chrisfrost

iTrader: (8)

LilJayV10 Yes that is how it is set up . The lower the voltage under normal circumstances means there are more things drawing power from the system so the voltage regulator sends more juice to the alternators rotor via the brushes/slip rings. So when battery/system is say 12.6volts the voltage regulator puts maybe roughly 6 to 8volts to rotor. when there is huge draw(windshield wipers , headlights, turn signals, stereo with amplifier.........etc then battery voltage will be down around 9 or 10 which voltage regulator will put most or all volts available to rotor which should be charging max voltage and current . These #'s are not exact but are for illustration purposes to help describe the basic operation of an alternator

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

The disparity between actual battery voltage and what is shown in HPT doesn't bother me.

What bothers me is above 5-5.5k rpms it stops charging which is what it did with the stock style delphi alternator(not OEM stock)

Going with the truck alternator and doing the BIG 3 did not fix the problem.

I "think" it's the aftermarket regulator in the alternator and its shutting off.

Someone has to sell a good regulator that doesn't do this ****. From everything that I've read on here, the stock OEM alternators don't do this ****.

Going with an expensive *** aftermarket alternator may fix the problem, but I'm going to venture to guess it's going to have a better regulator in it, which is going to fix the actual problem.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (23)

If you have a normally healthy charging system with cable voltage drops in check, and you trick the alternator to charge at a higher voltage, then all you're going to accomplish is OVERCHARGING THE BATTERY! Don't do that.

The voltage regulator's job is to maintain system voltage to a pre-set target, and normally it is referencing voltage at the B+ terminal of the alternator. However, if a voltage is applied to the S-terminal, then the regulator will ignore the B+ terminal voltage and make decisions by what voltage is measured at the S-terminal. The purpose of the S-terminal is to charge the battery to correct voltage in electrical systems with large voltage losses between alternator and battery (long cable runs, diodes, etc.) In those scenarios the S-terminal is wired directly to battery post so that the alternator can "see around" voltage losses and regulate the battery charging voltage properly.

jasons69chevelle

What gauge is the wire you’re using from the alternator to battery, How’s the ground wires? if you’re still using the original factory wires have you looked for corrosion. The bolt on the back of the alternator to connector may have corrosion. Dissimilar metal will corrode. Strange that you have had so many issues with alternators. Especially if they are oem.

AudioSQ

I purchased the recommended 3351092 alternator and I can't seem to get that sucker to fit in and get through the sway bar and fan how.. any tips? If they were already suggested, my apologies. I did read a lot of the thread but not all 60 pages.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I thought the same thing but it will fit. I have Strano sway bars which are bigger than stock. It took a while for me to figure out the right way to "roll" the alternator past the sway bar.

It doesn't look like it will go in but it will.

AudioSQ

I finally got it in. I just had to get over damaging lines and just shove real hard. I think it was wheel side down, two mounting holes on the top, if the bumper is the top. I could be referring that wrong. Or still thoughts the power steering line, but I couldn't get that to move off of it.

I didn't have the energy to fight the belt on too so I went and bought one an inch bigger. Went on easy peasy. Headed out for a topless test drive now, but so far my lights aren't flickering any more.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

An inch is a lot. It is liklely to slip at high rpm so watch the volt meter and if it starts losing voltage in high rpm, or throws the belt off, try to old one you took off. Don't throw it out just in case

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Let me ask this question in a post where I'm not rambling for 5 paragraphs.

Does anyone sell that regulator that doesn't stop charging at 5k RPM like most parts store/rebuilt alternators do?

This would appear to fix the problems most people are having in here without spending a ridiculous amount of money.

RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

I have the ACD DR44G (334-2529A), in my bird. The gauge has always flopped around, I figured it was doing its shitty GM gauge dance, but usually held at the tick after 13, but just recently, it's been holding below13. Also, when it surges to the tick past 13, the lights dim and you can hear the loss in power (this is during idle).

I got the battery a little over a year ago and the alt around the same time.

Any ideas?

BTW, how the hell do you read these gauges? What are the values between the ticks?




