If you're untuned, you can bolt one on and maybe do OK.
But SLP put out two versions with slightly different curves.

"Two men say they're Jesus, one of them must be wrong"

SLP likes to pretend the cal curve is close enough to stock.
Or better. But they won't give you any information to work
with. And that's the beef; you can get the same piece from
Delphi, minus the resistor, hype and price tag, and have a
known cal to start from.

I've had one, and had fun hacking it up, but run an eBay
Delphi MAF.

 

Lol. Well said. I also run a Delphi MAF with the screen still intact.

 

The only thing about the SLP 85mm MAF is that underneath that fancy SLP sticker is a sticker that says DELPHI. I can get you an 85mm MAF for 110 shipped. The same exact thing everyone paid 200 for.

 

ok, so once again you're just saying that it is harder to tune with because you dont know what the slp maf is calibrated at and the stock delphi is. so once again i agree with the guy on the first page, thats why i pay a tuner so he better know what he's doing, and if you've tuned with one you've tuned with em all pretty much stock or not. and to others, i didnt put this thread up for ppl to put their .2 cents in and just say ya i agree, this was meant for a no bs why do ppl say these maf's are garbage. so if you dont have any input as to why they are good or bad with your own personal experience, dont post. there are so many people out here in our tuning world that are just so easily manipulated into thinking what others think just because something didnt work for that other person. that they have a false sense of belief that that one part that didnt work for that other person is and always will be junk but may be the perfect part for them but has this belief that it is junk so wont find out. some parts are good for ppl looking for what it has to offer and may not work for others.

 

Nobody has any other input

 

ok so for anybody else out there that wants to know more about these slp maf's and why everybody keeps talking trash about them and wondering why, thats why i out this thread up. but nobody has been giving any real input as to why they are garbage or at least none that can argue against it sufficiently;
so i did some research last night on my own through google to answer this question and here is what i came up with:

now what i am about to say has been derived from tuning forums for ls1gto.com, efilive.com, and some others that i cant remember right now and this what i compiled together from these discussions. before there was any real good tuning software out in the world of tuning for ls1's or anybody that knew how to tune these computers companies like slp "tweaked" little things here and there that can be bolted on to the engine hence "bolt-ons" to trick the computer to run a different afr map in a sense. so these slp maf's which are just delphi 85mm truck maf's had resistor installed in the heating elements in the maf that read the in-coming airflow. so instead of the maf telling the computer that there is 'x' (real time persay) amount of air going into the engine, it would tell it there is 'y' (less) amount of air going into the engine. so since the factory tuned computer came tuned to run rich, these maf's were telling the computer there is less air and the computer trimed the fuel curve to compensate for this less amount of airflow so there for it wouldnt run rich anymore even though in real time the engine was still getting the regular amount of air you would say.

so now even though you have this slp maf it is ok to run this if you are running just a bolt on car with NO tune, but you virtually cannot tune with this maf because it is quite litterally un-tuneable with that reistor on there or it will be a pain in the ***, there is alot of steps that has to be done during the tune to compensate for the maf telling the computer to run leaner. so it would be wise and much much easier to just get a 85mm truck maf or 04 Z06 85mm maf and tune with that because those maf's are pretty much telling the computer there is real time amount of air going into the engine.

so knowing this now i am going to be switching out my slp maf for a stock 85mm truck or Z06 maf so if anybody has one that they are selling let me know and what it will take to run one of these mafs on my 01 tuned ls1. also knowing this information i realized what this maf is doing to my tuned computer and im glad i caught this before damaging my engine because my computer is already tuned to a 78mm maf and in tuned to run optimally. no this maf is telling the computer to trim fuel and it is seriously leaning out my afr's. i wish i could put this in a MAF section or in a sticky for everyone to read cuz i feel this is some good info to know about your pcm and all the sensors that go into making the pcm work the way it does.

so now its not about liking the maf or not, it comes down to using it for one situation and not the next. and again these are for virtually for a BOLT ON CAR AND NOT A TUNED CAR!!!!! if you're gunna get your pcm tuned just use a 78mm or stock 85mm.

