The fix for my endless alternator failure's
09-04-2020, 07:12 PM
#1121
good to go. Had to delete the plastic back cover but who needs that anyway. Also had to move up a inch on the belt but I also had to adjust the mounting bracket some which had to do with that. I may order a half size down just incase. Haven’t test drove it yet but volts are pegged at 14. Thanks again.
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00pooterSS (09-08-2020)
09-06-2020, 02:50 PM
#1123
It’s a vented cover with many holes. As long as non of the stuff on the back is in contact with anything it will be fine. The reason to delete it is because with it on it hits the oil filler neck and the head. It could be trimmed but at that point 3/4 of the cover would be gone anyway.
09-08-2020, 11:35 AM
#1124
good to go. Had to delete the plastic back cover but who needs that anyway. Also had to move up a inch on the belt but I also had to adjust the mounting bracket some which had to do with that. I may order a half size down just incase. Haven’t test drove it yet but volts are pegged at 14. Thanks again.
Drilled a bunch of holes in the back cover of my last 145 that I put on my 04 truck with a really healthy stereo system that really needed 2 alternators. Drove it daily for years like that no issues.
10-11-2020, 07:22 AM
#1125
Remy is just another one of those old brand names that was part of the old AC Delco umbrella that's long gone.
AC = Albert Champion... yes, THAT Champion... he started the Champion Spark Plug Co. with some partners, but when he got disgruntled with them and struck out on his own, that company sued him for using his own name, so he called his new one AC instead
Delco = Dayton Engineering Laboratories Company... was owned by Charles Kettering until GM bought it... made the first practical mass-produced electric starter, then ignition systems and generators... basically the entire auto electric system at the time... Kettering stayed with GM after that and rose to a high position within it
Remy = an old company in the same business as Delco (a competitor); bought by United Motors and merged into Delco around WW1 by GM after GM bought United
GM merged Delco and AC into that one familiar one brand name sometime in the 70s. Remy, Anderson, United, Packard Electric, etc. all were included. I think Harrison (radiators and A/C and such) too.
All of that went to the company that was called Delphi for awhile, when GM divested it in the 90s; except Remy, which had been divested on its own a couple of years earlier. Remy still licenses the Delco name. Delphi has split stuff off, bought other stuff, renamed itself, gone bankrupt, moved to foreign countries to evade taxes, etc. It's quite the story. No wonder GM kicked it to the curb.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aptiv
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ACDelco
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delco_Electronics
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remy_International
http://www.delcoremy.com/alternators...y-model-family
AFAIK the alternators for our cars & trucks aren't a Remy product but I could easily be wrong. Since all of those distinctions are just brand names and licensing and other such paperwork and money shuffling and box printing (marketing) among a bunch of interrelated incestuous companies whose relationships go back more than a century, it's hard for me to say whose design or product or other REALITY they really are.
AC = Albert Champion... yes, THAT Champion... he started the Champion Spark Plug Co. with some partners, but when he got disgruntled with them and struck out on his own, that company sued him for using his own name, so he called his new one AC instead
Delco = Dayton Engineering Laboratories Company... was owned by Charles Kettering until GM bought it... made the first practical mass-produced electric starter, then ignition systems and generators... basically the entire auto electric system at the time... Kettering stayed with GM after that and rose to a high position within it
Remy = an old company in the same business as Delco (a competitor); bought by United Motors and merged into Delco around WW1 by GM after GM bought United
GM merged Delco and AC into that one familiar one brand name sometime in the 70s. Remy, Anderson, United, Packard Electric, etc. all were included. I think Harrison (radiators and A/C and such) too.
All of that went to the company that was called Delphi for awhile, when GM divested it in the 90s; except Remy, which had been divested on its own a couple of years earlier. Remy still licenses the Delco name. Delphi has split stuff off, bought other stuff, renamed itself, gone bankrupt, moved to foreign countries to evade taxes, etc. It's quite the story. No wonder GM kicked it to the curb.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aptiv
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ACDelco
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delco_Electronics
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remy_International
http://www.delcoremy.com/alternators...y-model-family
AFAIK the alternators for our cars & trucks aren't a Remy product but I could easily be wrong. Since all of those distinctions are just brand names and licensing and other such paperwork and money shuffling and box printing (marketing) among a bunch of interrelated incestuous companies whose relationships go back more than a century, it's hard for me to say whose design or product or other REALITY they really are.
edit: I always thought that the champion spark plug was for lawn mowers and other small engines. champion must be a well built SP because my boat engine 04 johnson 175HP last of the carbed 2 strokes won't run properly w/out the champions. they force you to purchase 8 when you only need 6.
engine ran like crape w/ NGKs which is what I use in my car TR55 and my 5.3 tow vehicle.