.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

what does the batt and alt read with a meter on them ??

RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

Are you talking to me? If so, I'm going to get it tested tomorrow, but the surge is definitely noticeable.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

yes....simple test to show what the actual voltage is as compared to the dash gauge

QwkTrip

iTrader: (23)

Alternator doesn't know what is the rpm, it just regulates voltage and that's that. If voltage is dropping then maybe,

1. Electrical load exceeds alternator output. System voltage will immediately drop below battery OCV and appear to not be charging but it is actually at 100% output.

2. Engine ECM decided to shut off alternator.

3. Brush bounce induced by engine vibration. That would maybe seem speed related if the engine inputs excites the brush assembly around 5K rpm engine speed.

4. I don't know whether stock alternator has this feature, but some alternators will reduce output if temperature goes too high (exhaust header heat). Kinda like item 1 above but for different reason.

I have no problems with stock F-body alternator at 7500 rpm and 10% under drive pulley, but it's an old car with an engine swap ---> less electrical loads than a 4th gen F-body, and no ECM controlling alternator. Coincidence?

RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

I had the charging system tested (SEE PICS BELOW), at Advance Auto, and everything came back good. I don't get it. I hate dealing with electrical issues

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

My used ad244 has been charging well for a bunch of years probably over ten. thanks pooter for this thread. the stock 105 amps was not getting it done.

Except during extreme hot summers like when the car gets hot the alt. loses it’s efficiency

Like if I dare turn on AC at red light ideling charge drops down to around 8VDC close to orange section..

Not sure if this is normal in F-bodys that the AC puts that big a load on the charging sys.

An yes I have the big 3 w/ 0guage wire.

During the winter charges great. So I just stopped driving the TA in summer.



I don’t have a powerfull audio sys either just a 10” sub w/ 300watts amp a 4X75 watts amp.I know pooter says get used but now we’r talking old an well used.



I’d like to try a brand new ad244 maybe this from Rock auto



https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2412&jsn=264





RA exciter wire is kindof pricy $25. plus it has 4 wires?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=82392&jsn=268



If I remember correctly I purchased the exciter wire from e-bay an it only had one organe wire don’t realy want the extra wires or have to remove them from the plug just want it easy an plug in an go.

Please suggest a place for exciter wire. More importantly what do you Guys think about a new ad244?

I thought the ad244 was a 145amp alternator so why are they claiming 220amps for ad244 at amazon? or is this false advertisment?like could to much amps cause electrical damage?



I’m completely rebuilding my AC an want to enjoy the car this summer so I need a decent charging sys.

thanks

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I'm still waiting here for advice on the new alternator & the wire.anyone know about a new alternator?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

I am really picky about ALTS after so many remans have turned out to be chinese junk....having never used RA for their selection of ALTS I cant say yea or nay to anything they offer
I can recommend alternator man for a quality alt ....he can build you one for what ever amps you need
the exciter wire plug on F bods only uses the one wire as you know....if you have a plug with more wires just pull out what ever wire you dont need....or you can get a F bod specific plugs...i get mine off ebay
and its good you have already done the big 3

and also....if you ever see your P/S pump leaking ...fix it ASAP before it takes out the alt

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

I finally had a chance to install my Mechman 370 amp alt this weekend.....now before you say its overkill....the main reason I got it over their stock cased AD244s offerings is the fact that when you increase the Amps in a AD244 you use bigger windings....which makes the alt wider....I wanted a more stock width alt...the 370 amp alt despite the increase amps is pretty much stock width

now....this alt is a beast ! ....rock steady at a little over 14v no matter what i throw at it....now i have to finally put in a killer high amp stereo !

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

yeah I'd never waste my time & $ a reman anything. choose a used over reman but a ad244 from 03-04 gonna be real old.hopefully RA is in fact selling new they don't ask for a core.
got a link for alternator man? stock 145amps is fine for me.
it's so wierd when it get hot during summer the alt. loses it's effeciency even w/out AC w/ AC she drops real low like in the orange section I think that 8VDC. winter time she charges fine.

thanks for advice