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DIY - Junkman's Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement/Relocation for Dummies!

Old 07-18-2010, 09:09 PM
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Yep, got her done and I didn't have to take off the manifold. Just took forever cuz had to wait for the part store to deliver from hub and the rain to give me a couple of lucky breaks. She's good now and finally reading some good PSI on the oil gauge.
Old 07-18-2010, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1_Nica

Yep, got her done and I didn't have to take off the manifold. Just took forever cuz had to wait for the part store to deliver from hub and the rain to give me a couple of lucky breaks. She's good now and finally reading some good PSI on the oil gauge.
Some guys just move the manifold forward and then change the EOP sensor. I like to be able to see every thing that I am doing and thus, I'll take as much stuff apart as necessary. For me, it's more about learning than the actual fix. I like taking stuff apart and then putting it back together.
Old 08-10-2010, 09:33 AM
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gonna use today!
Old 08-10-2010, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by smg267
gonna use today!
Let me know how it goes.
Old 08-10-2010, 04:45 PM
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Used the guide word for word to install my fast 90. I think I have a vac. leak somewhere. After I installed it idles at 1.5k and idle stays up when I give it gas. I'll take another look at it in 2 or 3 days had enough for now.

Side note: I can't thank you enought the write up it was perfect!!!! Espically all the b.s. behind the intake.
Old 08-10-2010, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by smg267
Used the guide word for word to install my fast 90. I think I have a vac. leak somewhere. After I installed it idles at 1.5k and idle stays up when I give it gas. I'll take another look at it in 2 or 3 days had enough for now.

Side note: I can't thank you enought the write up it was perfect!!!! Espically all the b.s. behind the intake.
Yea, behind the intake is a mother! Speaking of that area, can you hear the exhaust leak? If so, do you have that same small vacuum hose that my engine has back there? That is a common leak spot on this repair as guys sometimes forget to plug that back in or they don't plug it in good enough. Check that area.


Old 08-10-2010, 06:41 PM
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Sticky this Please i need it for later.
Old 08-10-2010, 07:11 PM
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Very nice write up but wow $250 its a pretty penny to relocate that oil pressure switch
Old 08-10-2010, 08:15 PM
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figured out my problem. Sticking throttle body. Gonna work on it tomorrow. If you lived closer I would buy you a couple beers!!! This write up trumps anything I have seen on ls1howto.com, etc...... It is great b/c you can use it as a reference for just about anything!
Old 08-11-2010, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by smg267
figured out my problem. Sticking throttle body. Gonna work on it tomorrow. If you lived closer I would buy you a couple beers!!! This write up trumps anything I have seen on ls1howto.com, etc...... It is great b/c you can use it as a reference for just about anything!
Thanks man. I have to give credit also to the guys in this thread who read it and corrected my mistakes. They helped make it as useful as it is. Thanks for letting me know that it worked for you also.
Old 08-11-2010, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Esco99
Very nice write up but wow $250 its a pretty penny to relocate that oil pressure switch
A buddy of mine felt the same way so he built his own using the same exact parts. He saved $10 bucks. After all the running around that he did locating the parts, he wasted that much in gas!
Old 08-11-2010, 02:14 AM
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Great Write up!
Old 08-11-2010, 06:54 AM
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Good write up. I have an Fbody and did the newer valley cover install last year. I didn't have to mess with draining coolant either. I was able to just remove the injectors and lay the fuel rail off to the side also so no fuel to deal with.
Old 10-22-2010, 12:49 AM
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I read the write up, I'll admit rather quickly but was very appreciative of the info. I have a couple questions, though. I know that the kit works on f bodies. (I have a 2002 Z28) I'm currently leaking heavily through this sensor. I installed a gang of parts and I also installed a HV oil pump from Melling Select Performance. Before I started leaking I checked and the gauge returned to zero after I turned the key. When I started the car I'd idle at 60 pounds and when I ran, depending on the RPM, I would vary between 60 and 80 pounds. I read the "engine can't produce more pressure" on your write up. I'm assuming that this is stated for a stock oil pump?

I saw your relocation kit and I would love to know where I could buy it. I was directed to a link and the product was no longer available. I see that the crush ring is included, Do I need to add an additional sealer? I'm favorable to Teflon w/ Locktite. I use the stuff on my NO2 AN fitting. I thank you in advance for reading this lengthy post.
Old 10-22-2010, 02:12 AM
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When I stated that the oil pump cannot make more pressure than it is designed to make, I was talking about a stock pump but my statement is based on logic (as my mind works anyway). If a stock or aftermarket pump is designed to make 60psi for example, and you put it in a brand new motor, then the maximum oil pressure you should ever see is 60psi's because that is what that pump was designed to produce. As your engine wears over the years and parts begin to grind away, the actual space inside your engine begins to grow. Now we're not talking about a lot, just tiny amounts. As this space grows, the maximum pressure you will see should start to slightly decrease because the oil pump is designed to work inside a engine with so many cubic inches. So aftermarket or not, a oil pump is designed to have a certain output and if working correctly or incorrectly, it can't produce more than it is designed to do, only less.

I didn't add an additional sealer as the gentleman who designed the kit told me that there was no need to. I checked his website and the kit appears to still be available. I don't know what link you followed but here is his website where you can purchase the kit. You can also contact him via this link. If you can't contact him (he may take a minute to return your call), let us know. I heard that he was in a freak accident and may not be doing this type of stuff anymore. You can buy the parts to make your own but I can tell you from experience that you'll only save about $10.

Lastly, let me add that I am no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination so my logic could be off. I'm just a guy who was fed up with being ripped off by dealerships and crappy mechanics so I decided to figure out how to do all the work on my Corvette myself. At least I do have the GM service manual so I'm not flying blind. If my logic is flawed, hopefully someone will chime in and educate the both of us. I'm all about learning and appreciate the feedback of guys here who actually know what they are doing. I am not remotely that guy.

I just know what I know.

Last edited by Junkman2008; 10-06-2019 at 01:06 PM.
Old 10-22-2010, 02:20 AM
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wow awesome write up this needs to be a sticky
Old 11-10-2010, 07:35 PM
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Off the top of your head,Do you know what the size of the braided hose is? -3? -4? Thank you for your time.
Old 11-10-2010, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by veloxetmortifer
Off the top of your head,Do you know what the size of the braided hose is? -3? -4? Thank you for your time.
I don't have a clue. It came as part of the relocate kit that I bought. You can contact Perry at DPE Corvettes. That's who I got it from.
Old 11-10-2010, 09:31 PM
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Have the high pressure problem, glad to see it is a common problem. LS1 engine in a 1972 Chevy short box, have oodles of room. good right up, thanks
Old 11-11-2010, 02:55 AM
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Must be nice to have all that room!

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