10-11-2020, 10:36 AM
#1126
TECH Senior Member
Back about 30-40 or so years ago, Champion was one of THE good spark plug brands, and widely used. I guess not so much now.....
11-03-2020, 04:21 PM
#1127
I have been following this thread as I was having issues with my alternator after a rebuild. The shop I took it too worked with me, but it was a struggle. Here is what I did and the parts used. Sorry for the novel, and hope the information helps someone.
Rebuild 1 - cleaned alternator and replaced regulator as it was faulty. Put an aftermarket replacement in(D702). First rev past 6000rpm, regulator popped.
Rebuild 2 - replaced regulator with HD version(D702xHD). Would charge normal, but as soon as you were higher than 6100rpm, it would stop charging. Once below 6100, it would start charging again. After a couple of hits, it took out the diode pack and regulator
Rebuild 3 - replaced rotor, regulator, diode pack. This worked very well. Would charge and kept charging at high rpm. Everything appeared to be great until i pulled the car into the garage. At idle, voltage would drop every 17seconds like clockwork as if a huge load was put on the electrical system. Voltage would drop to 12V and then back up to 14.1V. I was able to get my brothers alternator to confirm it was nothing on the car side, and it was not. For some reason, the regulator would 'trip' and have to re-energize. It was the same effect as before, but now it was at idle and not wot. The shop had a tester and we ran through some scenarios. First was 3000 alternator rpm and increased the load. Everything worked perfectly. We then dropped the rpm to 2200 and slowly increased the load. As soon as we hit 38 amps, the regulator would trip. This is using the same HD regulator as above. Replacing the rotor fixed the wot charging but now idle was an issue.
Rebuild 4 - Replaced stator. Made no difference and didn't think it would, but did it for science.
Rebuild 5 - Grabbed a different CS130 alternator off the shelf(same style regulator) and put the same load on it. The alternator would do the exact same thing, At this point the alternator was completely rebuilt with new parts and they were at a loss. The shop had a unit that was rebuilt due to bad bearings that was sitting on the shelf but had an original regulator in it. They put that unit on the tester and it worked without an issue. Put the regulator in my unit, and the problem was solved. Voltage never dipped on the same load as above and charges at wot.
It looks like I had a combination of different problems. I think in my situation, I had a bad rotor, regulator and diode pack. Not all were defective at the same time, but became the weakest link once the other was resolved. The other issue is that not everyone has a spare GM unit they can get their hands on. This is where my brothers comes into play. I noticed that we both had the same diode pack(Regitar RD-97B), but his regulator was a Taditel T719. Based on this I would think these combos may be the ticket. Again, not saying this will fix the issue for anyone else, but for me this is what I had to do.
The other thing that I don't recall seeing in the thread is the mention of a AD230 unit - these came on late 99-01 trucks. This is basically the same case style as the CS130D(minus the mount on the rear) but uses similar internals to the AD244. The only downside is that the AD230 is a 105amp unit and the AD244 is 145amp. This may be a suitable unit if space is tight - best of both worlds...
Rebuild 1 - cleaned alternator and replaced regulator as it was faulty. Put an aftermarket replacement in(D702). First rev past 6000rpm, regulator popped.
Rebuild 2 - replaced regulator with HD version(D702xHD). Would charge normal, but as soon as you were higher than 6100rpm, it would stop charging. Once below 6100, it would start charging again. After a couple of hits, it took out the diode pack and regulator
Rebuild 3 - replaced rotor, regulator, diode pack. This worked very well. Would charge and kept charging at high rpm. Everything appeared to be great until i pulled the car into the garage. At idle, voltage would drop every 17seconds like clockwork as if a huge load was put on the electrical system. Voltage would drop to 12V and then back up to 14.1V. I was able to get my brothers alternator to confirm it was nothing on the car side, and it was not. For some reason, the regulator would 'trip' and have to re-energize. It was the same effect as before, but now it was at idle and not wot. The shop had a tester and we ran through some scenarios. First was 3000 alternator rpm and increased the load. Everything worked perfectly. We then dropped the rpm to 2200 and slowly increased the load. As soon as we hit 38 amps, the regulator would trip. This is using the same HD regulator as above. Replacing the rotor fixed the wot charging but now idle was an issue.
Rebuild 4 - Replaced stator. Made no difference and didn't think it would, but did it for science.
Rebuild 5 - Grabbed a different CS130 alternator off the shelf(same style regulator) and put the same load on it. The alternator would do the exact same thing, At this point the alternator was completely rebuilt with new parts and they were at a loss. The shop had a unit that was rebuilt due to bad bearings that was sitting on the shelf but had an original regulator in it. They put that unit on the tester and it worked without an issue. Put the regulator in my unit, and the problem was solved. Voltage never dipped on the same load as above and charges at wot.
