High idle after P&P throttle body swap
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I just installed a stock LS1 P&P TB on my 2002 Z28. The install went fine but when I started it up and took it for a test drive, I noticed that it idled unusually high and after I revved it, it took longer than normal for it to "come down". It's idling around 1100+ RPM right now, normally it's around 8-900 RPM and returns to idle quickly after a rev.
I adjusted the "post" that the throttle arm rests on the throttle body housing and lowered it to where part of one thread was showing, similar to my original TB. When I rev it, it'll kind of hang around 1600 RPM for about 3 seconds, then quickly drop to 1100 RPM.
It's like the car thinks the throttle position is slightly open, and it's not idling right. There's a SES light which I haven't checked, but it came on earlier today prior for the EVAP system (PO400) so it's possible that is what its on for again.
Thoughts?
I adjusted the "post" that the throttle arm rests on the throttle body housing and lowered it to where part of one thread was showing, similar to my original TB. When I rev it, it'll kind of hang around 1600 RPM for about 3 seconds, then quickly drop to 1100 RPM.
It's like the car thinks the throttle position is slightly open, and it's not idling right. There's a SES light which I haven't checked, but it came on earlier today prior for the EVAP system (PO400) so it's possible that is what its on for again.
Thoughts?
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plugging/covering the idle air hole is possibly a band-aid and not a fix. there are a couple other things that you can try prior to that. the are you sure you reinstalled the the o-ring on the iac sensor? do you know how to do a manual re-learn with the tps??
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the way i always suggest it be done is as follows...
with the key off, unplug the tps / throttle position sensor
turn the key on / forward in the on position for 10-15 sec
turn the key off
reconnect the sensor, start her up and see how she acts
still tho, double check the o-ring for proper install and damage.
with the key off, unplug the tps / throttle position sensor
turn the key on / forward in the on position for 10-15 sec
turn the key off
reconnect the sensor, start her up and see how she acts
still tho, double check the o-ring for proper install and damage.
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You're right...all I have to do is remove the air intake haha. Anyway, here it is. The TB looks straight and the seller was great to deal with, so I am certainly not trying to slight them.
![](http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/evo4620/P1000169.jpg)
![](http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/evo4620/P1000169.jpg)
![](http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/evo4620/P1000170.jpg)
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the way i always suggest it be done is as follows...
with the key off, unplug the tps / throttle position sensor
turn the key on / forward in the on position for 10-15 sec
turn the key off
reconnect the sensor, start her up and see how she acts
still tho, double check the o-ring for proper install and damage.
with the key off, unplug the tps / throttle position sensor
turn the key on / forward in the on position for 10-15 sec
turn the key off
reconnect the sensor, start her up and see how she acts
still tho, double check the o-ring for proper install and damage.
I dunno. Maybe the TPS or IAC is crapped out and my fondling it during the swap finally made it go kaput. I guess I can have O'Reilly's scan it tomorrow and see if it pulls up anything suspicious.
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I certainly don't feel comfortable putting a bolt through that hole so I guess I'll just take the TB off.
*edit*
I just went out and tried covering up the hole...yep...idled like normal with just the smallest amount of the hole covered up. After comparing the two, the ported TB's hole is a tiny bit bigger which I guess makes all the difference. It's too bad it won't work for me, it felt great at WOT.
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I'm going to swap my stock blade back on and see what happens.
Thanks for everyone's help!