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Call the dealership back and get the specifics on the bolt then go to Home Depot or a local parts store and pick something up that's close to the size slightly shorter but not longer or you will have to grind off some of the threads.
good suggestion I forget parts stores sells bolts.I called back a women answered I asked for bolt size specifics
M10x1.2x90
I also asked for the part# 11516360
I believe the women gave misinformation on bolt size when she said middle # as 1.2
When the net thinks this PNs middle # is 1.5.
Apparently this is a multi used bolt like it also holds the AC compressor.
I bet the threads and bolt head are the same as the alt. mount bolts just shorter.
not that I think a women doesn't know parts but I called back an the man answered he also said middle # was 1.2.
Update: I actuely had a alt. bracket bolt, found it in my bin of used bolts, it was mixed in w/ GM cylinder head bolts from head swaps.
I wouldn’t have threaded in the block w/out testing the thread size at home depot.I usaley stick bolts in a piece of cardboard w/ the location or just reinstall untill I have my new part.
I actuely reinstalled the old ad244 as it was bench tested as pass.
Same old **** different day, substandard charging there’s no telling how long I’ve been missing that bolt I think many years.weird that all that was holding the alt. was belt an 2 alt. mount bolts.
The power master is a tad better until I bump the radio which isn’t a powerfull sys at all speaker amp alpine 4x75rms w/ 4 expensive alpine speakers sub amp Rockford fosgate bridged 300watt rms 1 10” sub.
I think when the AC forced on the fans1 &2 was the major draw of amperage all this at idel which could be considered low by some at 590rpm. I have a smallish sleeper hi torque cam she doesn’t need to idel at 900rpm.
I’ll cruise around tomorrow for more feedback.
I must have accidently tightened the neg on the battery it has a stripe section so my battery may need a heical coil if that’s possible.thanks Guys for alt advice.
edit I hardely ever bump the radio extremely loud like in the quickie video this volume was more for demonstration purposes. when bumping extreme the radio turned itself off it's never done that before w/ either stock 105 amp or the ad244 but did w/ the powermaster 165amp.dam
it rained all day Sunday, should I mearsure voltage by extending the multi meter leads directly to battery?
or should I mearsure current (amps) by inserting MM into circuit attach MM at + of battery an + wire that goes to starter?
maybe this amp test.
edit I haven't driven her yet w/ new power master due to rain. plan to install new rear shocks new old shock decarbons today, you know the ones that keep bottoming out on every little bump dam.
power master has sean the videos this morning an want the alt. back. dam I'm getting good at installing the alt.
I will ask for
Powermaster High-Amp Alternators 48237 ad244 220 amp for the inconvenience. it's a $100. more than the cs130.
It is unbelievable to me that you can't buy a quality regulator to take care of this bullshit. I drove and logged my car last night and was angry how it stops charging around 5k RPM.
I have a 4.8 that likes to REV.
I put a smaller 3.2" Blower pulley on, and a LARGER Alternator pulley: I found 6 rib 2.7" pulley to fit the AD244 145 amp alternator ( 4 pin regulator ) Still charges 110 amps at hot idle speed 700 rpm. Plenty enough for heated seats, highbeams and maximum heat/defroster. Slowing down the alternator reduces parasitic drag, and It also eliminated the belt SCREACHing on high rpm upshifts.
of course the amperage available has many variables....the speed of the pulley ...the capability of the alt to provide a certain amount of amps at that speed...and the needed amps by the total circuit
when the alt cannot provide the needs...thats when the dips in voltage occurs naturally...like the stock C130 alt when you turn on the lights and full A/C at the same time
I dont mind going overkill in my choices of alts...as I know whatever is needed it will be provided
just like a ignition coil....the coil may be a 40k ...but if the needed spark is only 20k....only 20k will be used from the coil
and if there are problems in the ignition with the spark ...and the spark needed is 50k...the 40k coil will burn out
Plan to take a close look at the radio installation maybe some wires came loose.
Will also test voltage w/ multimeter and report back
Browsed y-tube alternatorman website saw that the 05 Saab 97x 5.3 has a ad244.
also noticed that the ad244 comes from gm as 130amp -145amp how do you know which is whichs output?
Wonder if I can steal the alt. off my 07 97x 5.3? I’ll take a close look at it to.
thanks
acording to rock auto the 05 saab97x 5.3 is the only ad244 I belive it's also referred to as the KG3.so it's appears I can't use the 07 saab 97x 5.3 alt.07 saab ACDELCO 3342747A
05 saab GM GENUINE 3212128 Reman. [img]file:///C:\Users\user\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtml1\01\clip_ image001.gif[/img]
145 AMP(KG3)
05 saab ACDELCO 3342529A Gold; Remanufactured Info
redid the alt. testing using multimeter alt. charges good at 13-14voltsdc untill the radio is turned on.did'nt do video due to extending MM leads.
I believe my kenwood radio was causing this huge power draw. now kenwood won't turn on after it turned itself off twice during each video.kenwood is getting power bc I see the burgular warning light blinking
Last few years the 2 piece head unit has had connectivity issues, first 5 years I'd always remove an hide in console so scum wouldn't break the window an run off w/ kenwood.
then I started observing connectivity issues so just left in all the time.maybe the brass connections need electronic cleaning.