It looks like I had a combination of different problems. I think in my situation, I had a bad rotor, regulator and diode pack. Not all were defective at the same time, but became the weakest link once the other was resolved. The other issue is that not everyone has a spare GM unit they can get their hands on. This is where my brothers comes into play. I noticed that we both had the same diode pack(Regitar RD-97B), but his regulator was a Taditel T719. Based on this I would think these combos may be the ticket. Again, not saying this will fix the issue for anyone else, but for me this is what I had to do.
The other thing that I don't recall seeing in the thread is the mention of a AD230 unit - these came on late 99-01 trucks. This is basically the same case style as the CS130D(minus the mount on the rear) but uses similar internals to the AD244. The only downside is that the AD230 is a 105amp unit and the AD244 is 145amp. This may be a suitable unit if space is tight - best of both worlds...
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G Atsma (11-03-2020)
11-04-2020, 01:53 PM
#1128
Exactly why I started this whole thing 10 years ago, then only components that held up were the OE components. The only way I could get an alternator with OE components for less than $500 was to use used alternators. By the time I had the issue F body cars were picked clean so the truck alternator was the ticket since there were so many of them in yards.
The CS130 alternator would also work, funny you mention that, I have a factory original sitting right here 10 feet away from me I've been holding onto for years.
The cs130 should have been added to this a long time ago but I was hyper focused on a better alternator and higher output, the cs would have been great also for guys that didn't need or want much extra amperage.
The CS130 alternator would also work, funny you mention that, I have a factory original sitting right here 10 feet away from me I've been holding onto for years.
The cs130 should have been added to this a long time ago but I was hyper focused on a better alternator and higher output, the cs would have been great also for guys that didn't need or want much extra amperage.
04-16-2021, 07:13 AM
#1129
Exactly why I started this whole thing 10 years ago, then only components that held up were the OE components. The only way I could get an alternator with OE components for less than $500 was to use used alternators. By the time I had the issue F body cars were picked clean so the truck alternator was the ticket since there were so many of them in yards.
The CS130 alternator would also work, funny you mention that, I have a factory original sitting right here 10 feet away from me I've been holding onto for years.
The cs130 should have been added to this a long time ago but I was hyper focused on a better alternator and higher output, the cs would have been great also for guys that didn't need or want much extra amperage.
The CS130 alternator would also work, funny you mention that, I have a factory original sitting right here 10 feet away from me I've been holding onto for years.
The cs130 should have been added to this a long time ago but I was hyper focused on a better alternator and higher output, the cs would have been great also for guys that didn't need or want much extra amperage.
are you Guys still getting ad244 alt.s for the Fbodys at like LQK I've noticed that whenever a large van/truck 1500+ series these larger 6.0 LS engines& trans go very quick.
I'd love to finalley resolve the charging w/ AC issue only in summer w/ a brand new ad244.
?1.what donor car has the SC130
?2.please recommend a upgrade alt. for the L33. how is youre 014 holding up.what kindof of power w/ headers and I assume tune.
?3.recommend brand new for either sc130 or the ad244. links would be greats forgive me that I didn't read complete thread at time of writing this, to find these answers.I will be reading for the answers however if you have the quickie answer would also be great. Thanks
Last edited by badmfkr; 04-16-2021 at 07:25 AM.
04-16-2021, 10:40 AM
#1130
The alternator we were talking about was the other truck alternator, the smaller one that is 105 amp.
Basically the whole point is to try and get a used OEM alternator, it doesn't have to be a kg3 145 amp. The main thing is to get a QUALITY one. I chose to make this about the 145 amp so that guys could get a good one, that is also high output. But the high output is not necessary for your typical f body car.
If you're having a hard time finding a used one, you can try a 145 amp truck alternator from autozone, they work better than the ones for the f body car that fail left and right.
Basically the whole point is to try and get a used OEM alternator, it doesn't have to be a kg3 145 amp. The main thing is to get a QUALITY one. I chose to make this about the 145 amp so that guys could get a good one, that is also high output. But the high output is not necessary for your typical f body car.
If you're having a hard time finding a used one, you can try a 145 amp truck alternator from autozone, they work better than the ones for the f body car that fail left and right.
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G Atsma (04-16-2021)
04-16-2021, 10:47 AM
#1131
TECH Senior Member
Proving to be a VERY useful thread, Pooter!
Should be a sticky.....
Should be a sticky.....
04-17-2021, 07:20 AM
#1134
excellent infor on belts .
what would be a upgraded alt. for the L33 5.3 engine I'm not sure it's amperage it appears to be a smaller case just like the oem for fbodys. so it's proballey the 105amp.