 

My car has one and IS TUNED with tsp 5.3 heads, ported fast 90/90, and 232/238 6xx 6xx 111 cam...Been that way for years

 

Well that's cool I just said that it would be a pain in the *** to tune and a stock 85 would be a whole lot easier

 

Why not remove the resistor from the Slp and you will pretty much have a Gm 85mm maf?

 

becuase the wires inside the sensor housing are very fragile, you're not even supposed to touch the wires becuase the oils on your hands can throw off the readings that the sensor tells the computer. so you cant just cut the resistor out cuz if you touch the wires with cutters you could risk damaging the sensor, so you have to de-solder the resistor. soldering something together is easy, its de-soldering that gets tricky. you have de-solder the resistor that links the two wires inside the housing together without melting the wires themselves and in turn damageing the sensor. now like some smartass up top said that "well my car is tuned with one and it works fine", yes it can be done. the thing is that if a tuner hasnt ever tuned with one then it is impossible. what has to happen is the tuner has to know what a base tune is for an 85mm maf, then read what the slp maf is telling the computer with the resistor, and compensate all the maf tables with the difference between the two so that basically the slp maf is still doing what its doing but the computer is treating the readings as a stock/modified maf table. and if you remember what i said above, the resistor tricks the computer to "think" that there is less air incoming into the engine and trims fuel back but in real time there is "X" amount of entering the engine and since the computer is trimming fuel it gets better effeciency so it isnt running rich.

 

And to think, 30 replies to a question that was solved with a google search.

 

The velocity that counts, is at the head / valve, and
determined by that and the manifold runner. The TB
orifice dumps into the big plenum and velocity there,
helps nothing particularly. You want the plenum at
atmospheric pressure meaning you do not want to
trade mass flow for velocity, before that point.

 

You're not removing the bridge elements that came from
Delphi. You're removing a 5-cent regular old resistor that
SLP soldered on there later. Takes two minutes and a
pair of tweezers and a soldering iron. Unless you have
Parkinson's or something. Or lack skill big time, in which
case leave it alone.

When you do that, it is what it originally was. A Delphi
truck MAF.

I've done it and run it. I've replaced the resistor with
a trimpot and played with that. And in the end a known
piece is just easier to deal with, and way cheaper if you
skip the lesson.

 

i have one and it was kinda-tuned before but recently i had my car re-tuned by a different tuner and he got the SLP MAF dialed in.

 

Physics doesn't work that way. Remember that boost is a measurement of restriction. You can only force so much air through a given diameter before you have to resort to forced induction to push more air through.

Your hose analogy is off; in that case, you trade raw volumetric flow for increased velocity at the nozzle, ergo, 100 gal/min at 10psi, or 60gal/min at 80psi (example numbers, not calculated ones). Take two hoses getting the same amount of water pressure; leave one open at the end and stick it in a bucket, then stick a spray nozzle on the other and stick it in another bucket. See which one fills up first. It won't be the one with restricted flow.

 

interesting, never thought of it like that.

 

and to think that we are all here to learn something and become more familiar with our cars and how to make them better and there are still arrogant ******** that are counter productive to this forum until they themselves get stumped on something and they go seeking help and expect it. oh and also, the google search happened when i wasnt getting the answers i was looking for because jack off's such as your self weren't contributing to the solution.

 

Wow, who put sand in your vagisil?

And please, don't feed the "we are all here to learn" nonsense. Everything in this thread has already been covered in the vast number of similar threads under the same basic question on this site already. The fact that you googled your own question and found the answer only shows that a lot of time and energy could have been saved by the self same google search as opposed to you getting crabby because no one would answer your question for you. This isn't a case of the information not being out there, or being hard to find. It is a case of someone just wanting others to do the work for them.

I mean seriously, from 6/28 to 7/18 to learn what basically was a 10 or 15 minute google search?

How bout a motor mount question next?

 

I have the slp MAF and I removed the resistor it was a 2 min job then tuned after. I did a seach on this web site and got all the info i need. I would just buy the cheeper one and call it day. If you have you slp one just remove the resistor. look up remove resistor on the SLP maf.

 

i got a slp maf recently and the tuner is having a hard time with it below 2500 , what can he do to get it to run right ???

i know old post and also i should have to talk to the tuner about how to do what hes supposed to be doing .