The fix for my endless alternator failure's
No problem, good luck. If it is a bad pulley bearing though don't wait too long it could lock up and leave you stranded and you may also loose your belt. I lost a belt once because my power steering pulley broke into pieces and the belt was less than a couple months old, pissed me off because they are about 40 dollars for the premium belts and that's what it was.
Some people have added a larger wire from the alternator to the battery to carry the higher amperage which is a good idea, I haven't yet, but it is on the list of things to do. I have put a little over 10 thousand miles on my car since doing this and have not had an issue. The only thing that could be bad about having the higher amperage is not having a wire rated high enough to carry it, so that is why it is good to replace the factory cable with a larger one, or add another cable in parrallel to the existing one. I also have a system in my car so I am pulling more amps than the regular load, and still not a single problem.
Just puchased a 145amp chevy tahoa alternator used one on ebay. so it just bolts on no problem right? Im doing a Kemember and since i have to take the altinator out anyway to ge to the motor ount i might as well do the altinator too. THis fixes the pulsation in the lights when your idling right?
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Verdad Gallardo sweet! hope i got the 4 pin one though. Forgot to ask the seller about that, but like others said, for $40 bucks and free shipping, not complaining lol Ill mod the plug if i have to. Any chance of a pic of where to attach the new bigger wire to carry the new found amps?
Well I went down this route. 
I got the 130Amp alternator. I just installed it an hour ago.
All my lights (headlights,tail lights, radio, dash lights) were pulsating rapidly. The volts on the gauge were sitting around 14-15.. but the needle would be bouncing back and forth rapidly. I had gotten alternator similar to the stock one. I put that in last night and it was worse than the stock one I took off. I would press the brakes and everything would go dim. The needle jumped alot when brakes or turn signal would come on. Took it off this morning (took like 5 minutes) and exchanged it for a truck alternator. He had the 130Amp, so I took that one. I don't have a sound system or anything that would take alot of power. So i figured 130 would be more than plenty.
As it is right now, everything works well. From what I could see, I dont pulsating lights anymore. Needle was firm in its spot the whole time.
I'll take it out later tonight for a drive.
I got the 130Amp alternator. I just installed it an hour ago.
All my lights (headlights,tail lights, radio, dash lights) were pulsating rapidly. The volts on the gauge were sitting around 14-15.. but the needle would be bouncing back and forth rapidly. I had gotten alternator similar to the stock one. I put that in last night and it was worse than the stock one I took off. I would press the brakes and everything would go dim. The needle jumped alot when brakes or turn signal would come on. Took it off this morning (took like 5 minutes) and exchanged it for a truck alternator. He had the 130Amp, so I took that one. I don't have a sound system or anything that would take alot of power. So i figured 130 would be more than plenty.
As it is right now, everything works well. From what I could see, I dont pulsating lights anymore. Needle was firm in its spot the whole time.
I'll take it out later tonight for a drive.
Guys little FYI,
I am running the AD244 and the pulley that came with it, the pulley seems to be too far forward, to the naked eye it looks like the belt is misaligned making the belt chrip when over 1,800 RPMS.
I am going to pull my factory alt pulley and new AD244 pulley compare the two side by side, I will mostly likely installthe factory f-body alt... pulley just to try it out (if it fits!!!) , this chrip noise is killing me.
I have also slightly adjusted the power steering pulley but with with no luck.
I have tried 3 different belts, its not the actual belt, When I reinstall my factory alt... the chrip is gone.
good luck
TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 843
Likes: 0
From: Roseville, Ca.
Just replaced mine with a junkyard 145 amp. My belt was a super tight fit before, probably because I had the wrong size after so many pulley swaps. I had to get a new one 1/2" longer. I would imagine the case diameter difference causes this, because the pulley diameters are identical. If I had the right belt to begin with, it wouldn't have been an issue.
So far, so good!
So far, so good!
TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 843
Likes: 0
From: Roseville, Ca.
Well to help confirm I got a 2003 Tahoe 145amp 4 pin alternator.
It fits but you may have to gently and slightly bend the powersteering lines around it to fit it in there. If you have stock sway bars it will fit in there with a bit of "coaxing" lol but i would recomend just taking the swaybar off anyway but its doable. BUT if you have an aftermarket sway thats bigger you might as well take it off.
The pulley is the same, the bolt holes fit exacltly minus one thats not there lol, and plugs right in there as long as you have the 4 pin plug in.
So far no flickering. Still having feedback thouhg but I think thats from the stereo going out.
I recommend this to anyone that looking into getting a new (or used ALT) and need alittle extra power or just need a new one due to the old one going out anyway.
THis is a simple plug and play with an extra bolt left over the two main ones i think re plenty strong enough to handle the new alt. If you are going FI then you might want to look into a stronger ALT bracket.
It fits but you may have to gently and slightly bend the powersteering lines around it to fit it in there. If you have stock sway bars it will fit in there with a bit of "coaxing" lol but i would recomend just taking the swaybar off anyway but its doable. BUT if you have an aftermarket sway thats bigger you might as well take it off.
The pulley is the same, the bolt holes fit exacltly minus one thats not there lol, and plugs right in there as long as you have the 4 pin plug in.
So far no flickering. Still having feedback thouhg but I think thats from the stereo going out.
I recommend this to anyone that looking into getting a new (or used ALT) and need alittle extra power or just need a new one due to the old one going out anyway.
THis is a simple plug and play with an extra bolt left over
the two main ones i think re plenty strong enough to handle the new alt. If you are going FI then you might want to look into a stronger ALT bracket. 
Bringing this back up.
Instead of buying the 145A truck alternator, I'm thinking about having my stock one rebuilt w/ better parts. That way I won't have any of the pulley issues and any possible issues that could arise with there being no rear bracket. My stock alternator has been sitting on my shelf for years (aftermarket one has been hanging on), so why not. Any disadvantages to this?
Also, could a weak alternator lead to idle issues? At idle, my voltage gauge usually hangs out right at 13v or slightly below. When I get idle surging, the gauge bounces around. Now obviously the gauge will drop as the RPMs drop, but I'm wondering if the alternator could be causing the voltage drop instead of visa-versa. I've been trying to diagnose the idle surge and this is just one of the causes I'm trying to investigate since it is a 5-year old aftermarket alternator.
Instead of buying the 145A truck alternator, I'm thinking about having my stock one rebuilt w/ better parts. That way I won't have any of the pulley issues and any possible issues that could arise with there being no rear bracket. My stock alternator has been sitting on my shelf for years (aftermarket one has been hanging on), so why not. Any disadvantages to this?
Also, could a weak alternator lead to idle issues? At idle, my voltage gauge usually hangs out right at 13v or slightly below. When I get idle surging, the gauge bounces around. Now obviously the gauge will drop as the RPMs drop, but I'm wondering if the alternator could be causing the voltage drop instead of visa-versa. I've been trying to diagnose the idle surge and this is just one of the causes I'm trying to investigate since it is a 5-year old aftermarket alternator.