I'd like a more powerfull alt.
are the belts lenghtened a inch at a time meaning each larger belt is 1" longer?
and yes I got lucky w/ f-body oem belt fitting the ad244.
thanks.
what would be a upgraded alt. for the L33 5.3 engine I'm not sure it's amperage it appears to be a smaller case just like the oem for fbodys. so it's proballey the 105amp.
I'd like a more powerfull alt.
are the belts lenghtened a inch at a time meaning each larger belt is 1" longer?
and yes I got lucky w/ f-body oem belt fitting the ad244.
thanks.
04-17-2021, 07:38 AM
#1135
Same for you as for everybody else.
Get the one for the KG3 (145 amp) option.
Belts come in mostly random increments. No particular "steps". You might not even need a longer one, but if you do, it'll be maybe 1" longer. No more than that.
Get the one for the KG3 (145 amp) option.
Belts come in mostly random increments. No particular "steps". You might not even need a longer one, but if you do, it'll be maybe 1" longer. No more than that.
04-17-2021, 11:51 AM
#1136
I have been using the kg3 145 alternator in my trans am for a few years now with no issues at all. I now want to upgrade the alt in my 2005 Tahoe as well but it has that charging system that stops charging when the battery is fully charged. Will the bigger kg3 alternator cause an issue with that system?
04-18-2021, 07:32 AM
#1137
I have been using the kg3 145 alternator in my trans am for a few years now with no issues at all. I now want to upgrade the alt in my 2005 Tahoe as well but it has that charging system that stops charging when the battery is fully charged. Will the bigger kg3 alternator cause an issue with that system?
still unsure what a alt. upgrade for the 07 gtm 360 trailbalzer ( it also apears to stop charging past 12oclock when full it lowers to left of 12oclock maybe 11oclock I think 12 oclock is 12vdc) I do know this alt. k3g doesn't have the exciter wire like the f body. so I'm safe to say the k3g won't work on the L33 engine.
I only posted here because it's a great alt./charging thread created/maintained by pooter he doesn't have to he just does. also he has almost the same truck engine where he's proballey upgraded.
04-18-2021, 10:15 AM
#1138
TECH Senior Member
Most if not all Tahoes have only one battery. Usually only Diesel trucks have 2 batteries.
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04-19-2021, 11:44 AM
#1139
I have been using the kg3 145 alternator in my trans am for a few years now with no issues at all. I now want to upgrade the alt in my 2005 Tahoe as well but it has that charging system that stops charging when the battery is fully charged. Will the bigger kg3 alternator cause an issue with that system?
I didn't know about the tahoe charging sys. don't tahoes have 2 batteries?
still unsure what a alt. upgrade for the 07 gtm 360 trailbalzer ( it also apears to stop charging past 12oclock when full it lowers to left of 12oclock maybe 11oclock I think 12 oclock is 12vdc) I do know this alt. k3g doesn't have the exciter wire like the f body. so I'm safe to say the k3g won't work on the L33 engine.
I only posted here because it's a great alt./charging thread created/maintained by pooter he doesn't have to he just does. also he has almost the same truck engine where he's proballey upgraded.
still unsure what a alt. upgrade for the 07 gtm 360 trailbalzer ( it also apears to stop charging past 12oclock when full it lowers to left of 12oclock maybe 11oclock I think 12 oclock is 12vdc) I do know this alt. k3g doesn't have the exciter wire like the f body. so I'm safe to say the k3g won't work on the L33 engine.
I only posted here because it's a great alt./charging thread created/maintained by pooter he doesn't have to he just does. also he has almost the same truck engine where he's proballey upgraded.
Tahoes use one battery
The KG3 DOES use and exciter wire exactly like the f body. The exciter wire is the single wire (in the 4 pin connector), that connects to the L terminal on the 4 pin alternator. The F body and KG3 both use the L terminal for the exciter wire.
That's why you can plug a KG3 directly in and it work. If it wasn't the same it wouldn't work.
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1bdbrd (04-19-2021)
04-30-2021, 12:12 AM
#1140
Teching In
I don't know if this has been mentioned elsewhere, but I couldn't find anything so I'll post it here.
I switched to the truck alternator and, aside from running like an absolute champ, it also fixed my issue with a bouncing/dancing oil pressure gauge. I always figured it was the sending unit and had it on my to-do list to change, but after switching alternators it's finally evened out. Must have been a voltage issue... So if anyone else has been having trouble out if that gage, a truck alternator might be in order
I switched to the truck alternator and, aside from running like an absolute champ, it also fixed my issue with a bouncing/dancing oil pressure gauge. I always figured it was the sending unit and had it on my to-do list to change, but after switching alternators it's finally evened out. Must have been a voltage issue... So if anyone else has been having trouble out if that gage, a truck alternator might be in order
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