I do have a replacment radio will report back after test drive w/ AC on even at long red lights that will be a pleasure. thanks Guys for advice
redid the alt. testing using multimeter alt. charges good at 13-14voltsdc untill the radio is turned on.did'nt do video due to extending MM leads.
I believe my kenwood radio was causing this huge power draw. now kenwood won't turn on after it turned itself off twice during each video.kenwood is getting power bc I see the burgular warning light blinking
Last few years the 2 piece head unit has had connectivity issues, first 5 years I'd always remove an hide in console so scum wouldn't break the window an run off w/ kenwood.
then I started observing connectivity issues so just left in all the time.maybe the brass connections need electronic cleaning.
I do have a replacment radio will report back after test drive w/ AC on even at long red lights that will be a pleasure. thanks Guys for advice
Chevy Silverados I believe 2000-2004 or maybe 2005 some have AD244 which some of are the 145 amp 1's . You can purchase a good used 1 from a used parts place for between 30-50$. They bolt right in just like the 105 amp originally in the Camaro but without the rear bracket which is not needed for either alternator on the Camaro . Have You read "The fix for My endless alternator failures"? in Gen3 external engine ?
sjsingle1 I ran a wire from the secondary of 1 of My relays thats hot with ignition on with oh with 300 ohms of resistors and a diode and connected it to the sense wire that comes from the dash module to the single wire in the alternator harness and with stereo pulling and a/c and wipers ...........etc it is still puting out 14.5 -15 volts. It definately is better than it was and I have the truck 145 amp unit that I just rebuilt it almost a year ago.
badmfkr sitting at a light in gear with accessories on ........etc it seems normal to Me that sometimes it will start discharging so I put it in neutral and rev it to 800 or 1000 and that squares it away just fine
b light in gear with accessories on ........etc it seems normal to Me that sometimes it will start discharging so I put it in .................................................. ..........................0 e
That is assuredly NOT NORMAL.
The stock alternator, at dead low, HOT idle speed of 550 RPM will output 110 amps.
Both of my Tahoes even WITH oversized alternator pulley ( to SLOW DOWN the alternator shaft speed ) will run front and rear heaters on full blower speed, high beams, fog lamps, and seat heaters on high at IDLE speed.
If you are not maintaining 14 volts under ALL operating conditions, then you have a defective alternator.
Had battery an charging sys. Tested at battery source they have a load tester.
Attachéd results, girl said the battery needs replaced however her printout didn’t highlight replace. She claimed 40% isn’t good. Charg sys. w/ new alt seams fine.
Cruised by interstate batterys warehouse they used a old fashioned analog load tester.
Results where battery putting out 800 cca at 9volts man said battery is fine also checked alt. w/ multi meter she’s charging 13.5vdc same as battery source tests.
So whats this battery at 40%? Should I take it back to Costco an request a new battery they don’t test batterys there they just take the customers word for it. Battery was purchased 4/21 so I’ll have to check to see if it’s still under warrenty.
for anyone having fbody issues and want the powermaster, you need this and this
and youre set. we have the std finish in stock and soon black finish as well.
no questions necessary really. buy, install, drive.
BUT you will also need to look at your max rpm you're running on your engine. Any stock alternator wont live at 6800 and up even a few times. Youll either need a better alternator or bigger pulley or under drive crank then up the idle rpm.
As much trouble as this has been....maybe a Mechman alt would have been worth it....jus sayin
Unless I'm misunderstanding the posts above, looks like a problem with the Kenwood was responsible for the excessive power draw, and now the battery health is also questionable. Not sure that any other new alternator would have performed any different if there is excessive draw due to a wiring issue. Powermaster is a quality product, and it looks like the testing showed it to be fine.
Your battery is ****.
Get a new good quality battery.
Stock 145 Amp alternator is more than sufficient, as I have explained extensively, they work just fine in Alaska, with all heated seats on, both heaters on HIGH, and all the headlights.
Stock 145 alternator is plenty.
IF you are winching, or thumping or just NEED to spend more money to feel good, you can easily obtain the LIMO spec alternator.
Same mounting, same bolts, same output stud position, basicly drop in fit EXCEPT you must upgrade the B+ charge wire to at least 2 gauge, and 2/0 would not be overkill.
The LIMO alternator is rated 253 amps HOT..... PM for price.
Some people have added a larger wire from the alternator to the battery to carry the higher amperage which is a good idea, I haven't yet, but it is on the list of things to do. I have put a little over 10 thousand miles on my car since doing this and have not had an issue. The only thing that could be bad about having the higher amperage is not having a wire rated high enough to carry it, so that is why it is good to replace the factory cable with a larger one, or add another cable in parrallel to the existing one. I also have a system in my car so I am pulling more amps than the regular load, and still not a single problem.
This is a great thread. We are about to go to the junk yard and see what we can find. Should we also upgrade the wire from the battery to the starter, or just the one on from the alternator to the battery?
07-27-2023, 03:47 PM
