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The fix for my endless alternator failure's

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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #121  
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Ya know, I read it previously, but sometimes we need like a thread summary for the tech part -- re-reading a bazillion posts is kinda tiring. ;-)


Originally Posted by crainholio
If the answer to that question isn't clear after 6 pages of this discussion, have somebody else read it for you.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 09:29 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by libertyforall1776
Ya know, I read it previously, but sometimes we need like a thread summary for the tech part
Are you volunteering to write thread summaries, or just whining?

Originally Posted by libertyforall1776
-- re-reading a bazillion posts is kinda tiring. ;-)
So is answering repetitive questions.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 10:42 AM
  #123  
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I think I will give this a try, Will a 2004 Chevy Tahoe one work as well?
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 07:07 PM
  #124  
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I just got one off of an 04 tahoe too. Going to install it now will let you know how it goes. but given that it is a kg3 optioned four pin I would say it will
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 07:07 PM
  #125  
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Here's what bad bearings in an alternator sound like... it's the high pitch sound.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFRVsD8XXkI

I have my 145amp truck alternator sitting on my work bench waiting for me to install it this week sometime along with an ATI harmonic damper.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 10:13 PM
  #126  
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I pickup a 04 tahoe and installed so far so good. Hope it will last.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 11:32 PM
  #127  
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guys Im getting a little confused with re-wiring this please go to my thread and help me out

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...need-help.html
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #128  
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Ooops I missed quite a few posts in this thread


Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Got the stock one back in, and started it up and all is fine. At this point, I contacted the ebay seller and am requesting an exchange and they pay for shipping of the bad one back to them. I'll give them one more chance and then I'll request a refund.
That sucks man, I see you posted that you have another one, let us know how that one works for you.

Originally Posted by Paul Bell
So you're gonna be an expert at changing alternators!

Question (far all): When I did mine, I also replaced the AC compressor. I yanked out the sway bar as it seemed to be in the way of both items. Can the alternator be replaced with the sway bar in place?
I didn't think it would fit between the fans and sway bar but with a few choice words and some pushing it went.

Originally Posted by sjsingle1
seems even a crappy alt can test good........thats why so many go thru remans so quick
Yup, as posted guys dont believe the parts guy that says its good, I repeatedly told the guy testing mine it works fine for around 20 or so minutes then it gets hot then voltage falls off, so what does he do, spins it for 10 seconds cold and says "it works fine"..... Oh I wish stupid was more painful...

Originally Posted by crainholio
If the answer to that question isn't clear after 6 pages of this discussion, have somebody else read it for you.
LOL

Originally Posted by The Alchemist
What do you do with a dead alternator? The one I bought off ebay was dead upon arrival, and contacted the seller (parts-yard) and they are sending another unit but told me to keep the other one as iit useless to them. So is there a way to figure out what's wrong with it, and to fix it?
As posted earlier I would take it and have it rebuilt, its pretty cheap and then you have a backup alternator, or an alternator you can sell to recoop what you have spent


Originally Posted by cajunss
I pickup a 04 tahoe and installed so far so good. Hope it will last.
Good to hear let us know if you have any issues.




Note: Mine is still going strong, not one issue since I installed this alternator
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 11:38 PM
  #129  
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i always find it easier to lower the sway bar to get the alt in.........just me
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:23 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
i always find it easier to lower the sway bar to get the alt in.........just me
That's what I did alot easier.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:25 AM
  #131  
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00pooterSS what voltage you get while in drive and stoped with AC on?
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #132  
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I got my replacement alternator in yesterday and all is good. Voltage stays put at 13.5 volts for 99% of the time.

Anyone local to me wants a truck alternator that needs to be rebuilt/fixed, it's free to a good home. I'm in PA about an hour north of Philly.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 11:37 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I got my replacement alternator in yesterday and all is good. Voltage stays put at 13.5 volts for 99% of the time.

Anyone local to me wants a truck alternator that needs to be rebuilt/fixed, it's free to a good home. I'm in PA about an hour north of Philly.


I'm getting around 13.2 to 13.5 when both fans on,in drive at a stop. Which is great compared to before I was at 12.4 to 12.8. Only time I got over 13 is when moving or in park.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 12:03 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by cajunss
00pooterSS what voltage you get while in drive and stoped with AC on?
After warmed up it shows right at 13 on the guage in the car, it is closer to 13.5 or so cold. If its really hot, which it is every day here in dallas, and I have the system up really loud at a light then it gets to like 12.9 on the guage. I need to check it with a voltmeter to see if that is accurate, but with the parts store alternators it ALWAYS dropped below 13 within about 15-20 minutes and that was even with everything off. I can have the system, A/C, headlights and everything on at idle and still be at 13 at night.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 12:16 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
i always find it easier to lower the sway bar to get the alt in.........just me
Originally Posted by cajunss
That's what I did alot easier.
to each their own, I dont mess with the sway bar because I dont have to, and the more things I unbolt the longer it takes to finish the job, it is in the way somewhat but you can wrestle either alternator between the fans and sway bar in no time, so it seems like a waste of time to me. Besides I have unbolted my sway bar before with the wheels hanging and it was a PITA to the the holes lined up for the bolts. But I spent many years as a Tech and whatever process you go through to get the job done quickest is the route you take otherwise you lose pay, so that comes into play when I work on my car too.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 02:03 PM
  #136  
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my car has been geting low voltage.
in this heat with the a/c on it will get in the the red low side and stay there and thats with out my system being played.
it happens with the car siting at idle like waiting for my kid in the school line(20min) then once i start driving again it starts to go back up.
i had the battery tested(advance platinum) and also the alternator(both on the car with there tester) and it came up fine but im going to get it checked again.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 02:22 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
After warmed up it shows right at 13 on the guage in the car, it is closer to 13.5 or so cold. If its really hot, which it is every day here in dallas, and I have the system up really loud at a light then it gets to like 12.9 on the guage. I need to check it with a voltmeter to see if that is accurate, but with the parts store alternators it ALWAYS dropped below 13 within about 15-20 minutes and that was even with everything off. I can have the system, A/C, headlights and everything on at idle and still be at 13 at night.
I have a scangauge hooked up works really well. Also on the sway bar I only drop the driver side I also have the car on ramps so the tire does not drop. For some reason if I don't I have to really fight it going back in and that was with the regular Alternator. Thanks for the info on this! I been replacing Alternators seems like once a year LOL even using the ACdelcos. I think the small one just cannot keep up. Wish it was mounted on top of the engine like my v6.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 08:37 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by shaun
my car has been geting low voltage.
in this heat with the a/c on it will get in the the red low side and stay there and thats with out my system being played.
it happens with the car siting at idle like waiting for my kid in the school line(20min) then once i start driving again it starts to go back up.
i had the battery tested(advance platinum) and also the alternator(both on the car with there tester) and it came up fine but im going to get it checked again.
Needs an alternator. No point in getting it tested, you already had it tested and they told you its good and its obviously not. When your voltage drops like that and you have to rev it up to charge it, its the alternator. Seen it more times than I could ever begin to count.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 11:10 PM
  #139  
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Does anybody has any side to side pics for comparison between the two alternators?
thanks
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 08:06 PM
  #140  
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They looks pretty much the same, sorry I did not take any pics of mine. I just got done swapping them, I got an 03 145 amp for $60 from the local yard. Now I make 14v at idle. I wasn't killing alternators, but mine had a bad bearing so I figured why not upgrade for $60 instead of buy a reman stock POS for $160.
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