on this thread but just wanted to mention this to everyone if not already. When installing the truck coils with the heat sinks in f-bodies copy the "Spark Dwell Time" tables from a truck pcm and take advantage of those heat sinks and gain a little more power.
First, I snipped through the spot welded tab on the fuel line just after the quick-disconnect. This allowed me to carefully bend the tube upwards. I did this a little at a time until it cleared the number five coil. I put a 2 X 3 block between the intake and the tube and used a large bent prybar pushing the tube upwards. The snipped tab doesn’t look too neat but to get at it to make it nice, you’d need to remove the fuel rail from the car. You ain’t gonna see it unless you really look for it.
Next, I removed the heat shield wrap from the fuel and evap hose. I also removed the hard line from the solenoid and the brass nipple on the front of the intake manifold. I put a short rubber fuel hose between the solenoid and this nipple. Then I trimmed the evap hose going to the chassis hardline just enough until it looked right. These lines are hard nylon tubes in a soft rubber hose sheathing. I used a short bit of hose with a tie-wrap looped through it and around the coil pack bracket to prevent it from wobbling around. I had to extend the wires for the solenoid plug, my good-n-hot iron saw to it.
This work took about a half an hour. The coil bracket now mounts up with no problems.
The truck coil brackets are 10457736, 2 needed.
The LS2 wiring harnesses are 12601824, 2 needed.
The coils are 10457730 (AC D585), 8 needed.
Go to a junkyard, find a 6.0 truck motor that's still intact, disconnect the the coil pack from the pcm, it's a single connecter, then unbolt the whole bracket assembly. Now you have the coils, the wiring harness, and the coils ready to bolt onto your car. If you still have the stock fuel rail, you'll have to adjust where it connects to the line from the tank.
I didn't read all the posts on this thread but just wanted to mention this to everyone if not already. When installing the truck coils with the heat sinks in f-bodies copy the "Spark Dwell Time" tables from a truck pcm and take advantage of those heat sinks and gain a little more power.
[QUOTE=trans_am7935;13149857]and, of coarse there is this GT500 that keeps talkin smack, he wont even race me cause he says i don't stand a chance. he works in the building across from me, he is such a pansy. so if i am making 450 to the wheels, is that safe to say i am at LS7 power levels?[/QUOTE]
Peak HP wise yes but the larger displacement 427 LS7 will have a MUCH broader torque curve and therefore be faster....
I have seen a 800rwhp turbo car run them so........ at least 800...
EDIT: Forgot to mention.... If your getting the TFS cnc'ed 215's or "as cast" 220's that TEA has "massaged" I would revisit your cam choice". I am no cam guru but I can tell you the exhaust ports are so efficient on those heads the cam you are looking at has too much exhaust bias and will prolly be a little lazy down low. IIRC the TFS head cam packages they put together only have a 2* exhaust split. Something like a TV2 would really work well I think. Vengeance Racing vrx cams seem to work with those heads too. Call Ron up down there and he will fix ya up. They had a sale on TFS heads and cam packages when I talked to them last... a month or so ago....
Peak HP wise yes but the larger displacement 427 LS7 will have a MUCH broader torque curve and therefore be faster....
I have seen a 800rwhp turbo car run them so........ at least 800...
EDIT: Forgot to mention.... If your getting the TFS cnc'ed 215's or "as cast" 220's that TEA has "massaged" I would revisit your cam choice". I am no cam guru but I can tell you the exhaust ports are so efficient on those heads the cam you are looking at has too much exhaust bias and will prolly be a little lazy down low. IIRC the TFS head cam packages they put together only have a 2* exhaust split. Something like a TV2 would really work well I think. Vengeance Racing vrx cams seem to work with those heads too. Call Ron up down there and he will fix ya up. They had a sale on TFS heads and cam packages when I talked to them last... a month or so ago....
Last edited by SOMbitch; Apr 13, 2010 at 11:36 PM.